The coin holder is an extremely convenient device for those who do not like to carry a trifle in a wallet, and in its pocket it crumbles and interferes.
I used this coin holder for many years and now it's time to make a new one, at the same time and tell how to make it. This can be a great little gift.

Maybe someone will be tempted by the simplicity and interest of this and decide to make this coin holder with the child. It really is not at all difficult to manufacture and very comfortable to wear! Try it and you will succeed! I wish you success)

Step 1: Materials and Tools

The materials are pretty simple. You will need:

a piece of leather, 1.5-2 mm thick
threads
4 sets of buttons
Tokonole or Tragacanth gum (optional)
edge paint (optional)

More tools will be needed, but many can be replaced with available tools) So, you will need:

paper template
ruler
awl
sharp knife
Creaser or marking compass(optional)
scissors
line puncher
round puncher
button installation kit
hammer
angle cutter (optional)
round punch d = 20mm (optional)
press (optional)
2 needles
slicker
edge brush
lighter

Step 2: Template Cutting

Print one of the attached templates. They are the same, but they have a different amount of detail.

For example, if you do not have a creaser, then you should print the template for which the seam line is already marked (3.pdf).

On each version of the template there is a square with a side of 50 mm, by which you can determine whether the scale has changed when printing. If the change is not very strong, then you need not print again, everything will ok like that)))

Next, we cut out 2 squares-patterns on the ruler. If you do not have a corner cutter and a 20mm round punch, then you can immediately cut along a thick line.

Step 3: Leather Preparation

We select a piece of skin without damage sufficient to fit both of our templates on it with some margin and cut this piece with a knife or scissors.

Step 4: Back Side Processing (optional, But Highly Recommended)

Processing the back is a procedure that many neglect.

Nevertheless, I advise you to smooth out the reverse side as much as possible, since as a result the coins will slide better, the skin will become denser and last longer, and of course it will look much more attractive.

The process itself is quite simple.

apply Tokonole (or tragacanth) on the back of the skin, I do it with my finger))))
gently polish with a slicker
let dry (at this time you can have a cup of tea)

Step 5: Marking

We apply our templates on the front side of the leather and mark with an awl.

There are several possible options:

If you made square blanks, then the corners of the templates, the holes for the buttons, the edges of the rounded holes in the middle of the sides are marked with an awl. I did just that and you can see the picture
If you made workpieces with curved cuts already cut, then the holes for the buttons are marked, and the contour is circled with an awl around the perimeter. If you have seam markings on the template, then it is also worth it to immediately push right through the paper

Step 6: Leather Cutting

Carefully connect the angle marks (if you used the first option at the last step) and cut out our blanks.

For those who cut immediately with curves, the following 2 steps are irrelevant.

If you already have a marking of the seam, then feel free to skip and not even 2, but all 3 steps)))

Step 7: Circle Cutting

To cut off the circles on the centers of the sides, I use a press and a 20mm round puncher.

Remember, since we do not carve the entire circumference as a whole - place leather scraps so that the puncher is upright and does not roll.

Step 8: Trimming Corners

To trim the corners, I use a corner cutter with a radius of 15mm and a hammer. With this approach, it’s even difficult to describe what exactly needs to be done))) Put the cutter on the corner, as straight as possible, and hammer it ... That's the whole process.

Instead of a cutter, you can use any round object, such as a coin. This item is used as a template, draw a line of future rounding with an awl and cut with a knife or scissors.

Step 9: Seam Marking

If you do not have a creaser, then at this step you can use a marking compass.

On a creaser, the protrusion is longer on one side than on the other. A long protrusion slides along the edge of the workpiece, clinging to it as much as possible, while a short protrusion leaves a groove on the skin surface - a marking under the seam.

Step 10: Holes for Buttons

Round punchers come in very different shapes and sizes. It is very convenient to use a revolving puncher in this case, since the holes on are quite close to the edge.

If this is not there, the usual one will do, except that as usual you will have to hammer with a hammer, and the revolver from such handling may also deteriorate)))

Step 11: Seam Punching

I use the so-called French line punchers, but you can safely use any that you have.

The main thing when working with line punchers is to make sure that all the teeth stand on the seam line. Take care of the tool, do not hit the punchers excessively hard and put something dense, but soft under the punched area. For this purpose I use a small silicone tile 15 mm thick.

Step 12: Painting Edge (optional)

Whether or not to paint the edge is your business, but I never liked the visually unfinished stuff.

Edge paint is very convenient to apply with metal roller brushes (yes, an incomprehensible thing in the photo is a brush). Although cotton buds or a simple round awl can do it.

Caution should be done carefully, since it will be very difficult to remove such a paint from the front of the leather, especially after drying.

Step 13: Insert the Thread Into the Needle

When sewing, we need to insert one thread into 2 needles.

Everything seems to be not complicated ...

In general, in order to not have to constantly keep the folded edge of the thread, the needle is rigidly fixed at the end of the thread.

Everything is visible in the photographs, but I will try to describe it, just in case.

insert the thread into the needle
at a distance of 5-7 cm from the edge of the thread we pierce it with a needle
pierce again, but now at a distance of 3-4 cm from the edge
pull strongly at the short end (but not so that the whole thread slips)))
repeat on the other side and with the second needle

Step 14: Hand Seam

There is nothing complicated in sewing with two needles at once. It is important to practice a bit and clearly follow the same sequence of actions throughout the seam.

For clarity, I took 2 threads of different colors and tied them into one, and used light skin to make it better visible.

I will describe to you my sewing sequence from left to right:

insert and fully stretch the thread on the front side
insert the second needle into the same hole on the reverse side so that the thread is already above the thread. In this case, the loop formed by the thread glides over the already stretched thread, as can be clearly seen in the photographs from the back.
firmly pull on both threads at once, but without excessive force
repeat

When you tried a little, you can start sewing our blanks.

Step 15: Sewing the Blanks

Each blank is sewed separately.

To have enough thread, it is recommended to take the thread 4 times longer than the length of the seam.

If you sew with synthetic threads, like me, then at the end of the seam we don’t do knots, we just cut them at a distance of about 5 mm from the workpiece.

Step 16: Thread Fastening

Gently ignite the ends of the thread and melt them, so the thread will be fixed.

Step 17: Buttons Installation

Depending on which kit you have for installing the buttons, the process can take place in different ways. For generally it will be easier to go to some workshop, where the buttons and put)

Look carefully at the photos to insert the buttons correctly.