DIY Clamping Panel

In this Instructable, I'll show you how to build a simple clamping panel that is incredibly functional and versatile. It can take the place of several clamps in your shop!

By following these steps, you'll have a space-efficient clamping panel that you can use whenever you need to glue up several boads.

Supplies

• Sheet of melamine (even a quarter sheet will work)
• 12" length of dowel (3/8" diameter or larger)
• Drill bit matching the size of the dowel
• Scrap pieces of wood (preferably plywood)
• Several 1-1/4" screws

Step 1: Creating the Panel Base

Melamine is the ideal material for the base due to its resistance to glue bonding to it. This makes cleanup easier.

Start by considering the maximum length and width of the wood projects you want to glue up, then add 5 inches to the width. You can cut the material however you like; I used a table saw. Regardless of what cutting tool you use (such as a circular saw or jigsaw), to reduce chip-out, attach blue tape to the melamine surface before cutting.

Step 2: Adding the Grid of Holes

The grid of holes is what makes this clamping panel so versatile. Add some painters tape to the melamine and mark rows of holes on the melamine that will accommodate the dowels. I recommend spacing the rows 2-3 inches apart.

Drill the holes with your drill bit. In this case, you want a semi-snug fit between the drilled hole and the dowel; you don't want it too loose. Once you've completed the drilling, remove the tape.

Step 3: Edge Treatment (Optional)

To protect the melamine edges from crumbling, you can optionally route small roundovers or chamfers on both sides of the holes. Be careful not to rout too deeply though, as it's important to retain sufficient vertical surface area for the dowels to bear against.

Step 4: Mounting the Cleat

Attach the cleat to the base using the 1-1/4" screws (if you're using 3/4" material for the cleat).

Ensure that the edge of the cleat facing the holes is as straight as possible. For optimal pressure distribution, use a piece of plywood or wood that is at least three-quarters of an inch thick.

Step 5: Creating the Wedges

Take another piece of scrap wood and mark a diagonal line. I like to do this by measuring 1/2" from one edge, then rotating the scrap and marking 1/2" from the other edge.

Connect the marked lines and cut the piece in half using a hand saw, bandsaw, or another cutting tool. The exact angle of the cut is not crucial for this step.

Step 6: Cutting Dowels

Cut 3 or 4 dowels to approximately 2 inches in length. Chamfer the ends of the dowels to make it easier to align them in the holes.

Step 7: Use the Clamp

Place your workpieces into the clamping panel, resting them against the cleat. Look for a row of holes that can accommodate a scrap piece of wood and the wedges between the dowels and the panel. This additional piece of scrap wood helps spread the clamping force and protects the workpiece's edges from the wedges.

Apply glue to the seams of your workpieces, then position the scrap piece of wood and wedges, and gently tap the wedges to secure the clamp.

Check for a uniform bead of squeeze-out, adjusting the wedges as necessary. Allow the glue-up to dry horizontally, and you're done!