Drawer Organizer Using Quick Connectors! (Silverware, Utensil, or Junk)

Do you have dead space in your kitchen drawers? Or a generic silverware divider that doesn't really fit your needs? Maybe you need an excavation permit to find items in your Utensil drawer?

Look no further! For a silverware, utensil, or junk drawer you can customize a simple and quick solution that won't break the bank. (Less than $20 for a basic utensil drawer!)

This instructable shows how to quickly and simply organize a drawer and make drawer dividers using 1/4" hobby boards and connectors. In the past I've tried using boards with only glue to hold them together, but they inevitably come apart. It is also tricky to glue the edges. This configuration is similar, but uses 3D printed connectors to make it easy to install and allows the dividers to hold together much stronger.

You can print your own connectors or if you don't have a 3D printer, I have some 3D Printed sets available on an Etsy shop: TaylorMadeCustom3D

Supplies

• 1/4" hobby boards (6-12 feet depending on drawer size and how many sections)
• Measuring Tape or Ruler
• Saw (miter or hand)
• 3D printed connectors**

**If you don't have a 3D printer, I have 3D Printed sets available for sale on my Etsy shop: TaylorMadeCustom3D

Glue is optional! In fact, with a well-measured fit these hold so well I don't even use glue!

1/4 inch boards can be found at a local hardware store typically in 2 foot or 4 foot lengths. Depending on your drawer you can choose boards that are 2, 3, or 4 inches high (I use 2" for this silverware drawer and 3" for utensil and other drawers). Here is a link to the Home Depot boards I used here: 0.25" x 2" x 4' boards.

Step 1: Remove and Assess Your Drawer

Remove the drawer by pulling it out and typically lifting the front end up so the back wheels can come out of the track. Next, remove all items and throw away or donate items you don't need or have too many of! A little spring cleaning never hurts! :)

Step 2: Arrange New Layout in the Drawer

Organize items and arrange them in the drawer putting least used items in the back.

Note: For silverware or other items that stack, simply choose a single item to hold the space for that section. You do not have to try to stack every item in the drawer, just pick the widest/longest of the group. Remember, once you are done the divider sections will help stacks of items to not fall over.

Step 3: Plan Where Dividers Will Go and Measure

Sketch on a piece of paper the layout of the drawer and identify where lines (which will be your dividers) would separate each group of items. Use a measuring tape or ruler to measure** each divider line and note this on your paper.

**Note: Do not forget that the lines are boards that are 1/4" thick themselves! So make sure your math adds up!

Step 4: Determine Number and Type of Connectors

I designed the 3D Print Connectors to have 1/4" grooves for the boards, along with small barbs that hold to the wood and prevent them from coming off.

• Cross Joint - Used when two dividers intersect at the same point.
• T Joint - Used when one divider butts up against the side of another.
• Corner Joint - Used for corners of the drawer.
• End Cap - Used on the edges of dividers against a wall as needed to make a snug fit in the drawer.

Determine how many Cross Joints, T Joints, Corner Joints, and End Caps you need based on your sketch. Connectors only need to be used on the top of the boards as long as the dividers fit snug in the drawer. However, if you want to put connectors on top and bottom of each joint, multiply your numbers by 2.

Step 5: Buy or 3D Print the Connectors

***No 3D printer? No problem! I have 3D Printed sets available on my Etsy shop: TaylorMadeCustom3D

Due to variations of 3D print filament and printer tolerances first 3D print the Test Connectors.STL file to determine if they print well with your printer for a snug fit on your boards. The connectors shouldn't be too tight that they are bending out, but also not too loose. Because of the way they are designed there is a little bard that should groove the board when you push it onto the board, holding it so it does not slip out. You will want to push down on a hard surface to fit them on the boards. If the fit is too tight, try scaling the Test STL file in your slicing software up to 103-105% and try again. If too lose, try scaling down to 95-97% until you get a good fit. Then make sure to scale similarly from the TinkerCAD STLs for how many you need.

Print Settings:

• 0.3 layer height
• 100% infill

Step 6: Cut the Boards to the Correct Lengths

Using a saw, cut the boards to your measurements. Often it is best to cut outside or wall boards first, then remeasure and cut inner boards last. Sand the ends where your cuts were, and optionally stain the boards.

Step 7: Dry Fit Boards in the Drawer

Next, prepare your boards inside the drawer to ensure they fit up against each other well. If too tight, trim edges to fit.

Step 8: (Optional) Stain or Finish Wood

I live in a really dry climate and haven’t had any issues with water damage the last 2 years I’ve been using these. But if you live in a wet or very humid climate and have wet silverware constantly going into the drawer you may want to stain or finish the wood to prevent water damage.

Step 9: Add Connectors to Intersections

Note: Before adding connectors you can use wood glue or Elmer's glue on the edge of the boards that butt up against each other for an even stronger fit.

Use the connectors to connect each intersection top. Make sure to firmly push down on all sides of the connectors to get them all the way on and ensure they won't slip. Sometimes it is easier to remove the boards and add the connectors on a hard surface. After connectors are on, you may want to squeeze the sides of the connectors so the barbs bite into the wood better.

As shown in the pictures, if intersections are too close to each other, you may need to use a saw to cut a T or Cross connector so both intersections work. (Or better yet, try using TinkerCad to create just the 3D Printed piece you need!!)

Step 10: (Optional) Add Drawer Liner Paper or a Bottom Board

If you want an even cleaner look, cut out drawer liner paper to lay down inside the drawer. Or cut a piece of plywood to the drawer size and glue the bottom of the assembled dividers to the board.

Step 11: Insert Complete Drawer Dividers

Once all the connectors are on, insert completed dividers back into the drawer and ensure each section is the right size to appropriately hold the items needed. Optionally use the end caps or other connectors to make a tighter fit to the sides of drawer where needed by extending them past the board edge (as shown in the picture).

Step 12: All Done! Some Finished Examples

For ideas, here are a few drawers organized by me along with some by others who have posted picture reviews on the Etsy shop. Each is a custom configuration and simple to create. Post a picture and let me know how yours turn out!