Introduction: Arduino Prototyping Shield on the Cheap
Breadboards are very handy, but sometimes I just want to connect one IC or some LEDs and resistors to the controller.
My simple solution was to canibalize a cheap Breadboard to get two expandable PrototypingShields with some additional features.
What I used:
Breadboard (~3$)
2 Pieces of Veroboard (<1$)
28 PinHeader (<1$)
28 femaleConnectors (<1$)
2 Leds
1Switch
some Resistors...
and some epoxy to get it smooth and fixed
Tools:
Soldering iron
Dremel
pliers
a knife
My simple solution was to canibalize a cheap Breadboard to get two expandable PrototypingShields with some additional features.
What I used:
Breadboard (~3$)
2 Pieces of Veroboard (<1$)
28 PinHeader (<1$)
28 femaleConnectors (<1$)
2 Leds
1Switch
some Resistors...
and some epoxy to get it smooth and fixed
Tools:
Soldering iron
Dremel
pliers
a knife
Step 1: Soldering the Shield
Sadly the ArduinoBoard doesn't align with the standard 0.1" spacing, so it's a little tricky to get the Shield smoothly into the Arduino connectors.
Firstly I cutted the right number of pinheaders.
After putting them into the Arduino connectors, I saw the difference to my 0.1" spaced veroboard.
I bent the headers a little bit as you can see in the second picture.
Now the pins are ready to solder.
As you can see in Pic4 I cutted the veroboard with one hole space to the border, to solder the female connectors later.
Firstly I cutted the right number of pinheaders.
After putting them into the Arduino connectors, I saw the difference to my 0.1" spaced veroboard.
I bent the headers a little bit as you can see in the second picture.
Now the pins are ready to solder.
As you can see in Pic4 I cutted the veroboard with one hole space to the border, to solder the female connectors later.
Step 2: Cut the Breadboard
Next step was to cut the breadboard.
Very stinky, but effective with a Dremel on 10.000rpm :)
I removed one row of the power connectors for the right size.
It fits just perfect!
I also made a little cut on the veroboard to disconnect the pins.
Very stinky, but effective with a Dremel on 10.000rpm :)
I removed one row of the power connectors for the right size.
It fits just perfect!
I also made a little cut on the veroboard to disconnect the pins.
Step 3: Isolate and Glue the Breadboard
I used a thin coat of 5min epoxy to isolate the bottom side of the breadboard.
After 5 minutes I did the same again and glued the breadboard to the veroboard.
After 5 minutes I did the same again and glued the breadboard to the veroboard.
Step 4: Adding Some Features
I wanted to have the same nice features as the Arduino has.
- Led as power indicator
- Led connected to Pin13 for debugging
- Resetswitch
The Leds are connected through a resistor to +5V and Pin13
The ResetButton is connected to Gnd and the ResetPin
I used a 820ohm resistor for small power consumption and right brightness.
I = U/R = 5V/820ohm = 6mA
I used some epoxy to cover the leds, hold the button and give the board a smooth surface.
That's it.
postscript:
Hey Mauseju... if you read this, you'll soon be the owner of the second board I just made for you ;-))
- Led as power indicator
- Led connected to Pin13 for debugging
- Resetswitch
The Leds are connected through a resistor to +5V and Pin13
The ResetButton is connected to Gnd and the ResetPin
I used a 820ohm resistor for small power consumption and right brightness.
I = U/R = 5V/820ohm = 6mA
I used some epoxy to cover the leds, hold the button and give the board a smooth surface.
That's it.
postscript:
Hey Mauseju... if you read this, you'll soon be the owner of the second board I just made for you ;-))