Introduction: LED TV LIGHT
MAJOR UPDATE:
Hey Guys!
A lot of things have changed since I began my project and I didn't expect so many ideas, comments and improvements.
Because it is much easier to build an Ambilight than in my instruction, I decided to update my instructable. First of all, there are, of course, many other solutions out there. Checkout this link, it's easy and really cool:
http://hackaday.com/2011/10/05/adalight-ladyadas-ambilight/
THIS instructable is not up to date. If you want to find out about my new approach of building a 30 channel ambilight just search for my other instructable dealing with this topic or click this link:
https://www.instructables.com/id/30-channel-LED-RGB-Ambilight-Clone/
Hey Guys!
A lot of things have changed since I began my project and I didn't expect so many ideas, comments and improvements.
Because it is much easier to build an Ambilight than in my instruction, I decided to update my instructable. First of all, there are, of course, many other solutions out there. Checkout this link, it's easy and really cool:
http://hackaday.com/2011/10/05/adalight-ladyadas-ambilight/
THIS instructable is not up to date. If you want to find out about my new approach of building a 30 channel ambilight just search for my other instructable dealing with this topic or click this link:
https://www.instructables.com/id/30-channel-LED-RGB-Ambilight-Clone/
Step 1: Java Microcontroller LED TV Ambient Light
INSPIRATION
A few weeks ago I came across a blog entry by SiliconRepublic (Roy). His original post can be found here:
http://siliconrepublic.blogspot.com/2011/02/arduino-based-pc-ambient-lighting.html
The author wrote a small Processing sketch that sums-up all RGB values of his computer display, calculates the mean values and sends them via serial connection to a micro controller (in his case an Arduino). The Arduino controls a strip of RGB LEDs.
That is an easy assembly and really useful at the same time. It appreciates your way of watching movies a lot. My aim was to enhance his ideas so I could have something like the Philips Ambilight: Different colors on different positions of the screen. I also wanted a little user interface so I could easily change parameters without changing my source code.
Because I am not familiar with Processing I used pure Java in this project. I guess you can easily transfer my program to Processing due to the fact that Processing and Java are really similar.
Beside that Java application the other main component you need to accomplish this task is a micro controller (perhaps two?) to operate the LED strips.
Attachments
Step 2: Overview
The first half of this instruction set will explain everything concerning the hardware of the project. In the second half I will explain how my Java application can be used to control the LED strips.
But first I would like to give a brief overview of the whole assembly.
The provided application takes a screen shot of your display. That image is divided into different parts. The right and left part of the screen and the upper part, which is also divided into one left and one right part. That makes four parts altogether.
The application calculates three mean values for each of these areas (Red, Green, Blue). By doing so we can combine those values to one mean color for that part of the screen.
After we calculated four of those colors (for each area one) we can send them to the micro controllers.
The computer and the micro controllers are connected via serial connection.
After the micro controllers (in my case two Arduinos) received their messages they can change the color of the LED strips. Therefor they change the PWM value of their output pins. Each of these pins is connected to a transistor that switches the externally powered 12V LED strips on and off.
But first I would like to give a brief overview of the whole assembly.
The provided application takes a screen shot of your display. That image is divided into different parts. The right and left part of the screen and the upper part, which is also divided into one left and one right part. That makes four parts altogether.
The application calculates three mean values for each of these areas (Red, Green, Blue). By doing so we can combine those values to one mean color for that part of the screen.
After we calculated four of those colors (for each area one) we can send them to the micro controllers.
The computer and the micro controllers are connected via serial connection.
After the micro controllers (in my case two Arduinos) received their messages they can change the color of the LED strips. Therefor they change the PWM value of their output pins. Each of these pins is connected to a transistor that switches the externally powered 12V LED strips on and off.
Step 3: LED Strips
One of the main things you need is light. You could use single RGB LEDs, but that's not too cool because the colors don't mix as much as we would need it, concerning to my results after some testing. So what you need is RGB SMD LED strips (abbreviations LOL).
These strips contain many RGB LEDs that mix color just like we want it. You can cut them into pieces, another useful feature we need.
I bought a 5m (16 feet) strip on eBay for 32€ (44$) shipping included. That package also contained a remote and a receiver so you can use the rest as ambient light or do as I did. I sold the rest for 20€.
So what I got was 2m (6.5 feet, about 80 inches) of LED strip for 10€ (14$). And that's okay, I guess. I cut it into four peaces. One for the left side, one for the upper left, one for the right and one for the upper right part of my TV.
There are different kinds of strips. Some have got 60 LEDs/m and some only 30. I bought one with only 30 LEDs/m which means 15 LEDs/part and that's enough for this project.
These strips need an extra power supply because the micro controller must not be used. So have (or buy) a power supply (12V) serving at least 1A (better measure, because there are some really hungry LED strips out there). Mine is energy saving (<0.7A on full white light for the length of 80 inches (2m)).
These strips contain many RGB LEDs that mix color just like we want it. You can cut them into pieces, another useful feature we need.
I bought a 5m (16 feet) strip on eBay for 32€ (44$) shipping included. That package also contained a remote and a receiver so you can use the rest as ambient light or do as I did. I sold the rest for 20€.
So what I got was 2m (6.5 feet, about 80 inches) of LED strip for 10€ (14$). And that's okay, I guess. I cut it into four peaces. One for the left side, one for the upper left, one for the right and one for the upper right part of my TV.
There are different kinds of strips. Some have got 60 LEDs/m and some only 30. I bought one with only 30 LEDs/m which means 15 LEDs/part and that's enough for this project.
These strips need an extra power supply because the micro controller must not be used. So have (or buy) a power supply (12V) serving at least 1A (better measure, because there are some really hungry LED strips out there). Mine is energy saving (<0.7A on full white light for the length of 80 inches (2m)).
Step 4: Micro Controller
I don't want to talk about the micro controllers too long.
Each one simply receives six RGB values on its serial connection and 'translates' them into PWM values to directly control the strength of each LED. Nothing less, nothing more.
I used two Arduinos for my project because they only have got six PWM pins each (we need 12 = 4 x RGB). You could also use cheaper stuff but, hey, I love my Arduinos and already had them. So why buy something new, if it works?
The Arduino Mega has got enouhg PWM pins to use only one. That may be cheaper, too.
Each one simply receives six RGB values on its serial connection and 'translates' them into PWM values to directly control the strength of each LED. Nothing less, nothing more.
I used two Arduinos for my project because they only have got six PWM pins each (we need 12 = 4 x RGB). You could also use cheaper stuff but, hey, I love my Arduinos and already had them. So why buy something new, if it works?
The Arduino Mega has got enouhg PWM pins to use only one. That may be cheaper, too.
Step 5: Hardware
Another thing you need are transistors and resistors to control when the LEDs shall be on and off. Please make sure you buy the right ones. I cannot tell you which one you need because there are different kinds of LED strips out there.
Either you have got one with common anode (like I have) than you control the colors by modulating the ground connection.
Or your LED strip has got a common cathode. Than it's the opposite. Your LEDs share their ground and what you control is the positive (+12V) power supply.
In the figure I attached to this step you can see how the pins have to be connected when using a common anode LED strip. You need to solder this 12 times (for each value = 4 x RGB).
Either you have got one with common anode (like I have) than you control the colors by modulating the ground connection.
Or your LED strip has got a common cathode. Than it's the opposite. Your LEDs share their ground and what you control is the positive (+12V) power supply.
In the figure I attached to this step you can see how the pins have to be connected when using a common anode LED strip. You need to solder this 12 times (for each value = 4 x RGB).
Step 6: Testing
After you soldered everything together and connected the micro controllers and the LED strips it's time for testing.
Believe me or not, everything worked fine for me. I just soldered one transistor back to front and had to resolder that one. But that was all.
Then I remembered an old HUB waiting for me in the basement (from a mouse pad I never used). So I screwed the thing open and got the electronic device. I connected the two Arduinos to it. I also got a little project box which fits perfectly behind my TV. You only need to connect power and USB. The only thing missing is the application to run the micro controllers.
That'll be the next steps.
Believe me or not, everything worked fine for me. I just soldered one transistor back to front and had to resolder that one. But that was all.
Then I remembered an old HUB waiting for me in the basement (from a mouse pad I never used). So I screwed the thing open and got the electronic device. I connected the two Arduinos to it. I also got a little project box which fits perfectly behind my TV. You only need to connect power and USB. The only thing missing is the application to run the micro controllers.
That'll be the next steps.
Step 7: Preparation
Because my source code is fully documented and easily to understand by looking at the code I will explain what the application can do instead of explaining my source code in deep. If you want to, you can just look up the code next to the runnable jar file.
Nevertheless I will give a short overview of how the calculations work.
But first of all let's get my application to work.
INSTALL JAVA
The first thing you have to do if you want my program to run on your PC is to make sure you have got a Java Runtime Environment installed on your computer. If you do not have one installed yet, you can download it right here:
http://www.java.com/
After installing the environment you can try to run my program without a microcontroller. Just to make sure everything is installed correctly. You will be informed about a missing driver which is needed to communicate with a serial device. Do not pay attention to that message yet.
If everything looks similar to the pictures below you can go ahead.
Nevertheless I will give a short overview of how the calculations work.
But first of all let's get my application to work.
INSTALL JAVA
The first thing you have to do if you want my program to run on your PC is to make sure you have got a Java Runtime Environment installed on your computer. If you do not have one installed yet, you can download it right here:
http://www.java.com/
After installing the environment you can try to run my program without a microcontroller. Just to make sure everything is installed correctly. You will be informed about a missing driver which is needed to communicate with a serial device. Do not pay attention to that message yet.
If everything looks similar to the pictures below you can go ahead.
Step 8: RXTX Library and Driver
My Java application uses the RXTXcomm library to communicate with the microcontrollers. That library allows an easy setup of serial connections to many devices including the Arduino. Because a special serial driver is needed to access a COM Port under Java you have to make sure that RXTX is installed correctly.
WINDOWS
Windows users only need to copy one file into a specific 'bin' folder of your Java installation.
The error message you already saw told you where your Java Environment 'bin' folder is. You only need to copy the file 'rxtxSerial.dll' into that folder and everything should work (see figure 1 on this page).
My zip file contains the whole rxtx library including the dll file you want:
TVBarLight\rxtx-2.1-7-bins-r2\Windows\i368-mingw32\rxtxSerial.dll
Copy that file into your 'bin' folder. That could be something like C:\Program Files\Java\jre6\bin
LINUX
I've also tested my setup under Linux (Ubuntu 10.04) and it works. To use RXTX with Linux you need to copy the file 'librxtxSerial.so' (you can find it in the rxtx folder next to my jar) to another specific folder in your java path. For me, that folder is
/usr/lib/jvm/java-6-sun-1.6.0.24/jre/lib/i386
You should have a comparable folder on your system.
I really must say that my program slows down my Ubuntu. I cannot even watch a movie while using my program and one cycle takes up to a quarter of a second. That means the update rate is too slow. Windows works much better for this. I don't know why. It's not the calculations.
MAC
Sorry guys, you have to find out by yourself, because I don't know anything about Java and Mac OS (X).
FURTHER INFORMATION
If you still do not understand what I'm trying to tell you or just want to make sure you really understood what I said have a look at this page:
http://www.jcontrol.org/download/readme_rxtx_en.html
If you want to know more about the libraries and how to use them this Wiki may help you:
http://rxtx.qbang.org/wiki/index.php/Main_Page
WINDOWS
Windows users only need to copy one file into a specific 'bin' folder of your Java installation.
The error message you already saw told you where your Java Environment 'bin' folder is. You only need to copy the file 'rxtxSerial.dll' into that folder and everything should work (see figure 1 on this page).
My zip file contains the whole rxtx library including the dll file you want:
TVBarLight\rxtx-2.1-7-bins-r2\Windows\i368-mingw32\rxtxSerial.dll
Copy that file into your 'bin' folder. That could be something like C:\Program Files\Java\jre6\bin
LINUX
I've also tested my setup under Linux (Ubuntu 10.04) and it works. To use RXTX with Linux you need to copy the file 'librxtxSerial.so' (you can find it in the rxtx folder next to my jar) to another specific folder in your java path. For me, that folder is
/usr/lib/jvm/java-6-sun-1.6.0.24/jre/lib/i386
You should have a comparable folder on your system.
I really must say that my program slows down my Ubuntu. I cannot even watch a movie while using my program and one cycle takes up to a quarter of a second. That means the update rate is too slow. Windows works much better for this. I don't know why. It's not the calculations.
MAC
Sorry guys, you have to find out by yourself, because I don't know anything about Java and Mac OS (X).
FURTHER INFORMATION
If you still do not understand what I'm trying to tell you or just want to make sure you really understood what I said have a look at this page:
http://www.jcontrol.org/download/readme_rxtx_en.html
If you want to know more about the libraries and how to use them this Wiki may help you:
http://rxtx.qbang.org/wiki/index.php/Main_Page
Step 9: Looking for COM Ports...
After you have successfully set up your Java Environment and made sure that Java can communicate with serial devices it is time to start the program again. No error message should pop up now.
Still getting an error telling you there is a driver missing? Something went wrong. You can also see that there is still a problem if the upper part of the application is painted in red.
Either you try to solve your problem or just use the program without communicating with a serial device.
Let's say you solved all problems and no error message pops up. It now takes some time to look for available COM-Ports (up to 30 seconds).
The waiting screen automatically closes when all COM ports are found. The main application starts.
Still getting an error telling you there is a driver missing? Something went wrong. You can also see that there is still a problem if the upper part of the application is painted in red.
Either you try to solve your problem or just use the program without communicating with a serial device.
Let's say you solved all problems and no error message pops up. It now takes some time to look for available COM-Ports (up to 30 seconds).
The waiting screen automatically closes when all COM ports are found. The main application starts.
Step 10: Main Application
The main application is divided into two main parts:
1) The outer area shows the different mean values calculated by analyzing the pixels of the chosen display.
2) The middle part consists of two areas:
1) The upper one lets you control the COM settings.
2) You can use the lower part to change the parameters concerning the calculations.
This main functionalities will be explained on the next pages.
1) The outer area shows the different mean values calculated by analyzing the pixels of the chosen display.
2) The middle part consists of two areas:
1) The upper one lets you control the COM settings.
2) You can use the lower part to change the parameters concerning the calculations.
This main functionalities will be explained on the next pages.
Step 11: Mean Value Calculation
If you checked 'GUI update', the outer parts of the GUI will tell you what colors have been calculated. Let's have a look at the calculation of the left color (that means the color on the right border of the screen).
The first thing we do is to take a screen shot of the whole screen:
screenShot = screenshotRobot.createScreenCapture(new Rectangle(new Dimension(screenWidth,screenHeight)));
Then we reset all RGB values to zero.
red = green = blue = 0;
After that we have to iterate over all pixels affecting the current color. Two for-loops will do that job for us. In each step we increment our position by the current step width.
// Left
for (xPosition = startXSide; xPosition < endXSide; xPosition += stepWidth) {
for (yPosition = startYSide; yPosition < endYSide; yPosition += stepWidth) {
currentPixel = screenShot.getRGB(xPosition, yPosition);
red += (int) (255 & (currentPixel >> 16));
green += (int) (255 & (currentPixel >> 8));
blue =+ (int) (255 & (currentPixel));
}
}
The step width controls how many pixels affect the mean value. The higher this value is, the faster the for loops will be processed, because we miss out a lot of pixels. The other side of the coin is the calculation of the mean value. It is more precisely if you if you analyze many pixels. On the other hand it is not necessary to look at every single one because close pixels have got the same color.
It is a compromise between speed and accuracy. Just try out a few values and monitor the update value.
We sum up all red, all green and all blue values of all pixels and divide by the number of this pixels. Now we have got the mean value.
red /= numberOfSidePixels;
green /= numberOfSidePixels;
blue /= numberOfSidePixels;
If you want the application to sleep for a while after one calculation cycle you can change the value for 'Sleep'.
The first thing we do is to take a screen shot of the whole screen:
screenShot = screenshotRobot.createScreenCapture(new Rectangle(new Dimension(screenWidth,screenHeight)));
Then we reset all RGB values to zero.
red = green = blue = 0;
After that we have to iterate over all pixels affecting the current color. Two for-loops will do that job for us. In each step we increment our position by the current step width.
// Left
for (xPosition = startXSide; xPosition < endXSide; xPosition += stepWidth) {
for (yPosition = startYSide; yPosition < endYSide; yPosition += stepWidth) {
currentPixel = screenShot.getRGB(xPosition, yPosition);
red += (int) (255 & (currentPixel >> 16));
green += (int) (255 & (currentPixel >> 8));
blue =+ (int) (255 & (currentPixel));
}
}
The step width controls how many pixels affect the mean value. The higher this value is, the faster the for loops will be processed, because we miss out a lot of pixels. The other side of the coin is the calculation of the mean value. It is more precisely if you if you analyze many pixels. On the other hand it is not necessary to look at every single one because close pixels have got the same color.
It is a compromise between speed and accuracy. Just try out a few values and monitor the update value.
We sum up all red, all green and all blue values of all pixels and divide by the number of this pixels. Now we have got the mean value.
red /= numberOfSidePixels;
green /= numberOfSidePixels;
blue /= numberOfSidePixels;
If you want the application to sleep for a while after one calculation cycle you can change the value for 'Sleep'.
Step 12: COM Ports
As already explained you can control which port is responsible for which LED strips.
Both port combo boxes contain all available ports of your system. If your desired COM port is not listed make sure it is not used by another program when starting my application.
Please keep in mind that you can not choose the same COM port for both combo boxes and then start communicating, because the packets would probably switch their order.
Check the 'COM Active' box to activate the serial communication.
If you want to change the source code feel free. You can find it next to the runnable jar file (src folder). To compile the code you need to make sure the rxtxComm.jar is available. That file can be found in the rxtx folder. It is already included in my application. That's why you don't need to make it available in your Java path.
Both port combo boxes contain all available ports of your system. If your desired COM port is not listed make sure it is not used by another program when starting my application.
Please keep in mind that you can not choose the same COM port for both combo boxes and then start communicating, because the packets would probably switch their order.
Check the 'COM Active' box to activate the serial communication.
If you want to change the source code feel free. You can find it next to the runnable jar file (src folder). To compile the code you need to make sure the rxtxComm.jar is available. That file can be found in the rxtx folder. It is already included in my application. That's why you don't need to make it available in your Java path.
Step 13: Test Frame
There are two other useful features I added to my little app. I just had too much time waiting for the LED strips to arrive.
If you press the 'Test' button a new full screen window will open and change every 1.5 seconds. All positions (left, upper left, upper right, right) and all colors (red, green, blue) will be shown one after another to test everything.
The second option I added is a configuration button. This will start a new full screen window. It lets you choose the areas to analyze. That can be really helpful. If a movie is captured in cinema scope there's alsmost half of my display is black. I don't want this black color to be analyzed. On the one hand this slows down my pc, because it's a lot of computation only to add zeros. On the other hand that destroys the real mean value because we add a lot of zeros but divide by all pixels. Figure 2 shows that window.
If you press the 'Test' button a new full screen window will open and change every 1.5 seconds. All positions (left, upper left, upper right, right) and all colors (red, green, blue) will be shown one after another to test everything.
The second option I added is a configuration button. This will start a new full screen window. It lets you choose the areas to analyze. That can be really helpful. If a movie is captured in cinema scope there's alsmost half of my display is black. I don't want this black color to be analyzed. On the one hand this slows down my pc, because it's a lot of computation only to add zeros. On the other hand that destroys the real mean value because we add a lot of zeros but divide by all pixels. Figure 2 shows that window.
Step 14: Boblight
EDIT:
My program just works fine for Windows Users. For my computer it takes about 20 Screenhots per second which is more than enough. I can even make it faster by incrementing the step width to 10 or something.
But then I switched back to Ubuntu and wanted to watch a movie with my Dolby Digital Sound System and my new LED Lights. There was a problem. Linux does not allow fast screenshot taking as Windows does. It was about 4 screenshots per second and the movie stopped while processing. That was not acceptable so I found another useful program, which is written in C++ and does just as much as my application does (acutally it makes a loooooooot more, if you want). But without the nice user interface. It's called Boblight and Linux users can compile the source code on their own.
Make sure you have all required libs:
sudo apt-get install libx11-dev libgl1-mesa-dev libxrender-dev portaudio19-dev libavcodec-dev libavformat-dev libswscale-dev libavdevice-dev
Here you can find the source code of Boblight.
http://code.google.com/p/boblight/source/checkout
After you installed the program you need to create a file called boblight.conf. That file tells boblight daemon where to find the micro controller and what 'protocol' to use.
I just added my boblight.conf-file to this step, so you can download it and change it to your desires. You have to change the devices output to your serial ports.
In my example file one device is set up for Ubuntu and one for Windows. That is just an example and does not work, because you need to have both Linux or both Windows. I just wanted to show how to name the ports. So either change it to "comXX" (Windows) or /dev/usbXX for Linux.
After everything is installed you can start the boblightd (daemon) which waits for clients to connect and then sends data to the micro controllers.
That client may be boblight-X11 which takes screenshots of the screen and analyzes them just like my application did.
Windows users can also use boblight (not the current version, but an old one).
You only need to download this folder and copy the boblight.conf file into
http://www.xs4all.nl/~loosen/boblight/boblight-1.3-beta1.rar
After you changed the the configuration file to your needs start the daemon and then start getpixel.
Windows Vista and W7 Users have to change their theme to Windows 7 Classic, because the getpixel()-function does not work with aero-themes.
For me it just works fine on Windows 7 and Ubuntu and does not require that much computation power.
If you want to find out more about boblight and how to use it (especially about the config-files) checkout
http://blogger.xs4all.nl/loosen/
(old)
or http://code.google.com/p/boblight/ (current project location).
My program just works fine for Windows Users. For my computer it takes about 20 Screenhots per second which is more than enough. I can even make it faster by incrementing the step width to 10 or something.
But then I switched back to Ubuntu and wanted to watch a movie with my Dolby Digital Sound System and my new LED Lights. There was a problem. Linux does not allow fast screenshot taking as Windows does. It was about 4 screenshots per second and the movie stopped while processing. That was not acceptable so I found another useful program, which is written in C++ and does just as much as my application does (acutally it makes a loooooooot more, if you want). But without the nice user interface. It's called Boblight and Linux users can compile the source code on their own.
Make sure you have all required libs:
sudo apt-get install libx11-dev libgl1-mesa-dev libxrender-dev portaudio19-dev libavcodec-dev libavformat-dev libswscale-dev libavdevice-dev
Here you can find the source code of Boblight.
http://code.google.com/p/boblight/source/checkout
After you installed the program you need to create a file called boblight.conf. That file tells boblight daemon where to find the micro controller and what 'protocol' to use.
I just added my boblight.conf-file to this step, so you can download it and change it to your desires. You have to change the devices output to your serial ports.
In my example file one device is set up for Ubuntu and one for Windows. That is just an example and does not work, because you need to have both Linux or both Windows. I just wanted to show how to name the ports. So either change it to "comXX" (Windows) or /dev/usbXX for Linux.
After everything is installed you can start the boblightd (daemon) which waits for clients to connect and then sends data to the micro controllers.
That client may be boblight-X11 which takes screenshots of the screen and analyzes them just like my application did.
Windows users can also use boblight (not the current version, but an old one).
You only need to download this folder and copy the boblight.conf file into
http://www.xs4all.nl/~loosen/boblight/boblight-1.3-beta1.rar
After you changed the the configuration file to your needs start the daemon and then start getpixel.
Windows Vista and W7 Users have to change their theme to Windows 7 Classic, because the getpixel()-function does not work with aero-themes.
For me it just works fine on Windows 7 and Ubuntu and does not require that much computation power.
If you want to find out more about boblight and how to use it (especially about the config-files) checkout
http://blogger.xs4all.nl/loosen/
(old)
or http://code.google.com/p/boblight/ (current project location).