Introduction: Making a Japanese Kabuto (兜, 冑) Helmet Using Worbla Thermoplastic.
Kabuto (兜, 冑) or Japanese War helmet worn by samurai
Elements of the helmet that I will try to incorporate into my model.
Hachi (helmet bowl)
Shikoro (neck guard)
Tatemono or datemono (helmet crests)
Fukigaeshi (wing- or ear-like projections on both sides of the kabuto)
Mabizashi (brim or visor)
Shinobi-no-o: Kabuto would be secured to the head by a chin cord (shinobi-no-o)
Ukebari (hachi lining
Link to more information.
Elements of the helmet that I will try to incorporate into my model.
Hachi (helmet bowl)
Shikoro (neck guard)
Tatemono or datemono (helmet crests)
Fukigaeshi (wing- or ear-like projections on both sides of the kabuto)
Mabizashi (brim or visor)
Shinobi-no-o: Kabuto would be secured to the head by a chin cord (shinobi-no-o)
Ukebari (hachi lining
Link to more information.
Step 1: Tools That You Will Need!
Step 2: Worbla Thermoplastic
"Technical specs:
Use hot air, water or steam (min 200°F) to bring this plastic to the shape you want to (heatgun recommended). The material can be heat-formed even after repeated cooling, it is safe to use and solvent-free. Unlike other heat-formable plastics, Worbla leftovers can be molded and shaped like clay, so there is almost no waste. Worbla hardens very fast and can be sanded. The extra glue coating on the shiny side makes it very easy to attach several layers by heating up the pieces, as well as attaching additional components. Start with a thin sheet then build up, or create sturdy pieces with multiple layers from the start."
Link to where I got my thermoplastic.
Use hot air, water or steam (min 200°F) to bring this plastic to the shape you want to (heatgun recommended). The material can be heat-formed even after repeated cooling, it is safe to use and solvent-free. Unlike other heat-formable plastics, Worbla leftovers can be molded and shaped like clay, so there is almost no waste. Worbla hardens very fast and can be sanded. The extra glue coating on the shiny side makes it very easy to attach several layers by heating up the pieces, as well as attaching additional components. Start with a thin sheet then build up, or create sturdy pieces with multiple layers from the start."
Link to where I got my thermoplastic.
Step 3: How to Get the Correct Shapes.
I cut out the shapes I needed first in construction paper. Construction paper is cheap and if the shape is wrong I just draw it again! I then use the construction paper template to draw the object in to the Thermoplastic.
Step 4: How to Cut Thermoplastic
It is easy to cut you can use a sharp knife or scissors.
Step 5: How to Reshape Thermoplastic.
Heat the plastic to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. I used a heat gun to do this.
Link to a shaping tutorial.
Link to a shaping tutorial.
Step 6: How to Video Links.
Step 7: It Is Easy to Connect Two Pieces Together.
The shiny side of the plastic has a glue / adhesive coating so after heating you can attach pieces together to build up your object.
Step 8: Other Ways to Form the Plastic to a Shape.
You can do it by forming the plastic by hand or by using a mold or object that fits the shape you want
Step 9: After You Get the Plastic in the Correct Shape Let It Cool.
These will allow the plastic to harden to the shape you want it in.
Step 10: The Helmet Is Now Done!
Step 11: Next Step Is to Paint!
Step 12: I Used Clear Gesso for the First Layer.
Step 13: Follow Up Paint Layers.
I used white mixed with black acrylic for the base layer. I then followed up with two coats of black for the helmet and gold for the horns.
Painting Tutorial link.
Painting Tutorial link.
Step 14: I Then Added Red Felt for the Helmet Lining.
Step 15: Finally the Helmet Chin Cord.
Step 16: Finished Helmet.
I made this helmet for My 3d printed DARwIn-OP clone.
The head is form a production DARwIn-OP.
You can see how I made my DARwIn clone here.
The head is form a production DARwIn-OP.
You can see how I made my DARwIn clone here.