Introduction: Portable Shogi Board
Here is how to make a portable shogi board!
Shogi is very similar to Chess. Chinese Chess, Western Chess, Shogi, and several other chesslike games most likely came from an original version of Chess in India. Since then, a version of the Indian Chess traveled from India to Han-Dynasty China, to Japan, and this game, Shogi, is the result. Like Chess, you try to checkmate the opponent's king. The things that makes Shogi so great though, are drops and promotions. In Shogi, instead of killing pieces, they are captured, and you can place them back on the board to work for you. It is believed this is because in 16th century Japan, mercenary groups would be captured, and could switch loyalties to avoid execution. In addition, promotion is vaguely similar to that of chess. When a piece reaches the back third of the board, it can promote.
Shogi is very similar to Chess. Chinese Chess, Western Chess, Shogi, and several other chesslike games most likely came from an original version of Chess in India. Since then, a version of the Indian Chess traveled from India to Han-Dynasty China, to Japan, and this game, Shogi, is the result. Like Chess, you try to checkmate the opponent's king. The things that makes Shogi so great though, are drops and promotions. In Shogi, instead of killing pieces, they are captured, and you can place them back on the board to work for you. It is believed this is because in 16th century Japan, mercenary groups would be captured, and could switch loyalties to avoid execution. In addition, promotion is vaguely similar to that of chess. When a piece reaches the back third of the board, it can promote.
Step 1: Here Are the Materials:
Materials Required:
Two wooden 12in x 10in boards. Can be any thickness, I used 1/2in, but 1/4in to 3/4in should work splendid.
Two wooden 12in x 1in x 1in dowels.
Two wooden 8in x 1in x 1in dowels.
4 small blocks of scrap wood under 1in thick thickness.
Wood Glue
Materials Optional:
Screws: If you really want it extra secure. I felt like I just needed wood glue, but if you want nails, go ahead.
Magnets: I plan on sinking some small magnets into the sides, to make a magnetic clamp for the board, so the pieces and stuff don't fall out.
Paint
Varnish
Tools:
Clamps: I suppose you can use books... I used to use a stack of textbooks, but ever since I got the C-clamps, my projects seemed stronger and better...
Sandpaper: Sometimes things don't fit right, and other times you might get splinters...
Two wooden 12in x 10in boards. Can be any thickness, I used 1/2in, but 1/4in to 3/4in should work splendid.
Two wooden 12in x 1in x 1in dowels.
Two wooden 8in x 1in x 1in dowels.
4 small blocks of scrap wood under 1in thick thickness.
Wood Glue
Materials Optional:
Screws: If you really want it extra secure. I felt like I just needed wood glue, but if you want nails, go ahead.
Magnets: I plan on sinking some small magnets into the sides, to make a magnetic clamp for the board, so the pieces and stuff don't fall out.
Paint
Varnish
Tools:
Clamps: I suppose you can use books... I used to use a stack of textbooks, but ever since I got the C-clamps, my projects seemed stronger and better...
Sandpaper: Sometimes things don't fit right, and other times you might get splinters...
Step 2: Step 1: Attach the Sides
Attach the sides to 1 wood board.
Start with 12 inch long side, then go to the other one. Afterward, fit in the 8 inch ones between. Make sure they are flush to the board. If the 8 inch ones do not fit, sand them down, or add wood glue/wood filler.
Start with 12 inch long side, then go to the other one. Afterward, fit in the 8 inch ones between. Make sure they are flush to the board. If the 8 inch ones do not fit, sand them down, or add wood glue/wood filler.
Step 3: Step 2: Attach the Scrap
Attach the scrap blocks 1 inch offset from the corners. That way, when the lid is put on, the lid won't move. It will jiggle, depending on how well you do it.
Step 4: Step 3: Finish
In whichever logical order, add the grid, the varnish, the markings, the woodstain, or whatever you want to the board. Remember, the shogi board is 9x9, but the surface is 12in x 10in. I offset mine by 1/2in, and I made my rectangles 1in x 1.22in. If you want to, you can also carve in the lines. I am pretty new to woodworking, so I chose not to. A varnish would also be a good idea at the end.
Step 5: Optional Stuff and Extras
I am planning to sink some mini circular magnets into the lid and the base, so I can make a magnetic board.
For you shogi pieces, in America, it is probably a good idea to have a set of westernized pieces. This can be from making symbols, to just putting letter abbreviations. I admit, part of the reason for doing this would be laziness, but I also didn't want my opponents to spend forever trying to memorize the pieces.
Also, I don't know how to make wedge-shaped wood, and I am not really patient enough to make my pieces out of wood, seeing as how an x-acto knife and a pocket knife would take forever, a hacksaw would be overkill, and I don't have a bandsaw...
For you shogi pieces, in America, it is probably a good idea to have a set of westernized pieces. This can be from making symbols, to just putting letter abbreviations. I admit, part of the reason for doing this would be laziness, but I also didn't want my opponents to spend forever trying to memorize the pieces.
Also, I don't know how to make wedge-shaped wood, and I am not really patient enough to make my pieces out of wood, seeing as how an x-acto knife and a pocket knife would take forever, a hacksaw would be overkill, and I don't have a bandsaw...
Step 6: Step 4: Play Shogi!
Play it!