Introduction: RadioShell: Hacking a Radio for Backpacking
This instructable will show you how to hack a standard radio to be durable enough to withstand being carried around within a traveller's backpack.
The RadioShell is a small, ergonomic, clamshell radio for those who value durability while travelling. The RadioShell closes flush on all sides, protecting the internal electronics and the user controls from light water damage and hard knocks. The RadioShells closed form is easy and safe to pack and once opened, intuitive to use. The RadioShell is designed for backpackers and travellers who can open the device safe in the knowledge it will not be damaged. The RadioShells portable design means that it can be used wherever the user is staying such as hotels and hostels but can also be taken with them to the park or on public transport.
Standard Radio
The RadioShell is a small, ergonomic, clamshell radio for those who value durability while travelling. The RadioShell closes flush on all sides, protecting the internal electronics and the user controls from light water damage and hard knocks. The RadioShells closed form is easy and safe to pack and once opened, intuitive to use. The RadioShell is designed for backpackers and travellers who can open the device safe in the knowledge it will not be damaged. The RadioShells portable design means that it can be used wherever the user is staying such as hotels and hostels but can also be taken with them to the park or on public transport.
Standard Radio
Step 1: Exploded View and What You Will Need Materials List
I have attached an exploded view of my design to help with the construction. The view also contains a material and parts list downloadable as a .PDF.
If you are unable to download the .PDF the tool and material lists are also below.
Tools Required:
• Precision Screwdrivers
• Soldering Iron
• Solder Sucker
• Wire Stripper
• Laser Cutter or Drill Press for front faces
• Hot melt glue gun
• Disc Sander or Hand Sander
• Bandsaw to cut Styrene and MDF
• Vacuum Former
Materials Required:
• 500mm Square - 5mm MDF
• 2x3100mm square – 2mm Styrene
• 300mm square – 2mm Styrene
• Hot Melt Glue
• Hard Plastic Adhesive
• Extruded Acrylic Hinge
• 16 Neodymium Magnets
• ICF – S22 Sony Portable Radio
If you are unable to download the .PDF the tool and material lists are also below.
Tools Required:
• Precision Screwdrivers
• Soldering Iron
• Solder Sucker
• Wire Stripper
• Laser Cutter or Drill Press for front faces
• Hot melt glue gun
• Disc Sander or Hand Sander
• Bandsaw to cut Styrene and MDF
• Vacuum Former
Materials Required:
• 500mm Square - 5mm MDF
• 2x3100mm square – 2mm Styrene
• 300mm square – 2mm Styrene
• Hot Melt Glue
• Hard Plastic Adhesive
• Extruded Acrylic Hinge
• 16 Neodymium Magnets
• ICF – S22 Sony Portable Radio
Attachments
Step 2: De Constructing Your Radio
Taking your portable radio and using a precision screw driver kit, unscrew all of the outer casing screws and prise apart careful not to pull too hard and cause damage to any of the inner components.
Once the radio has been opened, remove the circuitry from its clips and prise the speaker from its mount.
You will now have a free standing circuit minus the casing for the battery.
Once the radio has been opened, remove the circuitry from its clips and prise the speaker from its mount.
You will now have a free standing circuit minus the casing for the battery.
Step 3: Altering Your Circuit
Using a soldering iron you will need to extend the connections between the circuit board and the speaker, battery connections, volume control/on off switch, tuner and aerial.
Using a soldering iron heat up the current component connections to the board until solder is fully melted and using a solder sucker remove all traces of the solder.
Once done the component will then come away from the board. At this point it is useful to take images or mark the component in some way so as to connect to wires back to the correct holes.
Cut a strip of wire to your desired length and strip both ends to show the metal core. I used multi core cable in my design as due to the hinged movement of the radio single coil has a greater chance of breaking. Touch the wire to the component connection and add a small amount of heated solder to create a solid connection. Repeat with the opposite end of the wire to your circuit.
At this stage you can choose to cut free the battery casing from the initial radio or use a separately sold casing, making sure that it does not exceed 70mm in width.
Using a soldering iron heat up the current component connections to the board until solder is fully melted and using a solder sucker remove all traces of the solder.
Once done the component will then come away from the board. At this point it is useful to take images or mark the component in some way so as to connect to wires back to the correct holes.
Cut a strip of wire to your desired length and strip both ends to show the metal core. I used multi core cable in my design as due to the hinged movement of the radio single coil has a greater chance of breaking. Touch the wire to the component connection and add a small amount of heated solder to create a solid connection. Repeat with the opposite end of the wire to your circuit.
At this stage you can choose to cut free the battery casing from the initial radio or use a separately sold casing, making sure that it does not exceed 70mm in width.
Step 4: Creating the Mount and Face of Your Radio
Both faces are built from 5mm MDF with a 2mm styrene covering.
Attached is a CAD file containing the size and dimensions of both faces. The MDF is cut to a slightly different size on the control side as it is used to stop the dials falling within the shell.
The easiest way to cut is by a laser cutter using the attached CAD file but if one is not available the attached files can be used as a guide as long as the control panels are cut accurately and the round discards are kept as they will be used to create the radios dials in later stages.
The speaker holes are wholly aesthetic but some are required to avoid an echo distortion.
Once created these faces can then be held together using a 'hard plastic' adhesive.
Attached is a CAD file containing the size and dimensions of both faces. The MDF is cut to a slightly different size on the control side as it is used to stop the dials falling within the shell.
The easiest way to cut is by a laser cutter using the attached CAD file but if one is not available the attached files can be used as a guide as long as the control panels are cut accurately and the round discards are kept as they will be used to create the radios dials in later stages.
The speaker holes are wholly aesthetic but some are required to avoid an echo distortion.
Once created these faces can then be held together using a 'hard plastic' adhesive.
Attachments
Step 5: Building the Radios Dials
Unscrew the current volume and tuning dials making sure to keep the screws as they will be used in the new controls.
Using the cut outs from the previous step we can build the dials. Drill through the centre of both MDF pieces and insert the screws from earlier.
To attach the MDF and Plastic dial cover together apply a layer of hard plastic adhesive to both and leave for 30 seconds before attaching them together and applying light pressure.
These new dials can then be screwed onto the extended volume and tuner through the previously cut control face.
Using the cut outs from the previous step we can build the dials. Drill through the centre of both MDF pieces and insert the screws from earlier.
To attach the MDF and Plastic dial cover together apply a layer of hard plastic adhesive to both and leave for 30 seconds before attaching them together and applying light pressure.
These new dials can then be screwed onto the extended volume and tuner through the previously cut control face.
Step 6: Creating Mounts to Secure Your Dials
To hold the volume control in place, use MDF to create a small bracket as pictured in the first image below. The gap should be just wide enough to fit around the circular dial catch the silver connectors on both sides to stop the whole control rotating when turning the volume up or down. Using either hot melt glue or a wood adhesive attach the bracket to the underside of the control face.
To hold the tuning dial in position an L shaped bracket can be made from MDF also each side 10mm in length. As in the second image below, attach the bracket to the underside of the control face and also to the tuner itself using hot melt glue for the tuner and a wood adhesive to the MDF face.
To hold the tuning dial in position an L shaped bracket can be made from MDF also each side 10mm in length. As in the second image below, attach the bracket to the underside of the control face and also to the tuner itself using hot melt glue for the tuner and a wood adhesive to the MDF face.
Step 7: Mounting the Magnets
To make sure the radio stays closed magnets are attached to the underside of both the faces. I used small neodymium magnets as they are exceptionally strong for their size.
Space them equally along the outside edge of your inner faces in columns of two making sure to have each side with a different pole face down.
Use hot melt glue to fix them into position.
Space them equally along the outside edge of your inner faces in columns of two making sure to have each side with a different pole face down.
Use hot melt glue to fix them into position.
Step 8: Mounting Battery Pack and Speaker
In my radio I decided to cut the original battery pack from the portable radio although battery packs can be bought separately. Just make sure the width of the pack does not exceed the 70mm of the speaker face. Use hot melt glue to then fix this to the speaker frame.
The speaker can then be fixed face down onto the same speaker face with a light amount of hot melt glue around the edge, careful not to get any onto the black vibrating part.
You should now have both your control and speaker faces complete.
The speaker can then be fixed face down onto the same speaker face with a light amount of hot melt glue around the edge, careful not to get any onto the black vibrating part.
You should now have both your control and speaker faces complete.
Step 9: Creating Shell Mould
To create the mould for the outer shell you will need a block of wood (I used pine) 70 x 110 x 30mm
On the base mark out the 10mm radius of each corner found on the downloadable AutoCAD drawing. Using either a disc sander or a hand sander round off these edges
You can use the laser cut faces as a guide to the size of each corner. You are aiming to have both the base and face the same size as it is this snug fit that will hold the faces in the shell.
For the rounded edges on the top of the mould I used a radius of 20mm on all edges. Use a disc sander or hand sander to round of these edges.
On the base mark out the 10mm radius of each corner found on the downloadable AutoCAD drawing. Using either a disc sander or a hand sander round off these edges
You can use the laser cut faces as a guide to the size of each corner. You are aiming to have both the base and face the same size as it is this snug fit that will hold the faces in the shell.
For the rounded edges on the top of the mould I used a radius of 20mm on all edges. Use a disc sander or hand sander to round of these edges.
Attachments
Step 10: Vacuum Forming Outer Shell
Place your mould as shown and lower the platform.
Taking your styrene sheeting and fit it to a vacuum former.
The former I used was 3100mm square although sizes may vary.
The following video is a handy tutorial for those who may not have used a vacuum former before, the video was not created by me and all credit to youtube user georgapur2
Tutorial
After you have removed your shells from the vacuum former you will now need to remove your mould. The mould can be quite difficult to remove so, to help, drill a screw into the underside of the mould as shown on the previous step and use this to ease the mould out careful to not put too much strain on the plastic.
Once removed use a band-saw to trim the excess plastic and then hand sander to clean the edges until you get your shells like the two shown below.
Taking your styrene sheeting and fit it to a vacuum former.
The former I used was 3100mm square although sizes may vary.
The following video is a handy tutorial for those who may not have used a vacuum former before, the video was not created by me and all credit to youtube user georgapur2
Tutorial
After you have removed your shells from the vacuum former you will now need to remove your mould. The mould can be quite difficult to remove so, to help, drill a screw into the underside of the mould as shown on the previous step and use this to ease the mould out careful to not put too much strain on the plastic.
Once removed use a band-saw to trim the excess plastic and then hand sander to clean the edges until you get your shells like the two shown below.
Step 11: Inserting Faces Into Final Shell
Place both shells face up in front of you and lower both faces into the shells. Make sure to keep your wires together through the provided gaps from the AutoCad cut out. Thread your aerial into the speaker side of the radio to reduce interference and get the best reception.
As the mould for your shell and laser cut faces are both the same size a very snug fit should be achieved. With a small amount of force the faces should with inside the shells and hold themselves firmly in place. If need be the faces can be sanded lightly.
You should now have your radio held in each of your shells.
As the mould for your shell and laser cut faces are both the same size a very snug fit should be achieved. With a small amount of force the faces should with inside the shells and hold themselves firmly in place. If need be the faces can be sanded lightly.
You should now have your radio held in each of your shells.
Step 12: Attaching Hinge
The final thing to add is your hinge.
I ordered online an acrylic extruded hinge that can be attached using hard plastic adhesive. Make a small coating on the hinge and also the radio side. After 30 seconds apply pressure between them keeping the hinge crease centred between your shells. Hold in place with masking tape and leave for up to 12 hours to guarantee maximum strength.
I ordered online an acrylic extruded hinge that can be attached using hard plastic adhesive. Make a small coating on the hinge and also the radio side. After 30 seconds apply pressure between them keeping the hinge crease centred between your shells. Hold in place with masking tape and leave for up to 12 hours to guarantee maximum strength.
Step 13: The Finale
By now you should have your own RadioShell. I hope you give it a try and feel free to message or comment me about any queries you may have.
Feedback would also be greatly appreciated.
Feedback would also be greatly appreciated.