Introduction: Self Balancing Scooter Ver 2.0
11/01/2013
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Unfortunatly the IDG500/ADXL335 chips unsed on the accelometer is End of Life.
So they will no longer be manufacturing those chips and therefore the accelometers.
There are digital versions out there but a complete code change will have to be done to get it working.
Hopefully soon we will have a solution.
Solution has been found
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181004141876?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
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After building the first Self Balancing Scooter as a test platform, we found it to be quite cool so we built another with a few extra features.
This time we added:
Unfortunatly the IDG500/ADXL335 chips unsed on the accelometer is End of Life.
So they will no longer be manufacturing those chips and therefore the accelometers.
There are digital versions out there but a complete code change will have to be done to get it working.
Hopefully soon we will have a solution.
Solution has been found
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181004141876?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
******************************************************************************************************************
After building the first Self Balancing Scooter as a test platform, we found it to be quite cool so we built another with a few extra features.
This time we added:
- 2 x 14.4Volt Li-ion batterys
- Solid frame for motor and wheel mounts
- Adjustable height handle
- A nice CNCed platform
- And Tread Plate!
The exact same parts used on the first scooter were utilized to build this one.
https://www.instructables.com/id/Self-Balancing-Scooter-Ver-10/
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Code bug updated on the 24th Feb 2012.
Issue with timing routine.
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Step 1: Details About the Build
Issues encountered with the first unit were fixed with this version.
The main issue was that the rear end of kids scooters were a cheap pressed plate that would buckle and bend when under weight so stronger, metal plates were laser-cut to replace the frame which holds the motor and wheels.
The frame was made from 25mm tube and reinforced to hold more of weight.
The front handle was made adjustable so smaller people can ride it too.
Because there wasn't any cheap torches that used the chosen batteries, a holder was made to store the batteries.
A tread plate was added to make it look professional.
The main issue was that the rear end of kids scooters were a cheap pressed plate that would buckle and bend when under weight so stronger, metal plates were laser-cut to replace the frame which holds the motor and wheels.
The frame was made from 25mm tube and reinforced to hold more of weight.
The front handle was made adjustable so smaller people can ride it too.
Because there wasn't any cheap torches that used the chosen batteries, a holder was made to store the batteries.
A tread plate was added to make it look professional.
Step 2: Parts
11/01/2013
******************************************************************************************************************
Unfortunatly the IDG500/ADXL335 chips unsed on the accelometer is End of Life.
So they will no longer be manufacturing those chips and therefore the accelometers.
There are digital versions out there but a complete code change will have to be done to get it working.
Hopefully soon we will have a solution.
We have found a solution
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181004141876?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
******************************************************************************************************************
The parts are the same as the previous build except different batteries were used.
Parts Needed:
•Arduino UNO - Check your local suppliers or eBay.
•Sabertooth 2x25 Motor Controller ( www.dimensionengineering.com or a local supplier)
•5 DOF accelometer (http://www.sparkfun.com/products/11072) ****** new replacement IMU 11/04/2012****** no longer available****
•2 rear end off kids scooters or buy motors and wheels separately (www.oatleyelectronics.com or eBay) Have a look around your area.
•Batteries - SLA batteries are good and cheap. Power drills can be quite inexpensive too or LiPo's if your game!
•Shielded multi core cable for the accelerometer and heavy power cable for the motors
•Deadman switch
•Toggle switch for turning.
•Toggle switch for adjusting balance position.
•DC connector for Arduino.
•DIL pins to suit Arduino
•Double sides tape
•Screws etc
******************************************************************************************************************
So they will no longer be manufacturing those chips and therefore the accelometers.
There are digital versions out there but a complete code change will have to be done to get it working.
Hopefully soon we will have a solution.
We have found a solution
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181004141876?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
******************************************************************************************************************
The parts are the same as the previous build except different batteries were used.
Parts Needed:
•Arduino UNO - Check your local suppliers or eBay.
•Sabertooth 2x25 Motor Controller ( www.dimensionengineering.com or a local supplier)
•5 DOF accelometer (http://www.sparkfun.com/products/11072) ****** new replacement IMU 11/04/2012****** no longer available****
•2 rear end off kids scooters or buy motors and wheels separately (www.oatleyelectronics.com or eBay) Have a look around your area.
•Batteries - SLA batteries are good and cheap. Power drills can be quite inexpensive too or LiPo's if your game!
•Shielded multi core cable for the accelerometer and heavy power cable for the motors
•Deadman switch
•Toggle switch for turning.
•Toggle switch for adjusting balance position.
•DC connector for Arduino.
•DIL pins to suit Arduino
•Double sides tape
•Screws etc
Step 3: Tools
Basic tools are needed.
Also, someone with the skills and equipment needed to weld the frame
And some additional tools:
•Drill and drill bits
•Soldering iron and solder
•Wire cutter and wire strippers
•Heat shrink and hot air gun to shrink it
Also, someone with the skills and equipment needed to weld the frame
And some additional tools:
•Drill and drill bits
•Soldering iron and solder
•Wire cutter and wire strippers
•Heat shrink and hot air gun to shrink it
Step 4: Frames/Motors
The frame was made a lot stronger using 25mm RHS tube and laser cut plates for the wheel/motors mounts. This stopped the twist in the frame which occurred in the previous version.
The front handle was made adjustable and nice grips were added to the top.
The front handle was made adjustable and nice grips were added to the top.
Step 5: Electronics
The electronics are quite basic as per the circuit diagram and are exactly the same as for the previous version.
All cabling for the switches and IMU should be shielded cable except if the IMU is right next to the Arduino.
The IMU needs to be mounted under the centre of the platform or in front if possible. We mounted ours in a box out the front.
Everything fitted in the box and the kill-switch, L/R steer and tilt adjust were run up to the handle.
The batteries were mounted on top of the motors.
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You need to change the DIP switch setting on the sabertooth
Set them to the following.
1on, 2off, 3on, 4off, 5on, 6on
All cabling for the switches and IMU should be shielded cable except if the IMU is right next to the Arduino.
The IMU needs to be mounted under the centre of the platform or in front if possible. We mounted ours in a box out the front.
Everything fitted in the box and the kill-switch, L/R steer and tilt adjust were run up to the handle.
The batteries were mounted on top of the motors.
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You need to change the DIP switch setting on the sabertooth
Set them to the following.
1on, 2off, 3on, 4off, 5on, 6on
Attachments
Step 6: Code
The code is basically the same as XenonJohns code but some of the power/torques values were adjusted. At the start of the code there are 2 variables to alter in order to adjust the power and torque.
