Introduction: Vibrating Plaster Mold Board 'Hirst Arts'
Hi all
I have been making war games scenery for a while (along with everything else) and been using Hirst Arts plaster molds to do it. I was getting fed up with using a board with sponge on the bottom and having to hit it with your hand while filling it with the other. so using mostly bits left around the house i made a Vibrating Board (V.001)
Would like to give a HUGE shout out to http://www.hirstarts.com for supplying the worlds best molds. Been using them for a while and there is nothing but all round love for them.
I have been making war games scenery for a while (along with everything else) and been using Hirst Arts plaster molds to do it. I was getting fed up with using a board with sponge on the bottom and having to hit it with your hand while filling it with the other. so using mostly bits left around the house i made a Vibrating Board (V.001)
Would like to give a HUGE shout out to http://www.hirstarts.com for supplying the worlds best molds. Been using them for a while and there is nothing but all round love for them.
Step 1: Making the Board
First of making the board.
You will need for the board:
1. MDF/Ply board
2. 4 rubber feet
3. Jubilee clip (large)
4. 12v~ 50Hz Motor
5. 3 connector blocks (one set of 2)
6. Small screw (needs to be able to fit into the connector block hole)
7. Small nut (needs to be able for a connector block screw to fit through it)
8. Black bin liner
9. PVA glue
10. 1mm Twin power cable
11. Cable ties
Making the board:
1. I have plenty of MDF laying about the house so I started with one of them, cut it down to a sensible size of 300mm x 210mm and in the middle of the top made two cuts of 20mm and about 30mm apart (these are to attach the motor to)
2. I covered the board in PVA glue and then wrapped a black bin liner (I wasn’t to bothered about how neat it was, in fact I was kind of glad it has the ripples in it as it helps hold onto the moulds when the board is damp)
3. I drilled four holes in each corner for the rubber feet I have and inserted them.
4. After the glue had a chance to dry I went ahead and bent the jubilee clip into shape and fitted it to the board and then the motor. Making sure the motor is strapped down well.
5. I screwed two connector blocks into the board and terminated the motor wires in to it.
6. I drilled another hole next to the motor to allow for a cable tie to fit into to hold the power lead for the motor.
7. I cut all that was needed for the power lead and terminated them into the connector block, fastening the wire to the board with a cable tie.
You will need for the board:
1. MDF/Ply board
2. 4 rubber feet
3. Jubilee clip (large)
4. 12v~ 50Hz Motor
5. 3 connector blocks (one set of 2)
6. Small screw (needs to be able to fit into the connector block hole)
7. Small nut (needs to be able for a connector block screw to fit through it)
8. Black bin liner
9. PVA glue
10. 1mm Twin power cable
11. Cable ties
Making the board:
1. I have plenty of MDF laying about the house so I started with one of them, cut it down to a sensible size of 300mm x 210mm and in the middle of the top made two cuts of 20mm and about 30mm apart (these are to attach the motor to)
2. I covered the board in PVA glue and then wrapped a black bin liner (I wasn’t to bothered about how neat it was, in fact I was kind of glad it has the ripples in it as it helps hold onto the moulds when the board is damp)
3. I drilled four holes in each corner for the rubber feet I have and inserted them.
4. After the glue had a chance to dry I went ahead and bent the jubilee clip into shape and fitted it to the board and then the motor. Making sure the motor is strapped down well.
5. I screwed two connector blocks into the board and terminated the motor wires in to it.
6. I drilled another hole next to the motor to allow for a cable tie to fit into to hold the power lead for the motor.
7. I cut all that was needed for the power lead and terminated them into the connector block, fastening the wire to the board with a cable tie.
Step 2: Making the Power Supply Box
Making the Power house
Materials required for the power house:
1. Project box (medium)
2. 230v~ – 240v~ 50Hz to 12v~ 50Hz transformer
3. Switch capable of handling 240v
4. 1 rubber grommet
5. 3core 1.5mm power cable
6. Glue gun glue
7. Cable ties
Making the power housing:
1. Mark out and cut the project box what needs to be cut out (2 holes for the power in and out and slot for the switch)
2. Insert the grommet and switch
3. Insert the wire through the grommet and secure with a cable tie
4. Solder the line (brown) to the switch and terminate the Natural (Blue) to the 230v in, on the transformer.
5. Solder another line (brown) to the other terminal on the switch and the other end to the 230v in, on the transformer.
6. Terminate the two ends leading to the motor in the two 12v out terminals on the transformer
7. Test the continuity of the line throughout the circuit
8. Using glue gun glue, stick the transformer to the base of the box (or bolt it if your transformer comes with holes)
9. Close the box up and add a UK 3-pin plug to the end of the 1.5mm 3core power cable
Materials required for the power house:
1. Project box (medium)
2. 230v~ – 240v~ 50Hz to 12v~ 50Hz transformer
3. Switch capable of handling 240v
4. 1 rubber grommet
5. 3core 1.5mm power cable
6. Glue gun glue
7. Cable ties
Making the power housing:
1. Mark out and cut the project box what needs to be cut out (2 holes for the power in and out and slot for the switch)
2. Insert the grommet and switch
3. Insert the wire through the grommet and secure with a cable tie
4. Solder the line (brown) to the switch and terminate the Natural (Blue) to the 230v in, on the transformer.
5. Solder another line (brown) to the other terminal on the switch and the other end to the 230v in, on the transformer.
6. Terminate the two ends leading to the motor in the two 12v out terminals on the transformer
7. Test the continuity of the line throughout the circuit
8. Using glue gun glue, stick the transformer to the base of the box (or bolt it if your transformer comes with holes)
9. Close the box up and add a UK 3-pin plug to the end of the 1.5mm 3core power cable
Step 3: All Finished
and that concludes that.
I also at this point filled the connector block at the back of the board with more glue gun glue just in case there might be any spillage over in that general area (i doubt it)
added a pick with one mold on the board, after using it i found that i can actually fit two molds on the board easily.
just another thing to speed my scenery building up
Hope you liked it =]
P.S. all comments are welcome, also any suggestions for a new counter weight. i think mine is a little too soft for what it needs.
I also at this point filled the connector block at the back of the board with more glue gun glue just in case there might be any spillage over in that general area (i doubt it)
added a pick with one mold on the board, after using it i found that i can actually fit two molds on the board easily.
just another thing to speed my scenery building up
Hope you liked it =]
P.S. all comments are welcome, also any suggestions for a new counter weight. i think mine is a little too soft for what it needs.