Introduction: Tim's Miniature Drill Press

About: Retired due to health. Oldish. My background is in Structural Engineering. Also smith of many trades. The majority of my project will be what can be made sat in a chair within arm's reach, on a plotter, 3D pri…

Some times when making small project, you need small tools make them.

This is my Miniature Drill Press I designed and made using my 3D Printer.

I use it for drilling tiny holes in projects I make.

This Instructable is just for the Miniature Pedestal Drill, I assume you will have an adequate DC power supply for it.

Supplies

A 3D Printer is required to make this project.

  • The whole thing is 3D Printed apart from the bought-out Items.

Bought-Out Items

  • One DC Motor: The one I have with 12 volts it spins 28000 RPM. the speed and voltage is not critical, but it's physical size matters as the 3D printed Parts are designed for a certain type.
  • One Speed controller: The speed controller I got from eBay. There are many DC Motor Speed Controllers, the one I have can handle 3 Amps, and is like the one shown.
  • One Collet Chuk: Make sure the Collet Chuck you get has the correct hole size to fit the motor you have. Be carful there are Metric and Imperial Sizes.
  • Collets: You may not have to get these separately, sometimes you can get a good deal when buying the Chuck. Remember there is Imperial and Metric versions of these. Not just the Chuck they fit, but also the drill bits they hold.
  • Twenty Seven Self Tapping Screws: M3 X 10 mm long.
  • Some cable and a Connector for the Power Supply. Ideally the Connector needs to match the DC Power supply you have.
  • Two 3mm diameter linear bars 93mm long.

Attached is the STL files for the printed parts:

Step 1: The Motor and Collet Chuck

The motor needs to be the size shown.

  • It is a common size, so it should not be hard to find one similar.
  • I have marked crucial dimensions with red letters.

A: This dimension is the diameter of the spindle. It is critical that the arbour of the Collet chuck matches this diameter.

B and C: These are the diameters of the bearing mounts, 10mm is what my Drill Press is deigned for.

D: This is the overall length of the motor body. 37.8mm is what my Drill Press is deigned for.

E: This is the overall Diameter of the motor body. 27.7mm is what my Drill Press is deigned for.

F: This is the hole centres for the Motor mounting screws. 16mm is what my Drill Press is deigned for.

The electrical parameters do not need to be exact.

  • Mine with 12 Volts runs at 28000 RPM. (Half this speed should be sufficient)

Note!

When getting a Collet set, a drill size that should be a must is 1/8 inch (3.175mm).

  • There are many drill bit sets with a 1/8 inch shank.
  • Its a standard size for PCB Drill bits and they cam be acquired quite cheep.

When you have your Motor and Collet Chuck assemble them if needed and attach a reasonable length of cable to the Motor Terminals.

Step 2: Assembly [Motor Bracket]

Using two M2.6x0.45 Screws Fit the Motor to the Motor Bracket as shown.

Step 3: Assembly [Slide]

Using four M3 Self Tapping Screws, attach the Slide to the Motor Bracket.

Step 4: Assembly [Rack]

Using two M3 Self Tapping Screws, attach the Rack to the Slide.

Step 5: Assembly [Support Frame]

Using four M3 Self Tapping Screws, attach the Support Frame to the Base.

Step 6: Assembly [Side Braces]

Using six M3 Self Tapping Screws (3 in each), attach the two Side Braces to the Base and the Support Frame.

  • There is a Right and Left Side Brace.
  • Be sure to put the them on the correct sides, as shown.

Step 7: Assembly [Pinion Shaft]

Slide the M8 Washer onto the Pinion Shaft.

  • From the side shown, slide the Pinion Shaft into the holes shown.
  • Using one M3 Self Tapping Screw, secure the Shaft Cap to the end of the Pinion Shaft.

Step 8: Assembly [Pinion and Wheel]

Slide the Pinion Wheel (gear) onto the Pinion Shaft.

Slide the Wheel (Three spoke lever) onto the Pinion Shaft.

  • Note that the square shape of the Pinion Shaft and the square hole of the wheel have two corners removed for screws.
  • The corners need to be aligned together to form two holes for the fixing screws.

Using two M3 Self Tapping Screws and M3 Washers, secure the wheel in place.

  • The washers are needed to reduce the length of the screw going into the connection.
  • If the screws go in too far the shaft will not turn.

Step 9: Assembly [Speed Controller Brackets]

Using four M3 Self Tapping Screws, secure the two Speed Controller Brackets in place.

  • Both Speed Controller Brackets are the same.
  • The Speed Controller Brackets will only fit one way.

Step 10: Assembly [Speed Controller]

Using four M3 Self Tapping Screws, secure the Speed Controller in place.

  • I am using four M3 Washers to pack off the the PCB from the Speed Controller Brackets, as I have soldered my cables direct to the circuit board underneath.
  • Packing off the PCB also gives room for any terminals that are pocking through the PCB.

Step 11: Assembly [Motor and Slide]

Using two 3mm diameter smooth rods, 93mm long. Attach the motor and slide to the Support Frame.

  • I find it best to attach the side that does not have the Rack first.
  • The Motor and Slide assembly will swing into place for the second rod.

Once the two rods are in place, keep them there by placing a Bar Cap on each.

  • These just clip into place.

Step 12: Work Support

I have made some "V" blocks to aid drilling of round objects.

Also I have made a large block with various shaped sides to aid drilling.

Step 13: The Circuit

The circuit is straight forward.

The Speed Controller has:

  • Power In. To this I connected a Connector to match my power supply.
  • Power Out. The Motor connects to the Output.

The speed is controlled by the Potentiometer.

  • Mine came with a knob, but I found better control without the knob on.
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