This is a filament holder that attaches to the Anker M5 spool bracket. It can mount either at the top of the printer or the lower side. The filament outlet can swivel to accommodate this.

It keeps the filament completely enclosed so it does not absorb moisture from the air. The lid screws on and there is a sealing face as shown in the image. A 'Bowden' tube connects the spool holder to the printer.

There is a place to add silica desiccant, I recommend the colour changing type so you know if / when moisture has got inside.

It may protect filament even better if you add a coating of polyurethane on all parts. (I plan to print a TPU gasket to go between the main body and lid but I have not done so yet).

Supplies

AnkerMake M5 printer
Filament (PLA)
Bowden Tube 40cm (such as Capricorn brand)
'PC Push Connect Pneumatic Fitting' to accept 4mm OD Bowden tube.10mm male thread.
Super-glue (cyanoacrylate)
Grease (optional)

Step 1: Parts List and Files

Print the 5 parts:

Main Body
Lid
Filament Outlet
Outlet Threads
Nut

I have attached .STL files that you can slice for yourself. I also include .STEP files which would allow you to edit the design in CAD.

Frustratingly I can not upload Gcode because the files are too large and .zip is not allowed. Therefore I need to provide an external link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TqTtW7j518n2qQfk4gFh1th5vzSHsBpC/view?usp=share_link

Step 2: Printing Main Body and Lid

I printed the Main Body and Lid with following settings:

Layer height: 0.28mm

Support angle 80 degrees - You want support in the 3 places shown, but not all around the thread.

Support Placement: Everywhere

Brim - 15 lines

Overhanging Wall Angle: 45 Degrees

Overhanging Wall Speed: 75% (this slows down the outside wall of the threads that overhang)

Speed I slowed down to 180mm/s because I wanted to be sure it would print well, but let me know if you try at the full 250mm/s !

Step 3: Printing Ancillaries

The ancillary parts - Nut, Filament Outlet, Outlet Threads can all be printed together.

Print settings:

Layer Height: 0.2mm

Support Angle: 45 Degrees

Support Placement: Touching Buildplate

Brim - 10 Lines

Step 4: Main Body Clean-up

We now need to remove the support structures and the brim.

I like to use a metal spatula with a sharp edge. This can slide between the support materal and the main body to help cleanly release the support.

If you are using my gcode files the support materials has an 'interface layer' on the top that looks like a mesh. That needs to be removed as well.

Step 5: Lid Clean-up

The lid has a thread on the inside which must run smoothly and all the way down on the main body so that it seals. You can take a look though the hole in the side to see if the lid gets all the way closed.

It might be nessicary to clean up little blobs or loose filament on the thread as it is quite a steep over-hang to print.

Step 6: Filament Outlet Choices

The filament outlet consists of 3 parts:

Filament Outlet
Outlet Threads
Nut

The first version of this spool holder had the outlet directly on the side of the main body, but I discovered that with a full spool the angle of filament entry was not ideal, so I updated the design to have the filament outlet at a 30degree angle.

You have two options with the assembly of the filament outlet.

1) If you know for sure which orientation you will use the spool holder you may prefer to directly glue to Filament Outlet to the main body. This will provide the most ait-tight seal and be most simple.

2) On the other hand, if you might change the spool holder orientation in the future, you can glue the Filament Outlet to the Outlet Threads and then use the nut to attach with the main body.

If you choose to use the Outlet Threads and nut, I recommend adding a bit of grease at the joint to the main body to help make an air-tight seal.

Step 7: Put It Together 1/6

Use a screwdriver to remove the support material from the Filament Outlet.

Remove the brim from all parts. I find the 'Deburring Tool' useful to do this.

Ensure that the Outlet Threads and Nut run together nicely. If not, there may be a few small lumps that need trimming off the threads.

Step 8: Put It Together 2/6

Add glue to the Filament Outlet and press it on to Outlet Threads. Keep it pressed firmly on a flat surface until it is cured. This needs to make an air-tight seal.

Step 9: Put It Togetehr 3/6

The bowden tube should be able to pass all the way though the connector. My connector had a hex shape on the back, so I had to use a 4.2mm drill to make clearance for the tube to pass though. If you need to do this, be carful not to drill too deep, as the tube locking mechanism should not be damaged.

Press the connector against the hole in Filament Outlet while at the same time use a wrench to screw it in. The metal connector should cut it's own thread in to the plastic.

Step 10: Put It Together 4/6

Put a little grease on the main body and fit the filament outlet in to the hole. Use the nut to fix it tightly together. Wipe away any grease that escaped.

Step 11: Put It Together 5/6

Unscrew the existing spool holder metal bar and keep the screw and main bracket.

Use the screw and an M4 nut to fix the new spool holder to the main bracket. You may need pliers or a socket to hold the nut so the screw can be tightened.

Step 12: Put It Together 6/6

Mount the new spool holder on the AnkerMake M5.

Use the bowden tube to make a path for filament to exit the spool holder and enter the printer.

The tube should ass a little way inside the spool holder to provide strain relief and a guide for the filament entry.

When unloading or loading it can help to release the bowden tube at the printer and handle the filament directly.

Add some desiccant in the spool holder to keep things super dry.

Happy printing with dry filament!

Introduction: AnkerMake M5 Dry Box Spool Holder