Introduction: Cedar (Cigar?) Box Speaker Box
Inspired by the Munny speakers, but not willing to spend more than $10, here's my instructable using old computer speakers, a wood box from the thrift store, and lots of hot glue.
Step 1: Salvaged Parts
-Ugly old speakers. One with circuit board, control knobs/buttons.
-Cedar box. I got this one at a thrift store for $.50. I've seen various kinds of pine(?) boxes at Michael's craft stores.
-A couple small hinges.
-A set of feet (adhesive or screw-in).
-Cedar box. I got this one at a thrift store for $.50. I've seen various kinds of pine(?) boxes at Michael's craft stores.
-A couple small hinges.
-A set of feet (adhesive or screw-in).
Step 2: Cutting Speaker Holes
My tools: hot glue gun; drill for pilot holes; X-acto knife; hack saw; a Leatherman's saw blade; round file for finishing (time to cut: 1-2 hrs)
What you really want: a hole saw. A 2.5" hole saw would have been over $20, but it would be fast! (time to cut: 1 min.)
I first tried doing this from the inside because I wanted to be able to see the box's sides; however, cutting out the holes from the inside risks splitting the face of the box.
So I switched to drawing the speaker outlines on the top of the box. BE SURE THE CIRCUIT BOARD CAN SIT BETWEEN THE SPEAKERS!
Without the hole saw, I tried cutting with just the saw but changed over to sawing radiuses, rough sawing the circumference, and then finishing with the X-acto and round file. It looks awful, was awful to do, and made me wish I had spent $20 on a hole saw.
Not perfectly round, but as good as I could do without the hole saw.
What you really want: a hole saw. A 2.5" hole saw would have been over $20, but it would be fast! (time to cut: 1 min.)
I first tried doing this from the inside because I wanted to be able to see the box's sides; however, cutting out the holes from the inside risks splitting the face of the box.
So I switched to drawing the speaker outlines on the top of the box. BE SURE THE CIRCUIT BOARD CAN SIT BETWEEN THE SPEAKERS!
Without the hole saw, I tried cutting with just the saw but changed over to sawing radiuses, rough sawing the circumference, and then finishing with the X-acto and round file. It looks awful, was awful to do, and made me wish I had spent $20 on a hole saw.
Not perfectly round, but as good as I could do without the hole saw.
Step 3: Interior, Speakers Hole Covers
After painting outside. I wanted to hide the speakers and grabbed some leftover fabric and a hot glue gun. Cut fabric to fit inside of box. Simple.
Step 4: Glue in Speakers
Applied more hot glue to front edges of speakers and pressed them against the fabric over the holes.
The circuit board will be glued to the opposite side of the box, but DON T GLUE THE CIRCUIT BOARD YET. I drew lines to mark where it would go and where I needed to drill holes for the knobs.
The circuit board will be glued to the opposite side of the box, but DON T GLUE THE CIRCUIT BOARD YET. I drew lines to mark where it would go and where I needed to drill holes for the knobs.
Step 5: More Holes! (button, Knobs, Etc.)
The hardest part: more holes!
This was, ultimately, done thru trial and error. Lots of error! The volume and treble buttons were angled, so I couldn't drill straight holes, and then the LED and headphone jacks were on extended bits of circuit board -- higher than the knobs and power button.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO SPLIT THE WOOD!
I used the round file to smooth out my work.
The circuit board is still loose through all the hole-making.
The power and input cables also need a hole (bottom of box).
This was, ultimately, done thru trial and error. Lots of error! The volume and treble buttons were angled, so I couldn't drill straight holes, and then the LED and headphone jacks were on extended bits of circuit board -- higher than the knobs and power button.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO SPLIT THE WOOD!
I used the round file to smooth out my work.
The circuit board is still loose through all the hole-making.
The power and input cables also need a hole (bottom of box).
Step 6: Gluing Circuit Board and Speaker Cable
Once everything fits in the holes, make sure you can still plug in all the cables. It was a tight fit in this box. With all the cables plugged in, glue down the circuit board.
Since one speaker held the board, it only had the input cable (green, running outside the box) and the power cable (longer, gray, also running outside the box).
The other speaker, then, had a long cable that got sound from the board (gray). Ideally, you might cut and splice a shorter cable, but I had space and plenty of hot glue to spare!
Since one speaker held the board, it only had the input cable (green, running outside the box) and the power cable (longer, gray, also running outside the box).
The other speaker, then, had a long cable that got sound from the board (gray). Ideally, you might cut and splice a shorter cable, but I had space and plenty of hot glue to spare!
Step 7: Hinges and Feet
Hinges (nonfunctional) on both sides.
Feet screw on.
Feet screw on.
Step 8: All Done!
The finished product -- just 10 hours later! Seriously, get the hole saw!!!