Introduction: Circuit Bending a Casio SK-1
This is a complete tutorial on how to circuit bend a Casio SK-1.
Only a few simple materials and minor Soldering skills are needed to create a truly unique instrument.
Case and modification layout is what I decided to do but there are so many options... Poking around the board and finding some different bends and other manipulations is welcomed and encouraged.
NOTE: NOTHING IS GUARANTEED WITH CIRCUIT BENDING AND YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR PERFORMING THESE MODS
... that being said please message me or email me at www.greightbit.com with any questions.
There is also a video tutorial at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WPwZds3W_A for more info
video of sound demo at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjX-quVDuNg
Only a few simple materials and minor Soldering skills are needed to create a truly unique instrument.
Case and modification layout is what I decided to do but there are so many options... Poking around the board and finding some different bends and other manipulations is welcomed and encouraged.
NOTE: NOTHING IS GUARANTEED WITH CIRCUIT BENDING AND YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR PERFORMING THESE MODS
... that being said please message me or email me at www.greightbit.com with any questions.
There is also a video tutorial at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WPwZds3W_A for more info
video of sound demo at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjX-quVDuNg
Step 1: Materials, Removing Case, and Preparing to Bend
All you need to build this awesome project is a few simple components.
BOM:
1x Casio SK-1
1x LTC1799
13x On/Off switch (I used one rocker switch for pitch)
22x RCA jacks
¼” (3.5mm) Stereo output jack
1x 100k Potentiometer
1x knob (for potentiometer)
1x Thin plastic plate
1x Multicolored back light
some solder
a bunch of wire...
and patience... lots of patience.
...Remove back of keyboard and set screws aside.
Place some tape over the exposed battery compartment.
and lets get bending.
BOM:
1x Casio SK-1
1x LTC1799
13x On/Off switch (I used one rocker switch for pitch)
22x RCA jacks
¼” (3.5mm) Stereo output jack
1x 100k Potentiometer
1x knob (for potentiometer)
1x Thin plastic plate
1x Multicolored back light
some solder
a bunch of wire...
and patience... lots of patience.
...Remove back of keyboard and set screws aside.
Place some tape over the exposed battery compartment.
and lets get bending.
Step 2: Mapping Bends and Soldering Them Up on the Board
Here is an overview of the board.
-I like to print out a pic of the circuit board so I can mark bends easily and organize them.
-Tin (pre-solder) the wires before attaching them to the board for less contact time with the soldering iron.
-These are just some good bends that I have found. Feel free to poke around and add a few of your own.
-I like to print out a pic of the circuit board so I can mark bends easily and organize them.
-Tin (pre-solder) the wires before attaching them to the board for less contact time with the soldering iron.
-These are just some good bends that I have found. Feel free to poke around and add a few of your own.
Step 3: Soldering Controls to Board Points
Feel free to solder the controls to the points on the board as you find them. I like to color coat the wires to keep bends organized.
Step 4: Connecting Pitch Modification
Cut trace in between the two points.
Connect the left pin to the middle of switch
Connect the right pin to one of the out ends of switch
Connect other end of switch to the clock output of the LTC1799
Connect the left pin to the middle of switch
Connect the right pin to one of the out ends of switch
Connect other end of switch to the clock output of the LTC1799
Step 5: Marking Holes in Case and Making Room for Bends
The layout for the case can be altered to suit your bends I choose this layout.
I removed the speaker for some extra room.
Mark the inside of case with a marker so you know where the screw holes and other things are that may get in the way.
Drill from the inside and start with small holes and enlarge with bigger bits or a dremel tool.
Smooth out holes and clear away debris.
I removed the speaker for some extra room.
Mark the inside of case with a marker so you know where the screw holes and other things are that may get in the way.
Drill from the inside and start with small holes and enlarge with bigger bits or a dremel tool.
Smooth out holes and clear away debris.
Step 6: Installing Connections and Bends
Mount switches and use hot glue to space and keep straight (if needed)
Solder up points to whatever switches you desire and clean up long wires if needed.
Mount Potentiometer and Pitch switch into case.
Mount Patchbay plate or drill holes directly into speaker area.
Assemble Patch bay into case before soldering board points.
Solder up points to whatever switches you desire and clean up long wires if needed.
Mount Potentiometer and Pitch switch into case.
Mount Patchbay plate or drill holes directly into speaker area.
Assemble Patch bay into case before soldering board points.
Step 7: Alternative Mods and Goodies
Because I used a clear plastic plate, I added a color changing back light.
If you just drill into the case, the back light is unneeded.
Additional options include:
LED or back light in case
Potentiometer patchbay additions for variable bends.
controller input
video output
... etc.
As you can see the list goes on and on for durable bends and other creative ideas.
If you just drill into the case, the back light is unneeded.
Additional options include:
LED or back light in case
Potentiometer patchbay additions for variable bends.
controller input
video output
... etc.
As you can see the list goes on and on for durable bends and other creative ideas.
Step 8: Final Clean Up and Testing
Now that the connections are all in, start testing unit by switching on bends one at a time.
If all is working properly then begin to close case up taking note of where the wires are so you don't cause a unwanted short.
Don't force case closed... if you used this layout the case should close up very nicely with no interference
If all is working properly then begin to close case up taking note of where the wires are so you don't cause a unwanted short.
Don't force case closed... if you used this layout the case should close up very nicely with no interference
Step 9: Plug in and Get Down! Congrats!
Hopefully you have made it to this page after building a completely altered device.