Concrete Leaves for Gardens or Fountains

Intro: Concrete Leaves for Gardens or Fountains

Kindly vote for this in the Concrete Casting Contest!  Thanks ever so much. ( :

This instructable is on behalf of Madeline Werner, the caster of these lovely leaves.  Being inbetween jobs, I have the time (and inclination) to do it!   This is an easy, cheap, and fun way to make a lasting addition to any landscape. We hope you enjoy our first instructable.  Feedback welcome. ( :

Materials needed:

-Large, fresh, veiny leaves such as rhubarb (don't worry if they have a few holes) or smaller like hosta
-50 lbs. Play Sand for forming
-Plastic wrap, food storage type
-50--80 lb. Bag of Concrete (sand aggregate only)
 -Nitrile gloves
-Spray and hand paints, brushes, etc.
-Water sealer for concrete

Optional: Portland Cement, concrete colorant, wire to coil and set for hanging, chicken wire or drywall mesh joint tape for more strength

STEP 1: Gather Leaves

Put the shout out to all you know, we offer a free finished leaf to anyone who donates to the cause.  I've even stopped by a commercial farm, and they were happy to oblige.

Keep in water until ready to use, but no more than a couple of days.

STEP 2: Prep the Casting Area

Maddie started off doing them on the ground in the carport, then I built her a table in her shop.  (Much easier on the back!)  Extra large are still done on the ground.

Press the leaf on a pile of sand to desired shape, mounding or flatening. Remove the leaf, then cover the sand with plastic wrap.  Return the leaf to its original spot.  Prep all leaves to be cast before the next step.

STEP 3: Mix the Concrete

Maddie has found that adding Portland cement (Up to a coffee can per 40 lbs.) makes a stronger leaf, and is the easiest way to get the water/concrete to the nice pasty consistancy if you've added too much water. A 1/2 bag (about 40 lbs,) of concrete will do 5 medium sized leaves.  We call approx. 18" across the widest point "medium" sized.  12" and 24" would be small and large.

STEP 4: Pile It On

Still talking about a medium leaf, it is about 3/4  to 1" thick along the rib, tapering to about 3/8" thick at the edges. Rolling the wrap can neaten up the edges.  Do the thickness in two steps if you plan to add the hanging wire, or mesh tape/chicken wire.  The latter advised if hanging, and for large to monster leaves. 

STEP 5: Let It Be for at Least a Day, 2 Is Better

2 is better!  (Water bottle is for scale)

STEP 6: Pealing Takes the Most Time!

We've tried compressed air, and a jet of water (from garden hose sprayer).  It seems that patience works best.  The first one still needs work. Needle nose pliers, picks, and stiff brushes can help. 

STEP 7: Painting

No holds barred here, whatever you want goes.  We've been liking the metalic look lately, with some accent color in the veins. A sponge for blending works nicely.  Finish with the water seal front and back after the paint has dried and you're done!  Resealing once a year is highly recommended.  One warning, if you bring one to work or a gathering to give to somebody...you will be making more!

Comments

[winter6591]

May I ask what type of paint and/or colors were used on your leaf? I love the combination.
Thank you

[sharonnah591]

Rustoleum metal colors, plus cinnamon.

[Catherine MacDonald]

What's the purpose of the food wrap?

[sharonnah59]

You would have a sandy edge hardened in the concrete if not used. Plus it lets you roll the edges (so it is thicker/stronger) as it sets.

[Sumethat]

I want to make 5 of these beautiful pieces of art this weekend and want to make a tall fountain. I don't know how to mount them. Please share your ideas on how to support/mount these leafs on to a metal stand

[CarolineT27]

I use 8 or 10 inch rebar set in a concrete base. For a simple stand you would use 1, for something more elaborate, you might want want to get someone to weld the rods. I leave or drill holes in my leaves and then cement them in, either covering the bar completely or leaving some areas exposed for interest. The most important thing is allowing the leaves to cure as slowly as possible to increase the strength. See ex below.I have set the rod through the base bowl, and built up a concrete base underneath which doubles as a stabiliser.

[cand123]

very nice

[MaryP148]

What I used on my fountain leaves were 1/2" rings. I set them partially into my cement leaf as it was drying, plus I had pre drilled a small hole in the ring for a set screw. I put them on any post that's 1/2" as long as it is strong enough to support them and, I can put the leaves any direction I want.

[cand123]

Do you have pictures of the 1/2" rings that you used. Thank you Dana

[sharonnah59]

Without seeing the stand...hard to say! Assuming there is a flat surface on it, you could use concrete to make a small "stand" for the leaf, perhaps using a plastic coffee can cut down to a desired tipping angle as a mold. (Then let it harden on the concrete leaf, then remove the can.)

[LaurieK3]

I made a elephant ear leaf and It has cracked on one of the side veins. Is there any way to fit it?

[LilaB5]

Gorilla glue

[MaryP148]

flex seal works great

[sharonnah59]

Gorilla Glue works great for this. Just remember it expands, so don't use too much on the top side.

[MaryP148]

Hi, Can I make a silicone mold from a leaf that I casted a year ago

[CarminB1]

So dope! Thanks

[leafjeannie]

For larger leaves, how do you reinforce them? I've heard of drywall mesh tape and chicken wire, but I'm not sure how to use either one. Thank you.

[sharonnah59]

You can also use screen door material. Just cut where it bunches up on curves. Apply 1/2 thickness of concrete, press in reinforcement material (2" away from edges) then add the final thickness of concrete.

[CorryD]

Love these. Thank you for the tutorial. I shared on my Pinterest and Facebook page.

[littlehoneybunny]

Swallowtail seeds sells dinosaur food seed (giant rhubarb leaves) n going to grow my plant and harvest leaves for fountaiin. Am unsure about how to stack secure leaves for fountai . . . . Any suggestions