Introduction: Converting Cybot to Run on Four 3.7 Volt Rechargeable Batteries

By Tim's Place
About: Retired due to health. Oldish. My background is in Structural Engineering. Also smith of many trades. The majority of my project will be what can be made sat in a chair within arm's reach, on a plotter, 3D pri…

When Cybot was issued many years ago, the main thing that let it down, was power.

It was powered with the normal 1.5v zinc batteries, 1.2v NiMH batteries could not be used due to the way the power was distributed.

Now we have the 3.7v LiPo batteries and many cheep and small bucks that will convert the voltage.

I decided to convert my original Cybots to run on 3.7v rechargeable batteries.

The video shows my Cybot running on rechargeable Li-Po batteries.

Having the 3.7v LiPo batteries makes a big difference to the performance of Cybot.

Movement and responsiveness is much better.

Step 1: Components

4 Number 3.7 volt Li-Po batteries, I'm using 1200mAh. (Other sizes will be OK, but if too large, they won't fit inside Cybot)

4 Number connectors with leads that fit the battery connectors.

2 Number Bucks, I'm using MH-MINI-360 DC-DC Buck

Step 2: Cybot's Power Upgrade

This modification is for Cybots that have the power upgrade from issues 53 and 54.

I also recommend it has the 8v regulator fix that was issued with issue 59.

Some later released versions of the power board came with the 8v regulator incorporated on the board.

The images show one board without the 8v regulator, which needs the extra fix, and one board with the 8v regulator added, which does not need the fix.

Step 3: Adaptor Cable Part 1

The first thing to do is make the Adaptor Cable:

Trim the wires on the battery connectors and join as shown.

Step 4: Adaptor Cable Part 2

Next trim the remaining wires and solder them to the Bucks as shown.

Step 5: Adaptor Cable Part 3

Next add cables to the other side of the Bucks.

Step 6: Adaptor Cable Part 4

Next Join the two Bucks in the following way.

Step 7: Retreving the Power Plug, Part 1

The next thing to do, is get the plug from the 8xAA Battery Box:

First remove Batteries and the four screws holding the front panels of Cybot.

Step 8: Retreving the Power Plug, Part 2

Carefully lift the front panels, and remove the battery plug, the two screws holding the power board, and the four screws holding the 8xAA Battery Box.

Step 9: Retreving the Power Plug, Part 3

Now remove the 8xAA Battery box and cut the plug from it with about 30mm wire.

Step 10: Adaptor Cable Part 5

Now solder the plug to the two Bucks.

Step 11: Setting the Voltage Part 1

Now the voltage needs setting on each Buck.

Each Buck needs to be set individually.

Connect four fully charged batteries to each of the sockets.

Step 12: Setting the Voltage Part 2

Using the adjustment potentiometer, carefully set the First Buck to 6 Volts.

Step 13: Setting the Voltage Part 3

Using the adjustment potentiometer, carefully set the Second Buck to 6 Volts.

Step 14: Setting the Voltage Part 4

After setting both Bucks to 6 volt. Connecting the Volt Meter to Red and Black should read 12 Volt.

Step 15: Setting the Voltage Part 5

Now that the Voltage is set, insulate the Bucks with tape.

(Leave the ends open so air can flow through)

Step 16: Fitting Part 1

Now the new battery lead is complete, disconnect the batteries from the lead and connect it to the Power Board inside Cybot.

I held the Power Board in place, against the other boards, with a hair band. (any sort of elastic band or Nylon Plastic Cable Ties will do)

Step 17: Fitting Part 2

After securing the Power Board in place, refit the front panels of Cybot.

Then the batteries can be re-connected to the new cable. (Batteries can be held together with a band or tie)

Step 18: Fitting Part 3

Place the batteries inside Cybot.

Fit the Battery Lid.

Step 19: All Done

All done, ready to rumble.

NOTE!
The Bucks are fitted to the batteries before the switch on the Cybot.
Un-Plug the Batteries from the Bucks when not in use.
The Bucks will drain the batteries even if the Cybot is switched off.
(If LiPo Batteries are drained below 3 volt, they may be rendered useless).

Step 20: I Have a 3D Printer

I decided to make some 3D Printed parts to hold the Power Board and the Batteries in place.

Step 21: 3D Parts

Here are the STL files for the parts.

I printed them with PLA.

Upper Power Board Clip.stl

Lower Power Board Clip.stl

Li-Po_Battery_Holder.stl

Step 22: Fitting 3d Parts

The larger Power Board Clip fits the lower part of the Board.

Clips attached to the Power Board using original screws.

The battery support is a modified Battery Cover (Lid).