Cylindrical Leather Case

Friends, I want to introduce you to the production of a cylindrical case made of leather, with the connection of the leather butt and sewing a round bottom into the cylinder.

I had a thick skin, 2.2 - 2.5 mm thick. The leather has an untreated inner surface and a rather loose structure, which made it impossible to process the edges of the product. All this gives the case a brutal look, which I like!

In this case, I keep a hairdressing machine with accessories.

Supplies

Materials - leather, waxed thread.

Tools - a sharp cutter with replaceable blades, a metal ruler, a triangle with a right angle, two leather needles, a punch, an awl.

Step 1: Markup, Cutting

I didn't make a special drawing, as the shape is very simple. I determined the size of the case approximately. The height is slightly longer than the length of the object that I want to put there. The circumference (width of the pattern) was determined by bending a piece of leather around this object.

I marked a rectangle on the skin with a right-angle triangle and a steel ruler. I drew lines with an awl, without pressing hard. Cut the lines with a cutter. The photo shows how I made the layout for the cover after the case was made. Here the complexity of marking is that if you measure the circumference of the finished body with a thin flexible tailor's ruler and cut the workpiece to this size, it will be smaller than necessary! This will happen because the skin has a large thickness. I did this. Approximately measured the circumference with a leather strip, from the same piece. Then I marked out the rectangle, added another centimeter to the margin of error, and cut it out. Then I began to bend this blank around the body, and mark it on the finished product. I had to make a cut to fit it exactly twice, gradually reducing the size.

Step 2: Marking and Punching Holes

First, using a special tool, I drew a line for the holes parallel to the edge of the workpiece. If there is no such tool, you can use a ruler and an awl. The distance from the line to the edge is made equal to about two thicknesses of the skin. Now I see that it would be better to do a little less.

Second, I marked the holes with a punch. Third, you need to punch holes through. If the punch had a round cross-section of the tooth, it would be possible to penetrate the skin with it. But a rhombic hole is not a good fit for a single thread. It is better for a double seam, which is not required here. So then I pierced the skin with an ordinary round awl, on both sides, because the skin is thick, and the tip of the awl is conical. I also saw the method in YouTube, when such holes are drilled with a screwdriver with a drill of ~1.5 mm. The holes must be marked on two sides, which must be sewn together. Also, the holes need to be marked and made on the side where we will sew the cover. Here, the distance from the edge of the skin to the line of holes must be equal to the thickness of the skin from which the cover will be made!

Step 3: The Stitching of the Case

Sewed the body with two needles for the skin. I did it crosswise, like lacing shoes. At the same time, I observed that the edges of the skin were butt-to-butt, and the thread was quite tightly tightened. Nothing complicated here.

Step 4: Marking, Cutting and Sewing the Bottom.

You need to mark and cut a circle of leather that will fit snugly into the finished cylinder. Here I couldn't think of anything better than finding a round object that would fit snugly into the finished cylinder, and then drawing a circle using that object. It appeared to be a сup for espresso)

To mark the holes in the bottom, first, a used the tool shown in the previous step to draw a circle at the same distance from the edge, equal to the thickness of the skin. Then I placed it at the end of the cylinder, where it should be. Inside the cylinder, I inserted a tube with some household chemicals, so that the bottom does not fall inside. With the help of an awl, I carefully marked the holes in the lid, exactly opposite the holes that are already in the case. Then I took out this circle, put it on the wooden board, and pierced the holes with an awl. Sewed the bottom of the way "over the edge". Sometimes he would first pierce the wall, pull the needle inside, then pierce the bottom, and so on. Sometimes he punctured both the circle and the wall at once. When it is difficult to find a hole from the inside with a needle, I did the following. I inserted an awl into the hole from the outside, found the tip of the awl from the inside with the tip of the needle, and poked the needle through the hole to meet the awl. In the process, you need to make sure that the bottom fits well against the wall, and also tighten the thread with moderate force.