Introduction: DIY Desk Lamp
Want to add some style to your space? I got you covered with this DIY contour lamp. This lamp is made from plywood wrapped with iron-on veneer. I used an LED puck light, but any light can be used. It's also equipped with a toggle switch and a cool mahogany lamp base. The parts and tools used are listed below:
Parts used:
-Puck Lights http://amzn.to/2oAsGSl
-Veneer
I used red oak http://amzn.to/2xN8uTj
See more options http://amzn.to/2xMKQpU
Scrap Mahogany
Shrink Tube- http://amzn.to/2x3zE9V
Light switch - http://amzn.to/2x4wRbi
Power Supply - http://amzn.to/2fGjgEF
Tools used:
Chest Vest - Link
Jawhourse Portable Material station- Link
Jig Saw – Link
T-Track Flex-Hold Arm - Link
Router - Link
Router bit kit- Link
Router table- Link
Push bloc- Link
Ryobi Bench sander- Link
Drum sander kit - Link
Mini Travel Iron - Link
Soldiering iron kit - Link
Drill- Link
Step 1: Shaping the Lamp
First: I used a small sheet of 3/4-inch oak plywood. Then I marked out a rectangle (12.5in by 14in )
Second: I made a marked 3-inch from each corner. Then used a paint can or a round object to create an arch in the corner.
Third: Cut out the shape with a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Stay close to the line. This way you can sand the wood to the line.
Step 2: Duplicating the Shapes
If you don't have a router, just duplicate the same shape three times the same way.
If you have a router, then you can use a flush bit. Just use two-sided tape to hold the nice recent cut piece of plywood. Then shape the second piece of plywood and follow the same steps for the third.
Mark a line along the inside. I made a quick jig to make my mark. If you have a marking tool you can use if for this. Refer to the video to see how this was done. After cutting out the inside, I can then sand it down to the line I marked.
Then transfer the shape over to the other plywood using the same method used to duplicate the interior. I ended up shaping the fourth piece of 1/4-inch plywood to make the lamp frame thicker. Once all the pieces are ready, glue them together using wood glue. Clamp and allow enough time for the glue to dry.
Step 3: Applying Veneer
Cut the veneer so you have a bit of an overhang. This way you can trim the veneer to the lamp frame.
I applied the veneer to the interior first -- at the location where I plan to install the light. This is where I started and end the veneer. With the idea, the light will hide the joint. After ironing on the veneer, you can use an edge trimmer or a utility knife to trim the edge.
Step 4: Adding the Electronics
At the veneer joint, center the light up and drill a hole for the wire to pass through. Next, router a groove from the outside of the lamp frame from the top to the bottom. If you don't have a router you can chisel this out. Then, install the light. Route the wire in the grove that was cut into the frame.
Then, chisel out a hole for the on-and-off rocker switch (as shown in the picture). Next, drill a hole near the switch for the power supply wire.
Wiring the Switch:
Next, separate the wire from both the light and the power supply. Attach the positive leg on the light switch. (The power supply on one leg and the light on the other.) Then splice the two negative legs together. I also used Heat shrink to prevent the wires from touching.
Wrap the veneer along the outside of the lamp frame. Make sure the veneer meets at the bottom -- this way your seam can be hidden.
Step 5: Making a Base
I had some scrap mahogany on hand, and I used It to make a simple lamp base.
The base can be as long as you like. I made this one 6.5 inches. The ends were cut at 30 degrees.
Then I routed out the center for the lamp to sit.
Step 6: End Results
