Introduction: DIY FLY TYING VISE
DIY Rotating Fly Tying Vise
Supplies
DIY Fly Tying Vise
Rotating vise for fly tying
1) Hacksaw for all metal cuts done in a drill press or other vise
2) Used vcr motor ball bearing and fitting rod non-threaded rod for rotating component in ball bearing housing
3) Drill press
4) 7/32” drill bit for metal drill before taps 1/16” in drill bit for partitioning jaws for better bite
5) Forstner bit just smaller than ball bearings
6) Forstner bit just bigger than the vertical support rod
7) 1/2” support vertical round stock
8) 1/4”-20 material, you can get longer 1/4”-20 lag or carrier bolts and cut them desired lengths or buy set screws from hardware.
9) hardened steel for jaws
10) files or angle grinder for making and rounding jaws
11) vise for hold material still
12) Jb weld
13) Epoxytwo part
14) lathe or purchased round hardwood for housing and support section
Rotating vise for fly tying
1) Hacksaw for all metal cuts done in a drill press or other vise
2) Used vcr motor ball bearing and fitting rod non-threaded rod for rotating component in ball bearing housing
3) Drill press
4) 7/32” drill bit for metal drill before taps 1/16” in drill bit for partitioning jaws for better bite
5) Forstner bit just smaller than ball bearings
6) Forstner bit just bigger than the vertical support rod
7) 1/2” support vertical round stock
8) 1/4”-20 material, you can get longer 1/4”-20 lag or carrier bolts and cut them desired lengths or buy set screws from hardware.
9) hardened steel for jaws
10) files or angle grinder for making and rounding jaws
11) vise for hold material still
12) Jb weld
13) Epoxytwo part
14) lathe or purchased round hardwood for housing and support section
Step 1: Lathe
Use hardwood for lathecomponents you can choose the specs... just has to be round preferably.
Step 2: Brass Components
Round bar 1/2” to 3/4” cut it at 45 degree angle. Then flip it so that is hangs at a 45 degree angle.
I used jb weld and set screws to harden and solidify the vise. Drill and tap all set screws in photo with 7/32 drill bit and tap for 1/4”. Works well with jb weld and some clamps holding it tight enough to prevent movement.
Cut out fitting butt joint for the jaws to fit. I did two cuts: on the fitting line first, then Did an across X cut which allowed me to use a file and pop the brass parts out. See the pic... look closely at the junction of the jaws. Held in place with set screw, epoxy, and a nut 1/4” that was cut in half with hacksaw, sanded flat, for better looks.
I used jb weld and set screws to harden and solidify the vise. Drill and tap all set screws in photo with 7/32 drill bit and tap for 1/4”. Works well with jb weld and some clamps holding it tight enough to prevent movement.
Cut out fitting butt joint for the jaws to fit. I did two cuts: on the fitting line first, then Did an across X cut which allowed me to use a file and pop the brass parts out. See the pic... look closely at the junction of the jaws. Held in place with set screw, epoxy, and a nut 1/4” that was cut in half with hacksaw, sanded flat, for better looks.
Step 3: Drill Hardwood
Drill through middle of your round lathed hardwood all the way through.
Then use a drill bit to fit the housing for the ball bearing. Remember drill a little smaller width than the actual size of the ball bearing.
Then use a drill bit to fit the housing for the ball bearing. Remember drill a little smaller width than the actual size of the ball bearing.
Step 4: Jaws
Hardened steel was used. Cut it long enough so that at your pre established specs the fly will be in line with the axis of rotation for the rod through the ball berings. Angle grinder it to your specs,drill tips first though before angle grinder with 1/16” drill bit so there is a small space between the jaws to hold the fly.
Tip: when finished, use a bastard file to lightly rough up the jaw tips to mitigate sliding.
FYI near the front-rear side of the jaws the hole drill is actually 1/4” on the rear jaw (untapped), but 7/32” on front jaw, let’s the 1/4” screw go through the rear jaw and then screw into and hold the front jaw.
Epoxy all threaded 1/4” material to wood and let rest before screwing into tapped holes
Place a small rubber band at back of jaws once finished to for the jaws to open when the tightening screw is turned left ( when placing hook into vise)
Tip: when finished, use a bastard file to lightly rough up the jaw tips to mitigate sliding.
FYI near the front-rear side of the jaws the hole drill is actually 1/4” on the rear jaw (untapped), but 7/32” on front jaw, let’s the 1/4” screw go through the rear jaw and then screw into and hold the front jaw.
Epoxy all threaded 1/4” material to wood and let rest before screwing into tapped holes
Place a small rubber band at back of jaws once finished to for the jaws to open when the tightening screw is turned left ( when placing hook into vise)
Step 5: Base
Choose a flat base or a clamp style base. This is 1/2” round bar from Menards. I put a decorative lathe part around it. Epoxy it to the base.
You could also use threaded rod through a fitting or tapped clamp.
You could also use threaded rod through a fitting or tapped clamp.
Step 6: Drill and Tap
Drill and tap all holes 7/32” drill bit
Tap with 1/4”-20
You can put hardener anywhere you don’t want it to move, such as the brass components 45 degree joint where the hole is made at the end of the support brass piece and another hold made on the 45 degree price so that the mate together and tighten together with a set screw and some jb weld
Tap with 1/4”-20
You can put hardener anywhere you don’t want it to move, such as the brass components 45 degree joint where the hole is made at the end of the support brass piece and another hold made on the 45 degree price so that the mate together and tighten together with a set screw and some jb weld
Step 7: Information
This is just the same type of vise I made previously with better fitting bearing and better working rotating components. See DIY Fly Tying Vise for previous works and more details pictures of jaws etc.