Ender 3 V3 SE Enclosure

So here is my take on an Ender 3 V3 SE Ikea Lack enclosure. I have only used 2 Lacks, but it is entirely possible to do it with more.

Since the printer is relatively new, I could not find a proper set of instructions, so here are mine. It is my first ever post on Instructables, so please bear with me. Also, feedback and constructive criticism is very welcomed; same with suggestions.

To better fit the printer in the enclosure, consider replacing the bed cable holder with this (can also be found below, Step 2).

Before we start, I want to credit Eric Ace (Shoyun) from Thingiverse for all the files.

Supplies

You will need:

TOOLS:

• 3D printer (I have used my V3 SE, Cura's standard profile- 0.4 mm, 0.28mm layer height, 10% grid infill)
• screwdriver
• drill
• drill bits (I used metal 2mm, 4mm, 6mm)
• saw (to cut the corner of the plexiglass)
• marker
• deburring tool (optional)

HARDWARE:

• screws (I used 30x25 mm wood screw)
• some thicker screws to hold the spool holder
• 4mm, 4 pieces of 50x44.5 plexiglass/acrylic (best to buy 2 sheets of 50x100 and ask the hardware store to cut it: for me, the plexiglass was 30$ and cutting it was 1$; also, I advise you to cut it a little smaller, so it will get in easily)
• 2 Ikea Lacks (you can also use 3; you just need to print twice the Back_links.stl and Right_front_link.stl, Left_front_link.stl)
• a very short PTFE tube piece (mine was 6mm outer diameter with 4mm)
• wall plugs (with the screws)
• 4 corner brace angle bracket
• Wago connectors (3 pieces)

ADDITIONAL ACCESORIES:

• LED lights
• camera (I am waiting for the Nebula Pad to come back in stock)
• thermometer

Step 1: Assemble the Lacks

This step is straightforward, as you just need to assemble the 2 Ikea Lacks.

Step 2: Print and Attach the Holders

Print the holders as it follows:

• 2 x Back_links.stl
• 1 x Right_front_link.stl
• 1 x Left_front_link.stl
• 2 x Top_back_links.stl
• 1 x Top_Right_front_link.stl
• 1 x Top_Left_front_link.stl
• 2 x Hinge.stl (print them upside-down to avoid supports)
• 1 x Door_knob.stl (the onlly file that requires supports)

You can find all the files here.

After you print all the holders, attach them to the tables:

Step 3: Adding the Plexiglass Walls

You will need 4 sheets of 50x44.5, 4mm thick plexiglass. If you want to use either 3mm or 5mm, search for the files here.

To fit the plexiglass, you will have to cut a piece from the corner, using the handsaw (around 30x5mm).

Then, peel only the corners of the protective film, so it will be easy to remove afterwards.

Repeat this process with 3 sheets of acrylic, then screw in the top table.

Step 4: Filament Feeder

You can either feed the filament from the side, thru the plexiglass, or from the top, drilling a hole thru the Lack, and then adding a guide and a filament holder, which you can find on Thingiverse, Printables and any other sites.

To feed the filament from the side, you can drill a hole in the plexiglass (6mm).

I recommend drilling it a little more to the front than the middle, so the printer won't have any issues to drag it.

Also, a small piece of PTFE tube is added in the hole, so the filament doesn't get damaged while it is getting pulled.

Then, you can screw in the original filament holder on the side of the table; as you can see, it should be roughly in line with the Z axis of the printer.

Step 5: Power Supply

Drill a hole (mine was 13mm) in the corner of a wall, preferably bottom left of the panel on the left, because that is where the printer has the power input.

To get the cable thru the hole, you have to cut it, and then you can use Wago connectors to connect the wires.

Step 6: (optional) Adding LED Lights and Camera

Thru the hole you have drilled earlier, insert the cables for the accessories you want to add.

On the bottom of the top rack, I have added some cheap (5$) LED lights. 5 meters are enough.

I am pretty sure that the glue on the strip will dry over time, and maybe then I will put a better light source, that would be fixed in screws.

For the remote, I have designed and printed a holder (accommodates remote with the sizes 85x52mm).

The camera and the thermometer are Sonoff, and are just placed on the bottom Lack

Step 7: Attaching the Enclosure to the Wall

This step is optional, but highly recommended.

I also recommend taking care whether the tables are leveled, so it doesn't mess up the printer's leveling.

Put the enclosure in position, next to the wall. Using the marker/pencil, draw a line, just below the lacks.

Mark the holes from the angle brackets and drill the holes.

Now screw the tables on the walls, and you are ready to go to the next step.

Step 8: The Door

Mark the place you want the hinges to be on the plexiglass, then drill the holes/

To avoid cracking it, consider drilling the holes with various sizes drill bits: I have used 2mm and then 4 mm to drill the holes, the I screwed the hinges in.

Same for the knob.

Step 9: Peel the Protective Film and Print!

Now peel the protective film (if you have resisted until this moment), and start printing!