Introduction: Epson 1770W LCD Projector Overheating? Repair It!
Once again I am trying out another way of writing an Instructable. I took a picture of every step in order generated a GIF that apparently takes a while to load so if you don't see the above GIF then give it some time or check out the pictures in the following steps.
Intro, At work we have 2, Epson 1770w 1280x800 LCD projectors. At the 150 hour point, both projectors started exhibiting issues with the 3 fans that provide airflow to the bulb. As the bulb is rated at 4000 hours of use our limited time of total in service was not justifying sending these projectors off to the recycler. So as I have absolutely no fear in breaking things more then they already are. I learned on the first one and am going to teach you on the second.
This projector would only operate for about 30 minutes before reaching thermal shut down.
First off I know you can get the fans elsewhere cheaper but I wanted to give you all a steady supplier without dealing with eBay. I gotta keep it repeatable right?
Magefirm.com carries all 3 fans required, although they are in China they are relatively quick in shipping. Think 2 weeks not 2 days. All three fans can be ordered for about $87 US Dollars.
- http://www.magefirm.com/toshiba-c-e01c-server-cool...
- http://www.magefirm.com/toshiba-c-e03c-02-4510-pro...
- http://www.magefirm.com/nidec-g40g13ms1cz-57j331-s...
If you follow along the animated GIF will show you exactly what needs to be removed and in what order.
Tools required
- Narrow #1 Phillips (expressly needed for 1 screw but I like a larger screwdriver for repetitive use)
- Full size #1 Phillips (the bigger driver I prefer)
- Bent jaw tweezers, forceps or fine needle nose pliers.
- Wire cutters.
On to the teardown.
Step 1: Bulb Removal
Ok lets break it down slowly and methodically.
Safety briefing. ONLY OPEN THE PROJECTOR WHEN IT IS UNPLUGGED AND COOL TO THE TOUCH. DO NOT ATTEMPT DISASSEMBLY ON A HOT PROJECTOR. DO NOT TOUCH THE BULB OR ANY OF THE LENS SURFACES THE OIL ON YOUR SKIN CAN RUIN THE BULB AND THE LENSES CAUSING IRREPARABLE DAMAGE. DO NOT TOUCH THE AREA WHERE THE POWER CORD CONNECTS 110 HURTS AND SOME MAY NOT UNPLUG THE PROJECTOR FIRST.
To remove the bulb there is a single screw indicated in the first picture with an arrow.
Remove the screw indicated,
Gently slide the cover in the direction of the pictured arrow
Gently squeeze the wire retainer and rotate it up and out of the way.
Using the pull tab gently lift the bulb from its socket and place it on the cover.
Step 2: Opening the Clam-shell.
Now that the bulb cover is removed. The next step is to remove the five screws indicated with black arrows.
Then remove the 3 small screws indicated from the back panel indicated and keep them aside separately as they are a smaller then the rest of the case screws.
Flip the projector over and remove the indicated 10 screws keeping the one for the kick stand separate as it is also different length then the rest.
Gently lift up the air filter and and ensure that it is clean by blowing through it. Any dust or dirt should blow freely from the foam.
Right the projector again carefully as the top and bottom halves may come apart and damage a ribbon cable if you are not careful.
Slide the protective cover off of the port where the WiFi USB adapter may be located. If there is an adapter please remove it now. (my projectors did not have them)
Gently lift the rear of the case and it should easily start to separate.
On to the next step.
Step 3: Cables Joining the Top and Bottom Halves.
There are 2 cables joining the top and bottom halves. The first is the blue ribbon cable along the left side and the second is a black cable toward the front.
The ribbon cable will release from the main board by gently sliding the retainer forward.
The black cable is just a JST style connection and will pull apart easily.
You can now fully remove the top clam shell and set it aside.
Step 4: The Exhaust Blower
The first thing that needs to be done to remove the first blower is to carefully remove the zip tie indicated. If you clip any of the wires, you are going to have a bad time.
Un-tuck the thin plastic retaining "clips" for lack of a better word.
Remove the 2 screws indicated, in the second picture and remove the grill from the front of the blower.
The third screw is under the bulb cover disconnect. If you use a thin No 1 Phillips screw driver you should be able to loosen the screw to lift the bracket holding the rear of the blower.
Gently lift the bracket but do not fully remove it and slide the blower from the front of the projector.
Now that the blower is free unhook the wires from their stays, while you trace the wiring back to its connector.
Installing the blower is a direct reversal of the removal instructions. And reinstalling the 3 screws holding the blower in.
Step 5: Removing the Blower Fans for the Bulb Assembly.
Remove the two black screws holding in the top blower fan. The rear is screwed through the fan and the front is a nozzle bracket to direct the airflow directly onto the bulb when it is assembled.
I found it easiest to just fold the fan back to a unused area until the next fan is replaced.
The second fan motor is held into its bracket with two stainless steel colored screws along the right side. Remove those screws and gently rock the top edge of the fan towards you. The fan should rotate out of its housing and allow you to gently route the wires from their hold downs.
Step 6: Installation of the Bulb Fans.
Unhook the side blower and hook up the replacement fan. Route the wiring along the same path as removal and roll the fan back into its housing. Secure it with the 2 stainless screws removed.
Now unhook the bulb blower that was set aside and plug in the replacement fan.
fit the nozzle bracket to the front of the fan and work it back into position installing the two retaining black screws.
Now all that is left is to join the halves and test it out.
Step 7: Reconnect the Controls
As there is more slack on the two black wire harness reconnect it first.
Then ensure that the indicated ribbon retainer is loosened and insert the blue ribbon cable. you may require a pair of tweezers to secure the cable if you have large hands.
I like to test out the repair before fully putting it all back together. Insert the bulb into its socket. attach a power cable. Depress the safety cut out switch and press the power button. If the projector turns on you know you didn't break anything. Gently touch the fan housings for the rear and side fans to ensure that they are operating and feel for airflow from the front to verify that the large exhaust fan is running.
Power off the projector, disconnect the power cable. remove the battery from the socket again, and get ready to button it all back up.
Step 8: Put It All Together.
Insert 5 screws into the indicated holes.
Replace the WiFi Cover
Insert the 3 small rear panel screws.
Flip it over and insert the 9 bottom screws and one small screw for the front kick stand.
Insert the air filter into its slot.
Flip the projector right side up and insert the bulb.
Secure the wire bulb retainer
Install the bulb cover.
Power it up watch a movie to ensure that it does not go into thermal shut down and relax.
Granted this is a lot of picture but thanks for bearing with me. At this point pat yourself on the back as you just saved $1000 by repairing a projector instead of replacing it.