Introduction: Foam Printmaking With Take Out Containers
We had an exhibit of woodcut prints and I wanted to introduce kids to the concept of printmaking. But minus sharp objects. And pricey elements. And hopefully easier cleanup.
So here’s a beginner’s variation. If you don’t have to worry about food allergies, please reuse foam instead of buying it just for this!
You don’t need brayers if you aren’t using printing ink, but if you have the budget they’re really helpful. In a pinch heavy industrial paper towel tubes or cylindrical glass bottles can be used instead with the markers :D
(Okay, properly we’re using extruded polystyrene foam, but that’s a mouthful. Moving on.)
Supplies
-flat Styrofoam (preferably reused)
-ballpoint pen OR dull pencil
-spray bottle and washable markers OR brayers and water based printing ink
-white construction paper (something more absorptive than printer paper but with less tooth than watercolor is best)
Step 1: Trim Your Foam
You need a flat piece of Styrofoam.
You can use the center of plates and trim off the edges, the tops of egg cartons, and tops and bottoms of takeout containers.
The whole shape will print, so trim as neatly as possibly.
Step 2: Sketch Out Your Design
This is optional, but given that you can’t erase any mistakes, a really good idea.
I usually trace the outline of the piece of foam onto the scratch paper so I have the size and shape I'm working with.
Keep in mind that since this is a print, the places you press down on will be white. And since it's being flipped over to print onto paper, it will be the reverse of what you draw.
Abstract shapes and things that can be rotated are best to start out.
Step 3: 'Engrave' Your Foam
The ballpoint pen or dull pencil is your stylus.
Draw deeply into the foam, try to avoid tearing it.
Pros and cons:
Ballpoint pens tend to move through the foam better. Plus you can see where the markings are better than a pencil. The downside is sometimes they cut through the foam a little too well and can weaken your plate by almost going through it. Also, with littles you might end up with kids covered in ink.
Dull pencils don’t flow as smoothly and don't leave as visible marks, but also don’t usually cut through the foam. They're also less likely to leave marks to clean up!
I usually freehand this stage, but if you’re working with a difficult design like backwards letters, you can put your sketch on top of the foam and lightly trace, then go along and deepen the lines in the foam.
Step 4: Make a Print! Option #1, Washable Markers
Usually I’ll use the washable markers and spray bottles method with younger kids. Or a larger group of kids since it's a little more supervision and supply friendly.
Color the engraved plate with washable markers. Make sure everything is covered or else the white space will disappear into the lines that will stay white.
Gently spray water all over your paper to get an even dampness.
Figure how you want the plate oriented, flip over onto the paper, and rub the back gently, keeping the plate and paper in place. Make sure to press to the edges and try to go in all directions. (This is where a brayer or even a heavy tube can be handy.)
Lift your plate up, and let your print dry.
You can gently wipe down the plate with a damp paper towel to clear off the engraving to add details or try a different set of colors.
Step 5: Print Option #2, Water Based Printing Ink
I usually do this with small groups ages 8 and up, and a sink handy!
Squish a small amount of ink on a plastic plate or smooth contained surface (cookie sheets are out of my library’s funds but would probably be great, maybe vinyl placemats) and have a child run the brayer over the ink in all directions until its flat on the surface and on the brayer.
Use the brayer to roll ink all over the engraved foam plate. Roll top to bottom and side to side to try to get an even coat of ink on the plate.
Flip it over on your paper and roll over it with a clean brayer, again moving side to side and top to bottom to try to get even pressure all over.
Lift your plate up, and let your print dry.
Ink is a little harder to get off the engraved plate. A very gentle scrub with soap and water will generally do it.
As before, after seeing their first print kids can add details or try a different color.
Step 6: Endnotes
*Foam shapes: you can also cut fancier shapes if you’re feeling ambitious. I have a handful of moons because kids will make a mark in the middle and decide they don’t like it, so I try to salvage what I can for future use.
*Designs: if the kids have already been exposed to zentangles, they can be good design inspiration for plates.
*Regarding ballpoint pens: in fairness, the ink doesn’t dry well on the foam, so I usually get pretty covered in ink too…
*Engraving: straight lines are tough, so are circles. Gentle curves seem to work best with the material.
*The washable markers and spray bottles version is also good if you’re doing the craft without a sink, or with one sink to a lot of kids. It does get on hands, so you’ll probably want extra damp paper towels handy to wash hands. (Also, it's more washable off of surfaces and clothes than it is off of skin...)
*Lots of kids have a lot of fun spraying, you might need to let some of the papers dry out a bit again so you don’t end up with recessed puddles and dry hills rising from them! You want even dampness.
*If the placement is an issue and the surface is protected, you can also have kids position their plate how they want it then flip the paper over the plate and gently rub on the paper itself. This sometimes creates patchier results, but if littles have trouble flipping their plate without moving it, this can be a better option.
*For working with the water based printer's ink, make sure the brayer and ink plate is totally dry. Every time I've tried to reuse a plastic plate or brayer the same day -no mater how I dry it off- I end up with water in the ink, ruining it. Do one plastic plate and brayer per color for the sake of your sanity.
*Since the brayers are also hard to clean (and can wander off to other colors if someone less careful gets impatient and ruin the batch for everyone) I labeled them with the color they are to be used with so they don't contaminate each other.
*The washable markers work best on white paper, but the ink is usually opaque enough to work on colored construction paper. Having one color of ink available but lots of different contrasting papers can be a fun variation.