I highly recommend downloading my free plans that also include all dimensions. The plans are designed to complement the steps here and also provide additional diagrams. Use the two together to get the best results.

Tools Used

Table Saw
Drill
Kreg Pockethole Jig
Angle Grinder with Cut-Off Wheel (or hacksaw)
Fine Hand File
Clamps
Tape Measure
Miter Saw (optional)
Impact Driver (optional)
Brad Nailer (optional)

Supplies

Wall Control Panel(s)
2x4s
3/4" Plywood
Piano Hinge
Pockethole Screws
Hinge Screws
CA Glue
CA Glue Accelerant (optional)
Wood Glue
1" Dowel
Hardwood Scrap

Step 1: Mill 2x4 Square

Most dimensions will be based on the Wall Control panel. Keep it close by to reference measurements during the build. The steps are for one panel, so be sure to repeat each step for each panel you want to hang.

Most 2x4s from a big box store are rough and have some warping to them. We'll start by milling the 2x4 square.

The hinge mechanism will be on the short edge of the Wall Control panel. Cut the 2x4 a little longer than the short edge of the panel.

Set your table saw fence to 3 1/4" and rip off one rounded edge. Adjust to 3" and rip the other side square.

We still need to clean up the faces. I set my table saw to 1 3/8" and ripped the face off in two passes. I then adjusted the fence to 1 1/4" and ripped the final face of the 2x4 off, again in two passes. If you are not comfortable making this cut, take some extra time and sand each side smooth. If you have a thickness planer, plane each face till the total thickness is 1 1/4".

Step 2: Cut Notch in 2x4

Set your milled 2x4 on the back of the Wall Control panel and mark out a notch to cut out. The offcut will be slotted behind back panel mounting piece for stability.

Once marked, take the piece over to your table saw and set your fence based on your marks. Make sure to adjust the saw blade height as well. We'll want to keep the offcut.

If you do not feel comfortable making this cut, you can hog out all the material, but then cut a small piece from another 2x4 piece to fill the void.

Once the notch is cut, cut all pieces to their final length based on the panel.

Step 3: Install 2x4 Cleat to Panel

Slide to the small offcut behind the panel's back lip. It should be snug, but pop in easily. You may need to cut the offcut slightly shorter for it to fit.

Clamp the other side of the 2x4 so it is flush with the front and the notch fits over the back lip of the panel and offcut. Use some clamps to keep everything in place and flip the assembly over.

Drill a pilot hole through the front top mounting holes of the panel and both 2x4 pieces. Drive a screw through both pieces.

Flip the panel assembly over and drill several pilot holes through the back and drive screws to fully secure the 2x4 back together.

Step 4: Install Panel Cross Pieces

To add some extra strength to the panels, we need to add a crosspiece to the middle and bottom of the panel. These will be located in the same places the panel would normally be secured to a wall.

Start by marking both sides of the pieces for holes. Pre-drill to prevent the edges from cracking, then secure to the back of the panel.

I did this step at the end after the panel was already hung and highly recommend adding these while still on the bench. It will be much easier to secure the pieces before it is above a workbench.

Step 5: Cut Plywood to Size

Time to build the opposite side of the hinge. Because we'll be loading the panel with accessories and tools, we'll need to offset the panel from the ceiling. Measure how far from the panel your largest accessory will be. This will be the offset height. We won't factor in the thickness of the Top Mount to provide some additional buffer.

For each panel, cut to pieces of 3/4" plywood to the height measured above. Then, cut each piece to the width of the Wall Control panel.

While you are cutting plywood, cut a Top Mount for each panel. We want to add a 3/4" perimeter around the offset, so add 1 1/2" to the width of the Wall Control panels and another 1 1/2" to the thickness of two sandwiched pieces of plywood.

Step 6: Assemble Ceiling Offset

Assemble two plywood pieces together with wood glue and brad nails. The nails will hold everything together while the glue dries. Keep track of where you add brad nails so you do not damage your drill bit.

While the glue dries, use your pocket-hole jig to drill several pocket-holes in the back of the ceiling offset.

Step 7: Install Assembly to Ceiling

I am installing my hanging panels into overhead storage, which has OSB underneath. If you are installing into a ceiling, install the panel into studs or drywall screws.

Once you know where you want the panels to hang, install the Top Mount directly into the ceiling. I found it helped to tack it in place with a couple of brad nails. These keep it in place until you can permanently secure with screws.

Center the ceiling offset to the Top Mount and install with pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Cut the hinge to the full width of the panel. Use the hinge to mark the ceiling offset screw locations, then predrill to prevent splitting. Install the hinge to the panel assembly with the hinge facing the front of the panel.

Prop the bottom of the panel assembly up so it is horizontal and screw the hinge to the top offset with screws. I used longer screws than the ones provided with the hinge for extra strength.

Step 8: Make Locking Mechanism - Option 1 - Hinge

The hinge option allows the panel to be put up so the rest pivots out of the way, but closes once the panel clears it. It can also be fully operated with one hand.

Clamp the lock main in place and hold the Wall Control panel in the the desired up position. Mark where the bottom of the panel should rest, then square the mark to the lock main.

Position the hinge rest so the top lines up with the mark. While in position, mark for the hinge screw locations (hinge on top) and drill pilot holes. Install the hinge to both pieces.

Install the whole mechanism so it is in the center of the raised Wall Control panel.

See the free plans in the first step for the full dimensions I used for this.

Step 9: Make Locking Mechanism - Option 2 - Dowel

The dowel option is better for more heavily weighted panels, but it does require two hands to fully operate.

Mark the lock main the same way as with the hinge option. I recommend a 1" dowel, so the hole needs to have its top meet the mark. Drill the 1" hole. I recommend a forstner bit to get a clean hole, but any 1" drill bits will work.

Cut the dowel to size so it has plenty of contact with the panel, extends through the main mount, and has a fraction of an inch extended past.

For the hand hold, I used a small hardwood scrap. Cut it into a 1 1/2" square and chamfer the edges. Glue it to the dowel. While the glue dries, install the main part so it is centered on the panel.

Step 10: Load Up Your Panels

Small shop require space to be maximized. I added two panels in front of my French cleat tool wall, which expanded my tool wall by 50%. This has the additional benefit of not taking up an inch of additional wall or floor space, but uses otherwise wasted ceiling space instead.

Introduction: Folding Metal Pegboard Tool Wall