Introduction: Giant Yoshi Plush
Yoshi is my favorite game character and since I didn't have any Yoshi stuffed animals yet I thought why not make one...and since I was going to make one, why not make him huge!
Step 1: Making the Pattern
I started out by buying a small Yoshi stuffed animal so that I could take him apart and create my pattern. (Don't worry, I sewed him back together at the end)
To take the toy apart I just started by snipping one of the seams and pulling out the thread. I didn't cut any of the fabric since I needed everything in tact to create the pattern.
Once I had all of the pieces taken apart, I ironed them flat, pinned them to paper and traced out the shapes. I labeled everything and took a lot of pictures so I would be able to figure out how it went back together.
I tested out my new pattern by making a small yoshi, the same size as the one I bought, and everything went together great :)
Next I scanned my pattern into photoshop, traced it in illustrator so I would have clean lines, and blew it up 600%! I tiled out the pattern so I could print it out and tape it together and the final count was 77pages!
To take the toy apart I just started by snipping one of the seams and pulling out the thread. I didn't cut any of the fabric since I needed everything in tact to create the pattern.
Once I had all of the pieces taken apart, I ironed them flat, pinned them to paper and traced out the shapes. I labeled everything and took a lot of pictures so I would be able to figure out how it went back together.
I tested out my new pattern by making a small yoshi, the same size as the one I bought, and everything went together great :)
Next I scanned my pattern into photoshop, traced it in illustrator so I would have clean lines, and blew it up 600%! I tiled out the pattern so I could print it out and tape it together and the final count was 77pages!
Step 2: Putting the Pattern Together
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Materials:
Once I had my printable pattern created, the next step was to print it out.
Once the pages are printed, the next step is to tape them together. All the pages are numbered and have matching registration marks so they are easy to align. I taped my pages in sections and cut out pieces as I went along so I didn't have such a huge piece of paper to work with.
Tools:
- Computer
- Printer
- Scissors or Paper Trimmer
Materials:
- 79 pieces of 81/2" x 11" paper (2 pages are reference templates)
- Tape
Once I had my printable pattern created, the next step was to print it out.
Once the pages are printed, the next step is to tape them together. All the pages are numbered and have matching registration marks so they are easy to align. I taped my pages in sections and cut out pieces as I went along so I didn't have such a huge piece of paper to work with.
Step 3: Cutting the Fabric Pieces
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Fabric:
(This fabric list is for a light blue Yoshi, you may need more or less of some colors depending on which color Yoshi you are making)
Make sure to check the pieces so you know how many of each to cut and if they need to be flipped over. You will also need to mark the dart positions and the slits.
After marking out your pieces, cut each of them out and check to see if you have all them.
Notes About Fabric:
The fabric I used is very plush and soft (it was called Ultra Cuddle Fleece), I got mine at Joann's Fabric Store in the section where they keep the blanket fabrics. I did notice that the mine has the potential to rip since I added a lot of stuffing at the end, so if you plan on having a firm Yoshi packed with stuffing check how strong your fabric is and if it seems a little "delicate" I would suggest trying knit interfacing to prevent any tears in the fabric.
I used felt for the eyes since it is sturdy and the edges don't fray but you could use any kind you want, leather, vinyl or an embroidery machine if you have one.
Tools:
- Scissors
- Pen/marker to trace the pattern pieces to the fabric (I used a black sharpie, and a metallic pen for the black pieces)
- Weights to hold down the pattern pieces (I just used a stapler and a few things from my toolbox)
Fabric:
(This fabric list is for a light blue Yoshi, you may need more or less of some colors depending on which color Yoshi you are making)
- 2 1/3 yards of blue body color (57" wide)
- 1 1/3 yards of white (57" wide)
- 1/3 yard of yellow for the bottom of the feet (57" wide)
- 1/3 yard of orange for the hair (57" wide)
- 1/3 yard of red for shell/saddle (57" wide)
- 1/2 yard of purple for boots (57" wide)
- 1 sheet of black felt for the pupils and nostrils
- 1 sheet of white felt for the highlights int he pupils
- 1/2 yard of a light knit fabric for the stuffing guards
Make sure to check the pieces so you know how many of each to cut and if they need to be flipped over. You will also need to mark the dart positions and the slits.
After marking out your pieces, cut each of them out and check to see if you have all them.
Notes About Fabric:
The fabric I used is very plush and soft (it was called Ultra Cuddle Fleece), I got mine at Joann's Fabric Store in the section where they keep the blanket fabrics. I did notice that the mine has the potential to rip since I added a lot of stuffing at the end, so if you plan on having a firm Yoshi packed with stuffing check how strong your fabric is and if it seems a little "delicate" I would suggest trying knit interfacing to prevent any tears in the fabric.
I used felt for the eyes since it is sturdy and the edges don't fray but you could use any kind you want, leather, vinyl or an embroidery machine if you have one.
Step 4: Prep the Eyes & Nose
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Fabric Pieces:
Sew around the edge of the pupils so they are attached to the white eye piece.
Pin the white eye highlights to the pupils.
Sew around the edge of white eye highlights so they are attached to the pupils.
Pin the nostrils to the nose, reference the pattern for placement.
Sew around the edge of the nostrils so they are attached to the nose.
Set these pieces aside for now.
Tools:
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Pins
Fabric Pieces:
- White Eye Piece
- 2 pupil pieces
- 2 white eye highlights
- 1 Nose piece
- 2 nostril pieces
Sew around the edge of the pupils so they are attached to the white eye piece.
Pin the white eye highlights to the pupils.
Sew around the edge of white eye highlights so they are attached to the pupils.
Pin the nostrils to the nose, reference the pattern for placement.
Sew around the edge of the nostrils so they are attached to the nose.
Set these pieces aside for now.
Step 5: Sew the Hands
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Fabric Pieces:
Sew the darts on the top hands closed, right sides together, pin in place if necessary.
Pin the top and bottom hand pieces, right sides together, make sure to match the correct top to the correct bottom piece.
Sew around the edge using 3/8" seam allowance, leave the bottom open.
Repeat for opposite hand.
Turn right side out.
Mark placement for finger stitching, I used tailors chalk. You do not want to use a marker since you are stitching on the correct side of the fabric.
Add pins to keep the hand pieces in place.
Sew the finger lines, and end the stitch just before the edge seam.
Repeat for opposite hand.
Tools:
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Pins
Fabric Pieces:
- 2 top hand pieces
- 2 bottom hand pieces
Sew the darts on the top hands closed, right sides together, pin in place if necessary.
Pin the top and bottom hand pieces, right sides together, make sure to match the correct top to the correct bottom piece.
Sew around the edge using 3/8" seam allowance, leave the bottom open.
Repeat for opposite hand.
Turn right side out.
Mark placement for finger stitching, I used tailors chalk. You do not want to use a marker since you are stitching on the correct side of the fabric.
Add pins to keep the hand pieces in place.
Sew the finger lines, and end the stitch just before the edge seam.
Repeat for opposite hand.
Step 6: Attach the Arms to the Body
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Fabric Pieces:
Sew slit closed using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin 1 arm to the corresponding body piece, right sides together. Match the upper arm seam to the slit seam to align. *Make sure you are connecting the correct arm to the correct body piece*
Sew arm to body using 3/8" seam allowance.
Repeat for opposite arm.
Tools:
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Pins
Fabric Pieces:
- 2 Sewn arm pieces
- 2 body pieces
Sew slit closed using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin 1 arm to the corresponding body piece, right sides together. Match the upper arm seam to the slit seam to align. *Make sure you are connecting the correct arm to the correct body piece*
Sew arm to body using 3/8" seam allowance.
Repeat for opposite arm.
Step 7: Sew the Saddle
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Fabric Pieces:
Pin the right sides of the 2 saddle rim pieces together, match notches.
Sew around the outer edge with 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin the right sides of the end pieces together, matching the center seams and pressing seam allowance flat.
Sew the end pieces together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Turn saddle rim right side out, it should now be a complete circle.
Pin together the inner edge of the saddle rim with WRONG sides together, and mark out a 4-5" gap (adjust gap size to your preference, this will be left open to add stuffing at the end)
Sew the inner edge together using 1/4" seam allowance, leaving gap open.
Pin together the right sides of the red saddle pieces together, match notches.
Sew along the curved edge using 3/8" seam allowance, leaving bottom open.
Turn right side out.
Pin the saddle to the saddle stuffing guard, slit in stuffing guard should be cut open, match notches.
Sew together using 1/4" seam allowance.
Pin the saddle rim to the saddle, right sides together, matching seams. *Exclude stuffing gap, you will still need this to insert stuffing at the end*
Sew together using 1/4" seam allowance, leaving gap open.
Tools:
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Pins
Fabric Pieces:
- 2 saddle rim pieces
- 2 saddle pieces
- 1 saddle stuffing guard
Pin the right sides of the 2 saddle rim pieces together, match notches.
Sew around the outer edge with 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin the right sides of the end pieces together, matching the center seams and pressing seam allowance flat.
Sew the end pieces together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Turn saddle rim right side out, it should now be a complete circle.
Pin together the inner edge of the saddle rim with WRONG sides together, and mark out a 4-5" gap (adjust gap size to your preference, this will be left open to add stuffing at the end)
Sew the inner edge together using 1/4" seam allowance, leaving gap open.
Pin together the right sides of the red saddle pieces together, match notches.
Sew along the curved edge using 3/8" seam allowance, leaving bottom open.
Turn right side out.
Pin the saddle to the saddle stuffing guard, slit in stuffing guard should be cut open, match notches.
Sew together using 1/4" seam allowance.
Pin the saddle rim to the saddle, right sides together, matching seams. *Exclude stuffing gap, you will still need this to insert stuffing at the end*
Sew together using 1/4" seam allowance, leaving gap open.
Step 8: Sew the Saddle to the Body
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Fabric Pieces:
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin the saddle to the body, right sides together. Align the center seam on the saddle to the tail and back neck seams on the body. *Continue to exclude stuffing gap*
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance, leaving stuffing gap open.
Tools:
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Pins
- Fiberfill Stuffing
Fabric Pieces:
- 1 sewn saddle
- 2 body pieces (with arms attached)
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin the saddle to the body, right sides together. Align the center seam on the saddle to the tail and back neck seams on the body. *Continue to exclude stuffing gap*
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance, leaving stuffing gap open.
Step 9: Sew the Legs & Boots
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Pins
Fabric Pieces:
- 2 leg pieces
- 2 boot cuff pieces
- 4 boot pieces
- 2 bottom boot pieces
Sew the dart closed on both leg pieces, right sides together, pin if necessary.
Fold 1 boot cuff in half, WRONG sides together.
Pin folded boot cuff to the right side of 1 leg at the ankle edge, matching notches. The cuff fold should be pointed up towards the top of the leg.*See pictures*
Sew together using 1/4" seam allowance.
Repeat for opposite leg.
Pin the right sides of 2 boot pieces together at the front toe.
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Repeat for opposite boot.
Pin the top of 1 boot to the ankle of 1 leg, right sides together, matching center boot seam to ankle notch.
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Repeat for opposite leg.
Add stuffing to the boot cuffs, leaving room at both ends for sewing.
Pin together the back of one leg, right sides together, pay close attention to lining up the back cuff seams, keep cuff facing up towards top of boot.
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Repeat for opposite side.
Pin 1 bottom boot piece to 1 boot, right sides together, match notches.
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Repeat for opposite boot.
Step 10: Sew the Underbelly to the Body
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Fabric Pieces:
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin right sides of body tail tip together. *See pictures*
Sew together using 3/8"seam allowance.
Pin the outer edges of the body and underbelly, right sides together. The leg holes and neck opening will now be created, do not pin these parts closed.
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance, leaving leg holes and neck open.
Tools:
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Pins
Fabric Pieces:
- 2 underbelly/bottom tail pieces
- 1 body piece with saddle attached
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin right sides of body tail tip together. *See pictures*
Sew together using 3/8"seam allowance.
Pin the outer edges of the body and underbelly, right sides together. The leg holes and neck opening will now be created, do not pin these parts closed.
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance, leaving leg holes and neck open.
Step 11: Sew the Legs to the Body
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Fabric Pieces:
Sew using 3/8" seam allowance.
Repeat for opposite leg.
Tools:
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Pins
Fabric Pieces:
- 2 sewn legs with boots
- 1 body piece with saddle & underbelly attached
Sew using 3/8" seam allowance.
Repeat for opposite leg.
Step 12: Sew the Nose
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Fabric Pieces:
Sew darts closed using 3/8" seam allowance and curve this stitch lightly towards the end, the curve will help give the nose a rounder shape.
Turn right side out.
Pin the nose to the nose stuffing guard, slit in nose stuffing guard should be cut open, match notches, WRONG sides together.
Sew together using 1/4" seam allowance.
Tools:
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Pins
Fabric Pieces:
- 1 nose piece
Sew darts closed using 3/8" seam allowance and curve this stitch lightly towards the end, the curve will help give the nose a rounder shape.
Turn right side out.
Pin the nose to the nose stuffing guard, slit in nose stuffing guard should be cut open, match notches, WRONG sides together.
Sew together using 1/4" seam allowance.
Step 13: Sew the Hair
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Fabric Pieces:
Sew around the top edge (with the bumps) with 3/8" seam allowance, leaving bottom open.
Turn right side out
Sew the bottom opening closed leaving a 4-5" gap for stuffing (adjust size of gap to your preference) using 1/4" seam allowance.
Tools:
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Pins
Fabric Pieces:
- 2 hair pieces
Sew around the top edge (with the bumps) with 3/8" seam allowance, leaving bottom open.
Turn right side out
Sew the bottom opening closed leaving a 4-5" gap for stuffing (adjust size of gap to your preference) using 1/4" seam allowance.
Step 14: Sew the Lower Head
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Fabric Pieces:
Pin 1 back head piece to corresponding upper cheek piece, right sides together. *See pictures*
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Repeat for opposite side.
Pin together both back head pieces with right sides together, sandwiching hair piece in between. The bottom end of the hair aligns with the notch on the back head pieces. *Exclude gap for stuffing*
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance, leaving stuffing gap open.
Pin 1 cheek piece to corresponding side of back head, right sides together, matching cheek dart to upper cheek notch. The upper cheek will end at the double notches on the cheek. *See pictures*
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin both chin portions of cheek pieces, right sides together. *See pictures*
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance. Neck opening is now created.
Tools:
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Pins
Fabric Pieces:
- 2 cheek pieces
- 2 upper cheek pieces
- 2 back head pieces
- 1 sewn hair piece
Pin 1 back head piece to corresponding upper cheek piece, right sides together. *See pictures*
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Repeat for opposite side.
Pin together both back head pieces with right sides together, sandwiching hair piece in between. The bottom end of the hair aligns with the notch on the back head pieces. *Exclude gap for stuffing*
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance, leaving stuffing gap open.
Pin 1 cheek piece to corresponding side of back head, right sides together, matching cheek dart to upper cheek notch. The upper cheek will end at the double notches on the cheek. *See pictures*
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin both chin portions of cheek pieces, right sides together. *See pictures*
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance. Neck opening is now created.
Step 15: Sew the Upper Head
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Fabric Pieces:
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin the right sides of both back eye pieces together down the center back.
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin the front and back eyepieces, right sides together, leaving bottom open.
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Tools:
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Pins
Fabric Pieces:
- 1 eye piece with pupils & highlights attached
- 1 eyebrow piece
- 2 back eye pieces
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin the right sides of both back eye pieces together down the center back.
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin the front and back eyepieces, right sides together, leaving bottom open.
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Step 16: Finish Sewing the Head
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Fabric Pieces:
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin the back of the eyes to the back of the head and include the rest of the white eye piece, right sides together, match notches. *See pictures*
Sew closed using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin the nose to the bottom of the face, right sides together, match notches.
Sew closed using 3/8" seam allowance.
Head is now complete!
Tools:
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Pins
Fabric Pieces:
- 1 sewn upper head
- 1 sewn lower head
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin the back of the eyes to the back of the head and include the rest of the white eye piece, right sides together, match notches. *See pictures*
Sew closed using 3/8" seam allowance.
Pin the nose to the bottom of the face, right sides together, match notches.
Sew closed using 3/8" seam allowance.
Head is now complete!
Step 17: Sew the Head to the Body
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Fabric Pieces:
Pin both neck openings, right sides together, align seams.
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Turn right side out through the hole in the underbelly.
The body is now sewn together!
Tools:
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Pins
Fabric Pieces:
- 1 sewn head
- 1 sewn body
Pin both neck openings, right sides together, align seams.
Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.
Turn right side out through the hole in the underbelly.
The body is now sewn together!
Step 18: Make Sandbags
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
To create the bags I placed 1 garbage in a bowl and set it on a scale and weighed out 10lbs of sand. Then I wrapped the bag several times and taped it closed. I repeated this for the 5lb bag for his saddle.
I also sewed covers for the sandbags out of vinyl, I thought this was nicer than just the garbage bags, it also gives the bags an extra layer of protection so they don't break.
Tools:
- Scale
- Bowl
- Measuring cup (to scoop the sand)
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Play Sand (I got 1 bag for $5 at Home Depot and there is still a lot left over)
- 2 plastic bags ( I used garbage bags)
- Tape
- Vinyl
- Thread
To create the bags I placed 1 garbage in a bowl and set it on a scale and weighed out 10lbs of sand. Then I wrapped the bag several times and taped it closed. I repeated this for the 5lb bag for his saddle.
I also sewed covers for the sandbags out of vinyl, I thought this was nicer than just the garbage bags, it also gives the bags an extra layer of protection so they don't break.
Step 19: Add the Stuffing
Supplies Needed:
Tools:
Materiels:
This much stuffing can get expensive so to save money on this part I bought a few magazines at Joann's called Fashion Fushion, they have these at the cutting tables, they have 2-50% off coupons and 4-40% off coupons on the back and you can use them all at the same time. They cost $3.99 and pay for themselves just on one bag of 32oz stuffing which for me was $9.99. I recommend getting these to help keep your cost down if you are getting your supplies at Joann's.
The stuffing can be as full or as light as you want so adjust to your own preference. I wanted mine really full so all areas are packed tightly. *Be cautious when adding a lot of stuffing so you do not rip the fabric or your seams*
Add stuffing to the hair. *This is also where you would add a sandbag if you made one for the hair*
Hand sew hair stuffing gap closed, making sure to include both the body and hair fabric.
Add stuffing to the saddle rim.
Hand sew saddle rim stuffing gap closed, making sure to grab the saddle, both saddle rim edges and the body fabric.
Add stuffing to the arms and fill in the fingers.
Add stuffing to the eyes.
Add stuffing to the nose through the hole in the nose stuffing guard. The guard helps keep the stuffing in place in the nose so it doesn't start fall out through the rest of the head.
Add stuffing to the saddle through the hole in the saddle stuffing guard, once you have a nice layer, add the sandbag towards the bottom of the saddle and cover with stuffing.
Add stuffing to the boots.
Add stuffing to the legs.
Add stuffing to the tail tip.
Add stuffing to the body.
Once you have nearly stuffed the entire body, add the sand bag to the bottom, enclosing the bag with stuffing so it does not sit directly on the fabric.
Fill in the rest of the belly with stuffing.
Hand sew the stuffing gap on the belly closed, take your time to create a nice seam so it is not visible from the outside.
Yoshi is now complete!
Tools:
- Needle
- Scissors
Materiels:
- 1 Sewn Yoshi body
- 458 oz of Stuffing
- Thread (for hair, belly and saddle)
This much stuffing can get expensive so to save money on this part I bought a few magazines at Joann's called Fashion Fushion, they have these at the cutting tables, they have 2-50% off coupons and 4-40% off coupons on the back and you can use them all at the same time. They cost $3.99 and pay for themselves just on one bag of 32oz stuffing which for me was $9.99. I recommend getting these to help keep your cost down if you are getting your supplies at Joann's.
The stuffing can be as full or as light as you want so adjust to your own preference. I wanted mine really full so all areas are packed tightly. *Be cautious when adding a lot of stuffing so you do not rip the fabric or your seams*
Add stuffing to the hair. *This is also where you would add a sandbag if you made one for the hair*
Hand sew hair stuffing gap closed, making sure to include both the body and hair fabric.
Add stuffing to the saddle rim.
Hand sew saddle rim stuffing gap closed, making sure to grab the saddle, both saddle rim edges and the body fabric.
Add stuffing to the arms and fill in the fingers.
Add stuffing to the eyes.
Add stuffing to the nose through the hole in the nose stuffing guard. The guard helps keep the stuffing in place in the nose so it doesn't start fall out through the rest of the head.
Add stuffing to the saddle through the hole in the saddle stuffing guard, once you have a nice layer, add the sandbag towards the bottom of the saddle and cover with stuffing.
Add stuffing to the boots.
Add stuffing to the legs.
Add stuffing to the tail tip.
Add stuffing to the body.
Once you have nearly stuffed the entire body, add the sand bag to the bottom, enclosing the bag with stuffing so it does not sit directly on the fabric.
Fill in the rest of the belly with stuffing.
Hand sew the stuffing gap on the belly closed, take your time to create a nice seam so it is not visible from the outside.
Yoshi is now complete!
Step 20: Enjoy!
Give your Yoshi a HUGE HUG!! You know you want to...It will be like a childhood dream come true! Pretend your Mario and and take your Yoshi for a ride. Use your Yoshi for your new pillow so you have good dreams. Take your Yoshi out for a picnic on your front lawn so your neighbors can watch in admiration. Display your Yoshi proudly and enjoy!
** And yes I made 2! One for me and one for my man ; ) **
** And yes I made 2! One for me and one for my man ; ) **