Introduction: Grandpa Steve's Space Plane - an Adult Version of a "Refrigerator Box" Space Ship

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About: I'm a 60 year old (almost!) retired software architect (and former part-owner of drb.com), with all my time free, a great workshop, and a great family to do things for and with.

Remember when you were a kid, and your parents got a new refrigerator and let you turn the cardboard box into a space ship? I do. So now I'm an old retired guy with a workshop, resources, and grandkids, and I've made a "grandpa" version.

This project actually started almost a year ago. I spent a lot of time with flight simulators starting with Microsoft's in 1985, and building a "cockpit" has been on my bucket list for a long time. Last year I decided it was time to finally do it when I purchased three 50" TVs for $209 each on Black Friday. However, with grandkids involved, the "airplane dashboard" project turned into a "cockpit" project, which then turned into a whole "space plane" project (with three kids, you need room for four, right?), which was too big to do before Christmas. ☹

So I've had those three TVs, five 4x8 sheets of whiteboard and two of foil covered foam, a dashboard frame, and four floor recliners, all sitting in my basement since December waiting for a reason to get started again.

Then I saw the Instructables 2021 "Space" contest, which my project is perfect for, and still had 23 days left. I decided since I had time, it was time! I've spent most of my free time over the last three weeks working on it, and what you see here just got finished around 8:30 last night, on 10/17.

The reason I think that this is a great "Instructable" project is that much of the work can be done by kids (e.g. 10-16?) So it's a great parent/children project, that can be enjoyed for years (unlike most $300 toy investments). It's not like cabinet making or serious carpentry. Nothing has to be perfect, and the rough edges will all be covered in duct tape at the end anyway. If a mistake wastes part of a 4x8 sheet of white board, you can spend less than $20 to get another one – no big deal. (Just be careful not to screw up on the Lexan!)

Hopefully the judges will agree with me! This is my very first Instructable, so I'm hoping I'm "doin' it right!"

The goal of this project, and this Instructable, is to build a kind of "playhouse" for your kids (and/or you), to face toward a projector screen and play space (and flight) simulator games (like Orbiter and XPlane.) I wanted to make something that can be disassembled and stored very compactly, yet reassembled easily, while remaining sturdy and safe. For version 1, I wanted to make it as simple as possible, using cheap materials you can buy (and have cut for you) at Home Depot, that you can carry home in an SUV.

At some point, I'll add the LED lighting, external screens, dashboard monitors and peripherals, 5.1 surround sound system, etc, and turn it into a true simulator – but for now, it's just a simple "toy". It's also "version 1". At the end I'll talk about what I learned and what "version 2" might be like.

This project is actually a number of projects done sequentially. Specifically:

  • The Dashboard: 4x4x2' deep, with a plexiglass windshield;
  • The Cockpit: 4x4x3', with folding "gull-wing" doors with 24x36" plexiglass windows;
  • The Cabin: 4x4x4' (or shorter) with a back panel that can have a "mock up" engine added;
  • The Cosmetics: A 2' deep "nose", an "engine module", and the wings and tail.

You can build just the dashboard, or the dashboard and cockpit (two "passengers", suitable for a triple screen simulator), or add the cabin too (room for 4 passengers and a drink cooler), and then add the cosmetic stuff or not. Note that if you do, it's a great opportunity for some creativity! 

Supplies

Seats: I have four, but you could build a bench if you'd rather.

Lexan: two 3x4 foot sheets, one 2x4 foot sheet. (Note: these are for for cockpit side windows, front window, and front side windows, respectively. You could also buy a 4x8 sheet, but my Home Depot won't cut it and it's hard to get home.)

White boards: six (6) 4x8 sheets (did this one from Lowes just to be fair!)

Foam boards: one or two (1-2) 4x8 sheets (These are 1.5" thick, but you can get 1" or 2".)

Plywood: one (1) 4x4 sheet of ½ in. or thicker, finished at least one side

2x4 boards: two (2) 8 ft. best quality you can get (for base)

2x2 boards: Six (6) 8 ft. pieces, good quality. ("need" 5, but get extra(s).)

1x2 boards: Eight (8) 8 ft. pieces, good quality. (Need more like 7, but get extra(s).)

Piano hinges: one (1) 72" or two (2) 36" pieces

Small metal hinges:eight (8) 1"x2" hinges (8 hinges, not 8 packs.)

Drywall Screws, 2": at least 50? (Had them, didn't count exactly.)

Shorter screws, 1" #8. At least 20.

Assortment of air nails. (some 5/8", some 1")

Pop-rivets: about 100?

Stuff you probably have:

Black duct tape, White duct tape, Clear caulk, Good adhesive, Black paint, Gray paint, tools, drill bits, etc.

"Engine" parts.

Tools

Hammer, screwdriver, etc.

Air Nailer (I have one of these- a cordless Ryobi, and love it.)

Pop-riveter (or get one of these if you have a compressor. I've already ordered one for the next version!)

Electric drill

Electric screwdriver (Don't assume you'll use the drill - have one of each, or two drills, one with a phillips bit.)

Hand Saber saw

and optionally, circular saw too.

Small-teeth bits are best for the Lexan. Also get one of these to cut the foam board (and cardboard.)

Chop saw (optional but useful).

Step 1: Decide What to Build

I've provided drawings and steps for the whole project, but you don't have to build all of it, or do it "as specified". You have some choices:

  • You can build just the dashboard (which can be less than 2 feet deep if needed);
  • You can extend that with just the cockpit (3 feet deep with doors and side windows),
  • or also include the cabin extension (which can be shortened from 4 feet to 3 feet or even less);
  • And, you can add a nose, engines, and wings if you want, and do those any way you want. (Even if you don't build the cabin extension.)

Once you've decided which parts you plan to build, you can obtain your materials.

Note that the dashboard is the most expensive part – it has about $80 worth of Lexan plus a 4x4 sheet of half-inch plywood. The Cockpit needs another $50 of Lexan, plus a sheet of whiteboard ($18), and the cabin adds two more whiteboard sheets ($38) and some 2x2's. Even doing the whole thing doesn't cost any more than many kid's toys. 

Step 2: Assemble the Dashboard

The frame has some "tricky" angles, but just start with the basics.

  • Cut the plywood base and shelf (hint: cut into two 4'x2', clamp, and cut together).
  • Cut off the thickness of the plywood from the bottom (square ends) of the left and right (vertical) boards, so once assembled the dashboard is exactly 48" high.
  • Build the "Dash, Front" section with its four pieces, and the "Dash, Back" section with its three, connecting the 45° angled corners with glue and a screw. (Clamps are really helpful here!)
  • Attach the front and back frame sections to the plywood base, adding the Dash Base Left/Right boards between the front and back sections to support them (and space them out).
  • Tweak the "Dash, Top Left/Right" and "Dash, Side Left/Right" boards to match measured lengths and angles.
  • Attach the "side" ones first, then attach the "top" ones to the "side" ones as shown.
  • Attach the shelf to the underside of the "side" cross-bars (also as shown.)

Next, cut the windshield.

  • It's a 3/4/5 triangle (18"x24" = 30"). Cut a 48x36 Lexan sheet to 48x30", then make it a trapezoid, with a 48" long edge and 42" (3'6) short edge. 
  • For the windshield sides, all the angles make them tricky, but it's easy enough to take a piece of cardboard (or scrap whiteboard), lay it over the opening, and trace it out, then cut the two 24x24" Lexan pieces to fit.

Before attaching the window,

  • paint the frame (black). You won't be able to once the window is attached. You don't need to do it all, but it's easier now than once the windows are in place.

Then attach the windows:

  • use clear caulk on the wood edges, and air-nail the Lexan to the frame.

The last step is the side panels. I'll cover these below, in the "Cosmetics" section, since it uses the same whiteboard as the nose.

  • Cut a 2'5 x 4' piece of one of the whiteboards.
  • Cut that in half (two 2'5x2' pieces), then tape/clamp them white-to-white (they need to be mirror images).
  • Mark a spot at 2 feet from one edge, and draw the diagonal from the 2'5 corner, and cut.
  • Use the nailgun to attach each panel piece to the frame, white side out.

The last step is the side panels. I'll cover these below, in the "Cosmetics" section, since it uses the same whiteboard as the nose.

  • Cut a 2'5 x 4' piece of one of the whiteboards.
  • Cut that in half (two 2'5x2' pieces), then tape/clamp them white-to-white (they need to be mirror images).
  • Mark a spot at 2 feet from one edge, and draw the diagonal from the 2'5 corner, and cut.
  • Use the nailgun to attach each panel piece to the frame, white side out.

Step 3: Assemble the Cockpit Section

For this you'll need a sheet of white board, one of the 4x3' sheets of Lexan, and some 2x4's and 2x2's, as shown.

  • If the Home Depot/Lowes guy didn't cut the whiteboard for you, you'll need to do that, as indicated.
  • Cut the 4x3 Lexan sheet in half (two 2x3 foot pieces.)
  •  Assemble the two frames – the 2x4's at the base, the fore and aft pieces left and right, and the top piece across the top (Obviously!) The tricky part is the second image above. See the notches?

 The "3 ft 11.25" height is to allow ¾" for the cross-beams between the left and right frames. The top pieces need to be offset high enough for them to "slip in". I used L-brackets in the inside corners to attach them. (I didn't use a screw because I need to be able to put in a screw from the top, through those cross-beams.

Next you'll need to attach the doors' Lexan and Whiteboard panels together with the piano hinges.

  • Butt them together tightly and lay the hinge across the top along the seam, then mark all the holes.  
  • Drill all the holes. (You may want to stack and clamp the Lexan and whiteboard panels together and drill through all four at a time. You're going to need 72 holes total – that way you can drill just 18 times.) 
  • Use a 3/16" drill bit to fit the fill in size here pop-rivets.
  • Install the 72 pop-rivets. (It will help to have an assistant. That's a lot of work!)  
  • Note: the hinge goes on the inside of each door, so it should be opposite the white side.
  • When you're done, pound them down with a hammer, and ideally, a punch tool. (Even more work!)

Now attach the door to the frame.

  • Lay the Lexan and whiteboard pieces across the frame, with the white part out, the hinge on the frame-side, and the Lexan against the 2x2 top, not the 2x4 base. 
  • Position four hinges evenly spaced between the outside of the Lexan and the top of the 2x2, with the hinge part up (so it will fold against the roof.) Mark the holes, then drill. Use pop-rivets on the Lexan (you definitely need to pound these flat), and screws to hold the hinges to the 2x2. Picture here. Illustrate the hinge position.

Finally, add the ceiling: (this is a tough one…)

  • Attach the two Top boards (PFT, PAT) to the 4' edges of the unfinished side of the "Pit Top" (PT) sheet with glue and air-nailer brads, (short ones!). 

That's it! You now have the two cockpit sides with doors, and the cockpit ceiling, ready to attach to the dashboard.

  • To do that, place the two sides against the corresponding sides of the dashboard section, line them up carefully, and attach with three screws on each.
  • Then place the ceiling panel across the top, with the two cross-beams dropping into the openings at the front and back of each side.
  • Screw these down into the 2x2's on the frames, to hold in place.

Next, try the doors.

  • You'll see that the hinges won't close completely to allow the doors to fold flat on-top because of the thickness of the top board.
  • To fix that, mark the area of the top that covers each hinge, and then cut them out. (A multi-tool is useful here). That will allow them to open flat across the top. 

Once those are cut and the doors are opening correctly, you're done with the cockpit section.

Step 4: Assemble the Cabin Section and Back

This one is really easy:

  • Build two more frames, similar to the Cockpit sides except for their width (4 feet instead of 3.)
  • Apply some glue to the outside sides of the frames,
  • Lay the two 4x4 foot whiteboard sheets (CL and CR) on top of them (white side up),
  • Nail the sheets to the frame boards with the air nailer to hold the glue while it sets.

That's it! 

Now the back:

Note: Mine is different because I had several 1 foot wide scrap pieces of Lexan and whiteboard from when I tried making the cockpit section 4 feet long. The doors were too heavy, so I shortened them to three feet. But this design was my original intent for the back.

  • Glue & Screw together the four "Back" pieces into a 4x4 foot square.
  • Apply some glue to the frame,
  • Lay the remaining sheet (CB) on top and align carefully, with the whiteboard side up (inside the ship.)
  • Then nail the sheet to the frame.

Put it together:

  • Attach the two Cabin Frame pieces to the back of the Cockpit section with three screws each.
  • Put the ceiling panel on top just as with the Cockpit ceiling.
  • Attach the back. I only needed 5 screws – one on each corner and one in the middle to keep it from bowing.

Step 5: Add the "Cosmetic" Stuff

If all you wanted was the enclosure, you're done. You and/or your kids will be spending most of your time inside anyway, so you might not care at all if it actually looks like a spaceship. 

But if (like me) you're campaigning for "grandpa of the decade", you want to build something like this, not just a giant 9 foot long shoebox. If that's you, read on!

You'll need to add the following parts:

  • Nose: Cut from the whiteboard remaining from the sheet the dashboard sides were taken from;
  • Wings and Tail: Cut from one or more foil-covered foam insulation sheets;
  • Engine: Mine is a cardboard box, four planters, and some dryer duct.

I'll explain how I made mine, but if you build one of these, please design your own "props"! The engine and wings are a great opportunity to show some creativity, without risking the rest of the design and having things not line up or something.

Step 6: The Nose

Don't worry about the angles – focus on symmetry and lengths.

  • First, if Home Depot didn't do it already, cut it in half down the middle. Then fold it over so the white sides are touching, and clamp together. 
  • For the right and left sides, measure 30" (2.5 feet) along one edge and mark. Then measure 6" from the same end along the other edge, and then measure another 18" (1.5 feet) and mark again. Draw the lines from the corner and the first spot you marked to these two. You should have a symmetric trapezoid 30" on one side and 18" on the other.
  • For the NT piece, do the same thing, except make the wide side 42" (3.5 feet), and the other side 30" (2.5 feet).
  • For the Dash pieces (DR, DL), measure 30" from the bottom edge on one side, and 24" on the other side, and draw the diagonal. (See diagram above.)
  • Make the four cuts.
  • Unclamp and separate the parts, then take the one symmetrical with NT (Nose Top), and cut a 30"x18" (2.5x1.5 ft) Nose, Front (NF) piece.
  • If you want, you can use the scrap to make an NB (Nose, Bottom) part for the front edge of the bottom, but it's optional.

Next, connect them together. I cut some 1x2's into 1x1's for this.

  • First, make a frame for the Nose Front piece, so you can attach the top and sides to it. Use glue and the nail gun, but also a small screw in each corner doesn't hurt.
  • Use a couple 1x1's along the angled sides of the top piece, and a 1x2 along the wide edge that connects to the Dashboard section. (Don't go all the way to the front edge- leave room for the thickness of the frame around the front piece.) Glue and nail these in place too.
  • Lay the top flat on a table, attach the front piece to it (glue and nail), and then attach the side pieces to the front piece and the framing along the top piece. Then glue and nail those too.

The result will look like the third photo.

Step 7: Dashboard Sides

In the previous step, there are two "leftover" pieces that fit the sides of the dashboard.

  • Attach them with glue and the nailgun.

Step 8: Wings and Tail

I've included drawings of my wings and tail, but will be very disappointed if you make yours just like mine. The foam material cuts really easily with the saber saw knife blade, and it's cheap, so don't be afraid to try your own ideas! 

Anyway, once you have decided on a shape for the wings:

  • Tape two sheets (or 2x8 foot half-sheets) together (foil side out) to make it easy to cut symmetric wings with one cut.
  • Draw your wing contours with a sharpie. 
  • Cut with the saber saw knife blade.
  • Separate, and use aluminum foil duct tape along the edge to protect the foam and make it look cool.

Make the tail:

  • Take some of the scrap and cut out your tail shape.
  • Use the spray adhesive on the plastic side of the foam, and glue on some aluminum foil. Use the aluminum tape to do the edge.
  • On mine, I taped on a 2x4 as a "base" so it doesn't need to be "stuck" to the top of the plane – it just sits there.

Step 9: "Realistic" Engines!

Most of this work was painting.

  • I carefully cleaned the packing tape off a heavy duty (dual layer) cardboard box, glued and taped the bottom, and painted the whole thing black.
  • I cleaned up the four planters (which had housed tomatoes at some point), and spray-painted black on the inside, and "hammered metal" on the outside. Then I screwed them into a leftover piece of whiteboard (also painted black), and attached that to the top of the box. 
  • Next, I cut 3" holes in the sides of the box and "screwed in" the 3" dryer duct tubing. On the other ends, I inserted round discs made of cardboard and metal-taped those over the openings, and attached Velcro. 

Step 10: Paint and "Polish"

The last step is to make it look nice. 

  • Disassemble all the sections, so you have the Nose, Dash, Cockpit parts, and Cabin parts (including Back), all separate.
  • Sand as needed. Make sure none of the screws are sticking up or sticking out.
  • Paint the insides of the frames and whiteboard panels black.
  • Paint the underside of the ceiling panels, and the outside of the back panel (frame and non-whiteboard side) with gray paint.
  •  Use black and white duct tape around the edges of the whiteboard and Lexan sheets, so there aren't any sharp edges you could get cut or scraped on.

Step 11: Put Back Together

Put it all back together! 

Recap:

  • Setup the dashboard
  • Attach the cockpit sides (doors) and roof
  • Attach the cabin sides and roof
  • Attach the back
  • Hang the "engine module" from the bent L brackets
  • Hang the nose
  • Put the wings on the floor next to it and the tail on top!

You're done!

Step 12: Plan the Next Steps

My son once explained that the reason we're never satisfied with our projects is that we learn so much while doing them, that we judge what we were able to do before against what we're able to do after, and of course it comes up short!

This project is no different, and I'm anxious to build a version 2! But meanwhile, here are some of the things I learned:

  • The whiteboard material is a bit fragile and heavier than I'd envisioned, once there are six 4x8 sheets involved! (I have a new design that angles the windows and reduces plexiglass used and also weight, using coroplast. It will look much cooler and be easier to transport.)
  • The seats are too low, and the swivel bases don't move easily. I'm going to build some adjustable "sleds" they can attach to. They'll still swivel, but also easily move but just forward and backward.
  • Pop rivets are cool but they are a lot of work! I wonder if I can rationalize one of these...)
  • Gravity isn't quite enough to keep the doors down and flush. I'll need to add a magnet of some kind.

Plans for version 2:

If I stay motivated (and see some interest from the community), I'll probably build a 'version 2'. This will use coroplast and 1x2's instead of whiteboards and 2x2's, making it much lighter, and it will have 18x36" side windows instead of 24x36" (and correspondingly smaller windshield.) It might look something like the drawing above.

Either way, I also plan to finish the "simulator" part and put those TVs to work, as shown in the final picture.

Final word:

This is my first "Instructable", so please go easy on me. If I've left out any details or made any mistakes, let me know and I'll add more. :)