Hen Saloon

This compact coop was designed to be functional, aesthetically pleasing, and easy to build.

At 37 square feet, it comfortably houses two to six chickens, assuming they will also have access to roam in a larger yard. The design is based on a deep-litter composting system, as chickens poop and the straw becomes soiled, fresh straw is added on top. Over time, the bedding ferments, providing beneficial probiotics for the hens while also creating rich compost for your garden.

This efficient, low-maintenance system only requires cleaning once a year. When your garden goes dormant, simply shovel out the compost and spread it over your garden beds. By spring, you’ll have nutrient-rich soil ready for planting.

The coop pictured is a prototype built for my mom using salvaged wood. However, in this guide, I’ve updated the design using standard lumber sizes for easier construction.

Step 1: SketchUp File

I’m a licensed architect and have raised chickens for most of my life.

This is the sixth coop I’ve built, and over the years, I’ve learned a lot, insights I’ll be sharing with you here.

One key feature of this design is the lack of a floor in the roosting box. In the wild, chickens roost in trees, preferring open airflow while being protected from wind. This coop provides enclosed walls to block direct wind while prioritizing ventilation.

If you live in a temperate climate, the four walls should be sufficient to keep your chickens warm, as they naturally huddle together at night. However, keep in mind that chickens originate from South Asia, meaning their feathers are better suited to hot, humid climates rather than extreme cold. Some breeds, like the Wyandotte, are more cold-hardy, but this design may not be ideal for snowy regions.

Feel free to explore the SketchUp file to better understand the design and customize it to suit your specific site conditions.

Step 2: Location Location

Choose a suitable location for the chicken coop, ideally on reasonably level ground to simplify construction.

Before building, check your local ordinances, some areas require coops to be at least 20 feet from any house, which is a good general guideline. Additionally, it's best to position the coop at least four feet from any fences. This allows any dogs or cats to patrol the perimeter and deter rats while also making construction easier by providing enough space to work comfortably.

While chickens need sunlight, they thrive best in partial or full shade, so they can regulate their temperature and be more comfortable. Positioning the coop in a less productive area of your yard can also make efficient use of space where plants may struggle to grow.

In this design, the coop is partially shaded by a large pine tree, providing natural protection from overheating.

Step 3: Price It Out

This PDF includes a rough budget and materials list.

While not exhaustive, it outlines the key materials and tools needed to complete the project. Be sure to check local hardware store prices for a more accurate estimate of the final cost.

Redwood is specified due to its natural rot resistance, as the prototype is unpainted. If you choose a different type of wood, painting it is essential to prevent premature rot and extend its lifespan.

Step 4: Getting Started

Here’s a list of cuts required for this design.

Before making any cuts, double-check the measurements against the design to ensure accuracy.

Additionally, it's good practice to measure as you go, as there may have been slight shifts due to site conditions.

Step 5: Lay the Foundation

Once you’ve chosen a suitable site, dig a 4-inch deep, level, rectangular hole that matches the coop’s footprint.

Set the corner blocks in place, check that they are level with each other. Then, fill the area with drain rock up to the top of the blocks.

Next, build the inner frame according to the dimensions shown in the reference image. Secure one layer of hardware cloth and two layers of weed barrier across the bottom, this step is crucial, as it prevents rats from burrowing in and keeps the drain rock from becoming clogged with compost. In the prototype the order is reversed, but it would be better to have the hardware cloth above the weed barrier so that it does not get damaged when you shovel out the compost.

Place the frame on the blocks, adjusting until level and ensuring the corner blocks are aligned to support both the front and rear faces of the coop. The coop is held in place by gravity, and once fully constructed, it will be quite heavy. However, if you live in an area where additional anchoring is needed, you can drive rebar stakes into the ground and attach them to the frame at this stage.

Step 6: Build the Coop

There are many ways to approach this, but here’s how we did it:

First, we built the front and rear faces of the coop. Using two sawhorses and a flat concrete surface made the construction process much easier.

To secure the hardware cloth, staple it every 4 inches, ensuring a tight fit.

For added strength, use at least three screws at each connection point on the 2x6s.

Step 7: Open for Business

We secured the face frames to the foundation frame with three screws beneath each vertical member.

To keep them upright and properly aligned, use a level and temporarily brace them with wood pieces cut at 45-degree angles fastened in place.

Step 8: Structural Reinforcement

We reinforced the four middle vertical members with L50 angles for added stability.

The corner members should be sufficiently secure once all the trim is screwed in place.

While I’m not a structural engineer, I have a decent understanding of what contributes to a strong, durable design.

Step 9: Install the Siding

Next, we installed the exterior 2x2 trim for the side panels and secured the 2x6 siding in place.

For a more budget-friendly option, you could use 1x6 siding instead, just be sure to purchase extra 1 1/4" screws to accommodate the thinner material.

The 2x2 trim pieces are cut at an angle to match the roof’s slope, ensuring a precise fit. Additionally, we hand-cut notches in the rafters so they would sit flush against the top plate for better stability.

Step 10: Constructing the Roof

We built the frame on the ground, then propped it up on sawhorses so that we were more comfortable while attaching the roofing material.

The polycarbonate manufacturer recommended 2-inch screws placed on every other ridge and an overlap of 1–2 ridges between sheets. Before securing anything, lay out all the sheets in their final configuration and follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for whichever roofing material you choose.

For proper ventilation, leave the small gaps under the corrugated roofing open on the upper side of the roosting box. Alternatively, drill holes in the soffit boards in that area and cover them with hardware cloth to keep out rats.

It took four people to lift the finished roof onto the coop. Each rafter is firmly secured to the front and rear frames using H2.5 ties. Once the roof was in place, we installed the soffit boards, an essential step, as they fully enclose the coop and further reinforce the roof’s stability.

Step 11: Make the Three Doors

Once that was complete, we moved on to constructing the doors.

Having a chop saw would have made this step much easier by providing consistent 45-degree cuts. Cutting the acrylic for the nest box window was also challenging, we used a special saw blade, taped the cut lines with blue painter’s tape, and ran the blade at high RPMs while moving slowly through the material. After that, we hung the doors, installed the handles, and secured the latches.

The updated design features a double-hung door, which makes it easier to toss compost into the coop without chickens slipping out past your feet.

Originally, we planned for the lower half of the door to have an acrylic window, but due to limited materials (and with the chickens arriving the next day) we opted to finish it with hardware cloth instead.

To add stability, we reinforced the door with corner braces, ensuring it remains rigid over time.

Step 12: The Chicken Ladder

This ladder provides a way for the hens to easily get to the nests and gives them more roosting options throughout the day.

The open rungs allow waste to fall through, preventing buildup and helping to keep the ladder clean. The evenly spaced steps ensure the hens can navigate it easily, even in low light. Secure every rung with two screws at each end to prevent rotation and maintain stability.

Step 13: Installing the Roosts

The roosts are strategically positioned to maximize space in this compact coop while ensuring the comfort of your flock.

Since chickens instinctively seek the highest perch, it’s essential to place the roosts higher than the nest box to prevent them from sleeping (and soiling) where they lay eggs.

Use square roosts instead of round ones. Chickens prefer to rest flat on their breastbone, and round roosts create uncomfortable pressure points, especially for heavier birds.

Step 14: The Nesting Box

The edge of the nest box is cut off at a 45 degree angle to discourage roosting and help keep the nests clean.

For easy maintenance, the bottom of the nesting box is made of hardware cloth, allowing dust and debris to fall through.

Each nest should be at least six inches deep to provide a comfortable and secure space for the hens to lay their eggs.

Step 15: Finishing Touches

Trim the interior with 2x2s to cover the raw edges of the hardware cloth for a clean and safe finish.

Install screw eyes centered on the middle rafters, then hang the feeder and waterer from them using chains. This hanging system is ideal because it allows you to adjust the height as the floor level gradually rises throughout the year. Be sure to use chains with links large enough to accommodate a carabiner for easy height adjustments.

Place small cups for grit and oyster shell to serve as visual indicators, this way, you’ll always know when these essential supplements need replenishing. Store feed in a metal trash can just outside the coop to keep it protected, and stack extra hay on two cinderblocks behind the coop for easy access.

A crucial design feature is the solid wood corner. This provides a safe hiding spot in case a predator attempts to chase the chickens from outside the coop. Without it, chickens could be relentlessly pursued until they collapse from exhaustion. The solid corner also offers shade, shelter from the wind, and an added layer of protection to help keep food dry.

Step 16: Just Add Chickens

Start enjoying all the rewards of chicken keeping! Chickens are not only beautiful and fascinating companions, but they also provide a natural way to recycle food scraps, rewarding you with fresh, delicious eggs.

To keep your flock happy and healthy, check on them regularly, ensure they always have access to food and water, and collect the eggs daily.

This coop design is intentionally low-maintenance. As the hay becomes soiled, simply add a fresh, dry layer on top. Over time, the floor will develop into a thick, composting layer of fermented hay, providing your chickens with beneficial probiotics. Just be sure the top layer stays dry to prevent foot rot.

If you've made it this far, thank you for reading! Feel free to ask any questions or share your thoughts. As a licensed architect and a chicken hobbyist of nearly 20 years, my goal in sharing this design is to help improve chicken housing all over the world.

Let’s take good care of the animals that sustain us.