Introduction: Industrial Looking Hanging Media Shelves
We have a lot of media, and we needed a nice way to display it and make it accessible. We also wanted something that would fit our design style. Last criteria, it needed to be something that I can make. While I am fairly handy, I am no cabinet maker. This design allows for some slop :)
The main picture below shows eight shelves of six foot board. This will hold a grand total of about 960 movies. This is what I will be describing in this instructable.
The second picture is a five foot wide with six staggered shelves version. While slightly more complicated, it should be easy to figure out after this instructable.
The basic idea is that I would use heavy duty hooks, steel cable, and wood shelves to build it (basically cheaper stuff that I can find at home depot). The wire would fit into a groove that I cut and I would use a stopper fastener on the wire to keep it in place.
Keep in mind this is just hanging on the wall, and can move, so don't put anything really breakable on it. Especially with little ones around.
Check out my other industrial shelves for a complete set: Equipment Shelves and TV Ledge
The main picture below shows eight shelves of six foot board. This will hold a grand total of about 960 movies. This is what I will be describing in this instructable.
The second picture is a five foot wide with six staggered shelves version. While slightly more complicated, it should be easy to figure out after this instructable.
The basic idea is that I would use heavy duty hooks, steel cable, and wood shelves to build it (basically cheaper stuff that I can find at home depot). The wire would fit into a groove that I cut and I would use a stopper fastener on the wire to keep it in place.
Keep in mind this is just hanging on the wall, and can move, so don't put anything really breakable on it. Especially with little ones around.
Check out my other industrial shelves for a complete set: Equipment Shelves and TV Ledge
Step 1: Tools and Materials
I have a table saw, but you might be able to get by without one it you have a jig saw or are really accurate with a hand saw (a jig would probably help). I don't have a drill press which would help, but obviously is not necessary.
Tools:
Pencil
Ruler
Compass
Tape Measure
Miter Saw (This could be replaced with a hand saw easily)
Dowel Kit (If you have a drill press, you don't need this)
Drill
Nice Sharp 3/8" drill bit
3/32" counter sink drill bit (for screw pilot hole drilling)
4" C-Clamps (Or just bar clamps)
Bar Clamps
Table Saw
Palm Sander (I love this sander for how easy it is to install the paper taut)
Sawhorses
Heavy Duty Wire Cutters
Level
Crimper (looks like bolt cutters, but instead of cutting, they crimp)
Materials:
Paper (for design and sketching)
1"x2"x1' Red Oak
1"x6"x6' Pine (with or without knots, up to you, or any other wood for that matter)
Screws of various sizes
150 Grit Sand Paper
Stain
Rags
about 38' of 3/32" steel cable
6 splicing fasteners for the steel cable
48 stopper fasteners for the steel cable
Heavy Duty Steel Hooks
Masking Tape
Tools:
Pencil
Ruler
Compass
Tape Measure
Miter Saw (This could be replaced with a hand saw easily)
Dowel Kit (If you have a drill press, you don't need this)
Drill
Nice Sharp 3/8" drill bit
3/32" counter sink drill bit (for screw pilot hole drilling)
4" C-Clamps (Or just bar clamps)
Bar Clamps
Table Saw
Palm Sander (I love this sander for how easy it is to install the paper taut)
Sawhorses
Heavy Duty Wire Cutters
Level
Crimper (looks like bolt cutters, but instead of cutting, they crimp)
Materials:
Paper (for design and sketching)
1"x2"x1' Red Oak
1"x6"x6' Pine (with or without knots, up to you, or any other wood for that matter)
Screws of various sizes
150 Grit Sand Paper
Stain
Rags
about 38' of 3/32" steel cable
6 splicing fasteners for the steel cable
48 stopper fasteners for the steel cable
Heavy Duty Steel Hooks
Masking Tape
Step 2: Design and Sketchs
Tools:
Pencil
Ruler
Compass
High School Math... that I need to look up on the internet now.
Materials:
Paper
Eraser
First thing I always do is sit down and draw things out till I get something that makes sense, then I refine it and create more detailed drawings where needed.
Here are my refined drawings. The first image is the board details. Where I wanted to put the holes and cuts with measurements. The there a 3/8" wide by 3/8" deep hole cut into the boards at six locations, four on each end and two in the middle. Then I would cut a 1/8" line into the board so the wire will be able to slide in, and the stopper fastener can sit in the 3/8" hole.
I would probably change a few things from this drawing. The holes/cuts on the end of the board were too close to the end, I had a couple break on me (although gluing them back on was fine). Probably 3/4" to 1" from end of board would be better.
Second image is me calculating where to put the stopper fasteners on the steel cable. A squared + B squared = C squared.
VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure that the hooks are attached to a stud or top plate! Doubtful it will stay up otherwise.
The last image is the jig I made so I could easily and consistently drill the 3/8" holes on the 1x6 board. The wood with the 3/8" holes in it needs to be some kind of hard wood. I just picked up a scrap piece of oak up from home depot. It needs to be hard wood so it will hold its form longer. If this was pine it would just get torn up very quickly.
Pencil
Ruler
Compass
High School Math... that I need to look up on the internet now.
Materials:
Paper
Eraser
First thing I always do is sit down and draw things out till I get something that makes sense, then I refine it and create more detailed drawings where needed.
Here are my refined drawings. The first image is the board details. Where I wanted to put the holes and cuts with measurements. The there a 3/8" wide by 3/8" deep hole cut into the boards at six locations, four on each end and two in the middle. Then I would cut a 1/8" line into the board so the wire will be able to slide in, and the stopper fastener can sit in the 3/8" hole.
I would probably change a few things from this drawing. The holes/cuts on the end of the board were too close to the end, I had a couple break on me (although gluing them back on was fine). Probably 3/4" to 1" from end of board would be better.
Second image is me calculating where to put the stopper fasteners on the steel cable. A squared + B squared = C squared.
VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure that the hooks are attached to a stud or top plate! Doubtful it will stay up otherwise.
The last image is the jig I made so I could easily and consistently drill the 3/8" holes on the 1x6 board. The wood with the 3/8" holes in it needs to be some kind of hard wood. I just picked up a scrap piece of oak up from home depot. It needs to be hard wood so it will hold its form longer. If this was pine it would just get torn up very quickly.
Step 3: Build the Jig
Tools:
Pencil
Tape Measure
Miter Saw (This could be replaced with a hand saw easily)
Drill
Dowel Kit (If you have a drill press, you don't need this)
Nice Sharp 3/8" drill bit
3/32" counter sink drill bit (for screw pilot hole drilling)
4" C-Clamps (Or just bar clamps)
Materials:
1"x2"x1' Red Oak
Scrap pieces of wood
1 1/4" Drywall Screws
I have learned from my brother that if you spend some time making a good jig it will save you time (and frustration) in the long run. I am sure there could be a better way to do this, as I am still learning how to do jig's, but you get the idea. You could skip this step and just do everything by hand, but it will be slower and less consistent.
Before creating the jig I first cut all the 1"x6" shelf boards down so they would be the same size on both length and width. This is not 100% necessary, I just wanted to try and be more accurate. Then working with these measurements I created the jig.
At this point I just followed my sketch. I cut two pieces of scrap that would run along the long edges of the board. Then I cut two crossing pieces that would attach the two edge pieces. One of the crossing pieces will hold the oak piece while the other is for fitting over the end of the board.
Then I took the Dowel Kit and drilled out the two guide holes that will help me consistently drill the holes in the 1"x6" board. The reason that I use the dowel kit is to make sure I get a perpendicular hole. If you have a drill press, just use that.
To attach this all together I clamped down the three pieces that form a "U" shape that will fit around the end of the 1"x6" board. Then pre-drilled a pilot hole for the two screws (if you don't the wood will split, especially the head without the counter sink). Then screwed them together.
Then I attached the oak piece to the other crossing piece. Then attach that crossing piece to the "U" shape.
Pencil
Tape Measure
Miter Saw (This could be replaced with a hand saw easily)
Drill
Dowel Kit (If you have a drill press, you don't need this)
Nice Sharp 3/8" drill bit
3/32" counter sink drill bit (for screw pilot hole drilling)
4" C-Clamps (Or just bar clamps)
Materials:
1"x2"x1' Red Oak
Scrap pieces of wood
1 1/4" Drywall Screws
I have learned from my brother that if you spend some time making a good jig it will save you time (and frustration) in the long run. I am sure there could be a better way to do this, as I am still learning how to do jig's, but you get the idea. You could skip this step and just do everything by hand, but it will be slower and less consistent.
Before creating the jig I first cut all the 1"x6" shelf boards down so they would be the same size on both length and width. This is not 100% necessary, I just wanted to try and be more accurate. Then working with these measurements I created the jig.
At this point I just followed my sketch. I cut two pieces of scrap that would run along the long edges of the board. Then I cut two crossing pieces that would attach the two edge pieces. One of the crossing pieces will hold the oak piece while the other is for fitting over the end of the board.
Then I took the Dowel Kit and drilled out the two guide holes that will help me consistently drill the holes in the 1"x6" board. The reason that I use the dowel kit is to make sure I get a perpendicular hole. If you have a drill press, just use that.
To attach this all together I clamped down the three pieces that form a "U" shape that will fit around the end of the 1"x6" board. Then pre-drilled a pilot hole for the two screws (if you don't the wood will split, especially the head without the counter sink). Then screwed them together.
Then I attached the oak piece to the other crossing piece. Then attach that crossing piece to the "U" shape.
Step 4: Using the Jig on the Shelves
Tools:
Pencil
Tape Measure
Drill
Dowel drill bit and stopper from Kit
Bar Clamps
Sawhorses
Materials:
1"x6"x6' Pine (with or without knots, up to you, or any other wood for that matter)
Now that we have the jig this step is easy. Take the drill bit that came with the dowel kit. It cuts a flatter whole than a regular drill bit which is why I choose to use it. Looking back, it probably would have been better to use the nice sharp drill bit so it wouldn't tear up the wood as much. Anyways, stick the drill bit through the guide hole and so that 3/8" is stick out of the hole. Now attach the bit stopper so that this will be the depth of the hole when drilled.
Clamp the jig to the end of the board (choose the worse looking side of the board since it will be on the bottom). Now just drill out the two holes. Move the jig to the other end of the board and repeat.
For the center, just find the center of the board plus 3/8" (the distance from the center of the guide holes to the edge of the oak piece). Remove the bottom crossing piece of the "U" from the jig. Line up the edge of the oak piece on your mark, clamp and drill.
Repeat on each shelf board.
Pencil
Tape Measure
Drill
Dowel drill bit and stopper from Kit
Bar Clamps
Sawhorses
Materials:
1"x6"x6' Pine (with or without knots, up to you, or any other wood for that matter)
Now that we have the jig this step is easy. Take the drill bit that came with the dowel kit. It cuts a flatter whole than a regular drill bit which is why I choose to use it. Looking back, it probably would have been better to use the nice sharp drill bit so it wouldn't tear up the wood as much. Anyways, stick the drill bit through the guide hole and so that 3/8" is stick out of the hole. Now attach the bit stopper so that this will be the depth of the hole when drilled.
Clamp the jig to the end of the board (choose the worse looking side of the board since it will be on the bottom). Now just drill out the two holes. Move the jig to the other end of the board and repeat.
For the center, just find the center of the board plus 3/8" (the distance from the center of the guide holes to the edge of the oak piece). Remove the bottom crossing piece of the "U" from the jig. Line up the edge of the oak piece on your mark, clamp and drill.
Repeat on each shelf board.
Step 5: Cutting Grove for Steel Cable
Tools:
Pencil
Tape Measure
Drill
Bar Clamps
Table Saw
Materials:
1"x6"x6' Pine (with or without knots, up to you, or any other wood for that matter)
Scrap pieces of 1"x4" wood
1" Drywall Screws
1 1/4" Drywall Screws
I used a table saw, but again you might be able to figure out a different way since this project allows for a fair amount of slop.
Since this wasn't a through cut, and was standing the board on end, and after talking with my brother (who is a professional cabinet maker), we came up with this. I took some 1"x4" board and made a pusher out of it. I had about 6" of it to the right of the blade, and the rest (maybe 3 feet) to the left. I attached this to the miter gauge with the 1" screws. Then I attached a smaller 1"x4" blocker piece to the pusher piece so it would allow me to push my 1"x6" piece against it to make my cuts at 1/2" (or the center of the hole.
I raised my blade up 15/16" and then cut the four holes on the end of the board. Then I removed the small blocker piece so I could do the center holes. Then I used the fence with a scrap board pushed up against it that I could remove after clamping down the 1"x6" shelf board. This way the shelf board would move freely and there was no risk of binding.
Pencil
Tape Measure
Drill
Bar Clamps
Table Saw
Materials:
1"x6"x6' Pine (with or without knots, up to you, or any other wood for that matter)
Scrap pieces of 1"x4" wood
1" Drywall Screws
1 1/4" Drywall Screws
I used a table saw, but again you might be able to figure out a different way since this project allows for a fair amount of slop.
Since this wasn't a through cut, and was standing the board on end, and after talking with my brother (who is a professional cabinet maker), we came up with this. I took some 1"x4" board and made a pusher out of it. I had about 6" of it to the right of the blade, and the rest (maybe 3 feet) to the left. I attached this to the miter gauge with the 1" screws. Then I attached a smaller 1"x4" blocker piece to the pusher piece so it would allow me to push my 1"x6" piece against it to make my cuts at 1/2" (or the center of the hole.
I raised my blade up 15/16" and then cut the four holes on the end of the board. Then I removed the small blocker piece so I could do the center holes. Then I used the fence with a scrap board pushed up against it that I could remove after clamping down the 1"x6" shelf board. This way the shelf board would move freely and there was no risk of binding.
Step 6: Sanding and Staining
Tools:
Palm Sander (I love this sander for how easy it is to install the paper taut)
Sawhorses
Materials:
150 Grit Sand Paper
Stain
Rags
Just sand it down to the smoothness you want. I pay special attention to the ends of the boards so they won't soak up as much stain, keeping them lighter like the rest of the board. This is probably the longest step.
Then just rag on the stain and wipe off excess. Let dry.
Palm Sander (I love this sander for how easy it is to install the paper taut)
Sawhorses
Materials:
150 Grit Sand Paper
Stain
Rags
Just sand it down to the smoothness you want. I pay special attention to the ends of the boards so they won't soak up as much stain, keeping them lighter like the rest of the board. This is probably the longest step.
Then just rag on the stain and wipe off excess. Let dry.
Step 7: Steel Cables
Tools:
Pencil
Tape Measure
Level
Heavy Duty Wire Cutters
Crimper (looks like bolt cutters, but instead of cutting, they crimp)
Materials:
about 38' of 3/32" steel cable
6 splicing fasteners for the steel cable
48 stopper fasteners for the steel cable
Heavy Duty Steel Hooks
Masking Tape
While you are waiting for the shelves to dry you can start working on the steel cables.
First put two hooks parallel to each other about 7' up on the wall installed upside down (this will keep the wires at the same starting point. Next mark a line at each place you want a stopper. From my diagram, I know that I have three of the back wires with stoppers every 9" for the 8 shelves. Three front wires with the first stopper at 9 3/4" and the rest at 9". Use a level to make sure the lines are straight across. (Looking back I should have just installed the front wire hook 3/4" higher than the other.)
Next use the splicing fasteners to create a loop on the cable and crimp. Hang the wire then cut off after the last line you drew for that wire (leave a little extra so you have some wire to attach the last stopper). Repeat for the other 5 wires.
Next I used masking tape above and below the stoppers to hold them in place so they would be easier to crimp. This way you can take down the wire and crimp, and not have to worry about lining stuff up.
Crimp all the stoppers then remove the tape. I noticed that the crimper's 3/32" slot was much too small, so I just used the end of the crimper to do everything.
Pencil
Tape Measure
Level
Heavy Duty Wire Cutters
Crimper (looks like bolt cutters, but instead of cutting, they crimp)
Materials:
about 38' of 3/32" steel cable
6 splicing fasteners for the steel cable
48 stopper fasteners for the steel cable
Heavy Duty Steel Hooks
Masking Tape
While you are waiting for the shelves to dry you can start working on the steel cables.
First put two hooks parallel to each other about 7' up on the wall installed upside down (this will keep the wires at the same starting point. Next mark a line at each place you want a stopper. From my diagram, I know that I have three of the back wires with stoppers every 9" for the 8 shelves. Three front wires with the first stopper at 9 3/4" and the rest at 9". Use a level to make sure the lines are straight across. (Looking back I should have just installed the front wire hook 3/4" higher than the other.)
Next use the splicing fasteners to create a loop on the cable and crimp. Hang the wire then cut off after the last line you drew for that wire (leave a little extra so you have some wire to attach the last stopper). Repeat for the other 5 wires.
Next I used masking tape above and below the stoppers to hold them in place so they would be easier to crimp. This way you can take down the wire and crimp, and not have to worry about lining stuff up.
Crimp all the stoppers then remove the tape. I noticed that the crimper's 3/32" slot was much too small, so I just used the end of the crimper to do everything.
Step 8: Installation
Tools:
Drill
Level
Ladder if needed
Screw driver
Materials:
3 Heavy Duty Hooks
Start by finding the stud or top plate board to screw hooks into.
VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure that the hooks are attached to a stud or top plate! Doubtful it will stay up otherwise.
Next use a level to make sure the hooks are level. Install hooks, use a screw driver to help turn the hooks.
Hang the 6 wires, back ones go on first, then front ones. Next install boards onto the stoppers by sliding the cable through the groove and setting the stopper onto the 3/8" holes.
Put stuff on shelves... and your done.
Drill
Level
Ladder if needed
Screw driver
Materials:
3 Heavy Duty Hooks
Start by finding the stud or top plate board to screw hooks into.
VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure that the hooks are attached to a stud or top plate! Doubtful it will stay up otherwise.
Next use a level to make sure the hooks are level. Install hooks, use a screw driver to help turn the hooks.
Hang the 6 wires, back ones go on first, then front ones. Next install boards onto the stoppers by sliding the cable through the groove and setting the stopper onto the 3/8" holes.
Put stuff on shelves... and your done.