Introduction: Jungle Juice Tap
So me and my roommates were looking at having some parties this year. My roommate already has a kegerator so we always have beer on tap, however whenever you go to parties there is always jungle juice or some fruity drink mix.
The problem is everyone is getting their hands in the punch, the stuff gets all over the place, no one is controlling it, and it just feels too much like a college party.
Now I wanted something to build that was useful, creative, unique and above all sets the standard for "not a typical college party".
Materials (all purchases at my local Lowe's):
3/8" Ball Valve #41977 $8.21
3/8" ID Tubing 25' #22273 $8.25
3/8" ID Adaptor #27971 (x2) $5.36
3/4" 90* Elbow PVC #23868 (x2) $0.60
3/4" PVC pipe >2' ---------- $1.50
Thread Seal #25010 $1.07
Epoxy Mix #20640 $3.77
Wood for Countertop
Large container for liquid
Brackets for Countertop
(Optional) Bracket for back of tap
Tools:
1" Speedbore Bit
Drill
Scissors
File/Sandpaper/Scotch brite
A means to cut the PVC
The problem is everyone is getting their hands in the punch, the stuff gets all over the place, no one is controlling it, and it just feels too much like a college party.
Now I wanted something to build that was useful, creative, unique and above all sets the standard for "not a typical college party".
Materials (all purchases at my local Lowe's):
3/8" Ball Valve #41977 $8.21
3/8" ID Tubing 25' #22273 $8.25
3/8" ID Adaptor #27971 (x2) $5.36
3/4" 90* Elbow PVC #23868 (x2) $0.60
3/4" PVC pipe >2' ---------- $1.50
Thread Seal #25010 $1.07
Epoxy Mix #20640 $3.77
Wood for Countertop
Large container for liquid
Brackets for Countertop
(Optional) Bracket for back of tap
Tools:
1" Speedbore Bit
Drill
Scissors
File/Sandpaper/Scotch brite
A means to cut the PVC
Step 1: Building the Tap
So first off make sure you have a sturdy surface to bore through to build the tap into. We had some free 12"W x 1"H x 6'L board that we just cut to fit in between the bar and the wall.
Use the 1" speedbore bit to cut a hole through the board. Now you will find the PVC shouldn't fit, PVC is measured by its Inner Diameter, the outter diameter is never exact, use sand paper or whatever means you have to slightly open the hole. You want it so the PVC fits very snug, the tighter the better secure it will be.
Once the PVC fits, feed it through till you meet the desired height you want for the tap, mark the PVC below the board and cut it to size. Mine worked out to be a tad over 12".
Use the 1" speedbore bit to cut a hole through the board. Now you will find the PVC shouldn't fit, PVC is measured by its Inner Diameter, the outter diameter is never exact, use sand paper or whatever means you have to slightly open the hole. You want it so the PVC fits very snug, the tighter the better secure it will be.
Once the PVC fits, feed it through till you meet the desired height you want for the tap, mark the PVC below the board and cut it to size. Mine worked out to be a tad over 12".
Step 2: Running the Tubing
You need to find where to keep the juice and a way to create the most pressure (within reason). Fortuneletly for me the bar is located right next to the stairs and up stairs we have this little area off the hallway which was perfect to keep the barrel.
Once you find the best fit area figure out how much tubing you will need. If there is no way to get the barrel upstairs you could even put a shelf above the bar as close to the ceiling as possible.
I calcuated my pressure to be around 4psi:
Density of liquid x Total height change = psi
.44 x 9' = 3.96 psi
Sure the equation isn't exact as I don't know what the final density of the liquid will be, and the height was calcuated from the bottom of the barrel to the end of the tap.
However as you will see on the final page it passes water with an amazing amount of force!
Once you find the best fit area figure out how much tubing you will need. If there is no way to get the barrel upstairs you could even put a shelf above the bar as close to the ceiling as possible.
I calcuated my pressure to be around 4psi:
Density of liquid x Total height change = psi
.44 x 9' = 3.96 psi
Sure the equation isn't exact as I don't know what the final density of the liquid will be, and the height was calcuated from the bottom of the barrel to the end of the tap.
However as you will see on the final page it passes water with an amazing amount of force!
Step 3: Run the Tubing
Now that you have the location of the barrel figured out its time to run the tubing.
Feed the tube up through the bottom of the PVC pipe. (Picture #1 and 2)
Once the tube is fed, put one of the 90* elbows on the top (Picture #3)
Now you will need to get some of the extra PVC pipe left over from when you cut the tap to height. Cut 2 small sections off of it so that you can extend the valve from the 90* elbow, approximately 2" long each (see Picture 7)
Now you need to assemble the valve assembly, make sure you put plenty of thread seal on and tighten them down. Once everything is epoxied in, there is no getting back to the thread if its leaking. (Picture #4)
Now take the 2 sections of PVC you cut and put them on either end of the valve, if one is shorter than the other like in my build, remember you want the valve standing straight up for off, and pull down toward you to start the flow!!!! Which for this model valve means handle on the right.
Use the epoxy to seal around the outside of the PVC and fill inside the PVC all around the threaded section, careful not to get any epoxy in or on the ribbed section where the tube attaches! (Picture #5)
Once the epoxy dries and the section is sturdy, finish the assembly as I have shown.
Feed the tube up through the bottom of the PVC pipe. (Picture #1 and 2)
Once the tube is fed, put one of the 90* elbows on the top (Picture #3)
Now you will need to get some of the extra PVC pipe left over from when you cut the tap to height. Cut 2 small sections off of it so that you can extend the valve from the 90* elbow, approximately 2" long each (see Picture 7)
Now you need to assemble the valve assembly, make sure you put plenty of thread seal on and tighten them down. Once everything is epoxied in, there is no getting back to the thread if its leaking. (Picture #4)
Now take the 2 sections of PVC you cut and put them on either end of the valve, if one is shorter than the other like in my build, remember you want the valve standing straight up for off, and pull down toward you to start the flow!!!! Which for this model valve means handle on the right.
Use the epoxy to seal around the outside of the PVC and fill inside the PVC all around the threaded section, careful not to get any epoxy in or on the ribbed section where the tube attaches! (Picture #5)
Once the epoxy dries and the section is sturdy, finish the assembly as I have shown.
Step 4: Final Run and Finishing the Bar
So after ripping apart the entire room, several trips to Lowe's, dirty clothes and a few beers later. I finally have my bar. Still needs some more signage and other decorations. But considering i just finished it I think I did alright!
Here is to show just how fast the flow rate is on this baby, it does come out rather quick and bubbles up the drink but I think with some tweaking it should work fine, and if I do keep it this fast who cares cause its only juice.
Future Modifications:
The last thing I have to add to this is a cooling system that will go directly below the tap to instantly chill the liquid before it is dispensed, aka ice cold drinks...without the ice :)
Here is to show just how fast the flow rate is on this baby, it does come out rather quick and bubbles up the drink but I think with some tweaking it should work fine, and if I do keep it this fast who cares cause its only juice.
Future Modifications:
The last thing I have to add to this is a cooling system that will go directly below the tap to instantly chill the liquid before it is dispensed, aka ice cold drinks...without the ice :)