Introduction: Massive Coffee Table

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Hello fellow DIYers,

One of my projects that I have started some time ago is about a simple couch table. Anyone who has ever worked with wood probably does not need an introduction to make something like in the picture. Nevertheless, I want to describe my experiences and requirements with this project and some tips, that I would have liked to know beforehand. Maybe it will inspire one of you to create something of your own.

Final thoughts that I put here deliberately at the beginning:

  • This project is guaranteed to take more time than you think
  • The finished product will end up being heavier than you think (which is not necessarily a disadvantage).
  • In the end, when you use the table, you will wish you had worked more carefully in one place or another. So work carefully from the beginning and don't sloppy around.

Steps:

  1. Get your supplies
  2. Wood handling
  3. Rack construction
  4. Assembly

Step 1: Get Your Supplies

Since the moto of this project is “Massive” the first thing you should do is go to the hardware store or lumber dealer and see what is available (not too expensive). Now you should make a plan in your head how you want it to look at the end and what you need for it.

In my case I have chosen:

  • Top - three massive wooden beams 15x15x90cm which were already slept, with large cracks and relatively cheap.
  • Bottom - Concrete (already mixed). In the end, the already mixed stuff was not good enough (more on this later).

I also needed:

  • sanding tools
  • epoxy resin & epoxy color pigment
  • wood wax
  • some wooden panels and styrofoam (for mold)
  • screws, washers & corkboard

Step 2: Wood Handling

To make a table like the one in the photos, you need dry,
smooth, rectangular, beams with large clean cracks. So sanding the beams and clean the cracks. For the sanding, I recommend going at least to 180. Do the final fine sanding after the epoxy.

Now get the epoxy you trust (I had Dipon epoxy) and the color pigments you like. Put your beams down and tape (duct tape) all the cracks at the bottom and sides where epoxy can leak out. Believe me, the epoxy will find its way even if the unsealed crack is a meter away. Even after sealing all sides you will not finish in one session. Pour in some of the mixed epoxy, wait for it to cure, and then try to fill the crack(s) completely with new mixed epoxy (sometimes you may have to do it even 3 times). The epoxy must protrude. Now repeat it for each side of the beam (bottom is not necessarily).

Tip: work carefully with the epoxy on the faceside of the beams (By faceside I mean the side where the wood has circle pattern. Do not know the correct term.) Every drop that drips beside the cracks sucks itself deeper into the wood and the sanding afterwards lasts far too long.

Tip: If your cracks are too big and you don't want to waste too much epoxy then plug them with something like paper towel. Works of course only if your epoxy color is not transparent

After all sides are done its sanding time. Now use a protective mask and go at least to 360 when sanding. Up to this step I have sanded by hand but after a few hours of sanding I had enough and got me an excentre grinder.

When everything is sanded paint it with the varnish of your choice. I would recommend a natural wood wax, because it is resistant, has almost no additives and dries much faster than wood oil.

Step 3: Rack Construction

After I was done with the massive upper part, none of my
previous ideas for the legs were worthy enough to “carry the burden”. So I thought if nothing else why not make it beton’y. Basically, the concrete moldingis no different from any other molding. I still made many mistakes and here are my tips:

  • Ready-made concrete mixtures from the hardware store are not exactly designed for strength. The finished molds were too porous or even collapsed under their own weight. I have had much better results after buying Cament, gravel and sand and mixing it myself. I recommend more cement, less sand and coarser gravel. Then just add water little by little until the consistency feels “good”
  • On the pictures you can see my original concept for the feets. In the end it had been too heavy and easy to break. However you make your legs, make them hollow because of weight reduction and without sharp edges
  • Use smooth boards for mold making (then you don't have to sand the concrete at the end) and styrofoam for hollowing (because it's easier to take out afterwards).
  • Spray the inside of the mold with any oily spray (eg WD40) so that the parts later come off well
  • In the end the parts will be screwed together so you will need holes in the concrete feet. You can either drill them or make them with styrofoam while molding.

After the feet are finished you can sand them (if necessary) and seal them with clear varnish or impregnating spray.

Step 4: Assembly

Now the step has arrived where you realize that you better check what load your living room floor can bear. I recommend to bring all parts individually to the place where the table will be placed later and only then screw everything together. Use cork boards between the floor and the feet (to protect the floor) and between the feet and the wooden beams (to compensate for the unevenness). Use wide washers with the screws on concrete feet. I have even used shims because of fear that the concrete will give way. Do not use too small screws and do not forget to pre-drill the holes in the wood. Do not drill too small holes in the wood. I managed to break off 2 screws because of this.