Introduction: Outdoor Router Cabinet
I needed to put my router outside because I am sharing my internet with my neighbor. While I originally was going towards a waterproof cabinet, because of high temperatures inside the box I had to add a fan that exhausts at the top. To protect it I mounted it underneath an overhang.
FYI: The instruction photos may be a little haphazard. This is because I decided to do an instructable after I had already finished the project. So I tore as much down as I felt comfortable and started from there.
FYI: The instruction photos may be a little haphazard. This is because I decided to do an instructable after I had already finished the project. So I tore as much down as I felt comfortable and started from there.
Step 1: Parts List
Here are the parts you'll need:
* Orbit Weather Resistant Sprinkler Timer Cabinet ~$30
* ASUS RT-N66U ~$150 (any router that will fit in the box and has external antennas will do, but this router is pretty awesome.)
* 3 X 8"/20cm Male to Female RP-SMA Extension Cable ~$5.50 x 3 = $16.50
* Coolerguys 120x25mm Rear Exhaust Blower Fan 5 Volt with USB Connector ~$15
* Velcro Reusable Straps ~$10 (these are just generally useful)
* Velcro Brand Sticky Back Tape 3/4"X3-1/2" 4/Pkg-Black ~$5
* Short surge protector. I found one in the dollar store that had 3 outlets and a 1 foot cord.
* 3/4 inch nm clamp ~$1
* 1/2 inch nm clamp ~$.70
* 2 - 1 1/4 inch #16 nails
Tools I used:
* Drill with 1/4" bit
* Phillips screwdriver
* 1 1/4" hole saw bit
* Needle nose pliers
* Dremmel
* File
* Hammer
* Orbit Weather Resistant Sprinkler Timer Cabinet ~$30
* ASUS RT-N66U ~$150 (any router that will fit in the box and has external antennas will do, but this router is pretty awesome.)
* 3 X 8"/20cm Male to Female RP-SMA Extension Cable ~$5.50 x 3 = $16.50
* Coolerguys 120x25mm Rear Exhaust Blower Fan 5 Volt with USB Connector ~$15
* Velcro Reusable Straps ~$10 (these are just generally useful)
* Velcro Brand Sticky Back Tape 3/4"X3-1/2" 4/Pkg-Black ~$5
* Short surge protector. I found one in the dollar store that had 3 outlets and a 1 foot cord.
* 3/4 inch nm clamp ~$1
* 1/2 inch nm clamp ~$.70
* 2 - 1 1/4 inch #16 nails
Tools I used:
* Drill with 1/4" bit
* Phillips screwdriver
* 1 1/4" hole saw bit
* Needle nose pliers
* Dremmel
* File
* Hammer
Step 2: Unscrew the Mounting Plate
This will be the easiest step.
I'm leaving how to get power to the box up to you. I happened to have a nice outside light I wasn't using so I drew power from there. You can see it in the bottom left of the picture.
I'm leaving how to get power to the box up to you. I happened to have a nice outside light I wasn't using so I drew power from there. You can see it in the bottom left of the picture.
Step 3: Cut Off the Support Post in the Middle
This will get in our way when we install the fan. Make sure that the bottom is pretty flat. In the picture it was underneath the bottom of the fan.
Step 4: Cut the Hole for the Fan
I used a dremmel for this, but you can cut it by any means. Line up the exhaust portion of the fan at the top of the box. Take care that you aren't going to be cutting the mounting plate screw posts. Also give yourself enough room to not cut into the bottom of the box. You'll also need to cut in the back part so the fan will be underneath the plate. I think it would be best to cut it from the outside. I cut it after it was mounted so I had to do it from the inside which made a pretty ugly cut.
WARNING: putting the fan at the top made it no longer weather proof. So if you would like to keep it weather proof I would look at the possibility of mounting it on the left orright and build something that will protect the exhaust from rain. Since my box is under an overhang I wasn't too worried.
WARNING: putting the fan at the top made it no longer weather proof. So if you would like to keep it weather proof I would look at the possibility of mounting it on the left orright and build something that will protect the exhaust from rain. Since my box is under an overhang I wasn't too worried.
Step 5: Cut a Hole for the Surge Protector Cord
Use the 1 1/4" hole bit to cut a hole in between the top door hinges. Be careful to not cut the hinge.
This one could be optional. I had a power brick on my router that likes to stick straight out.This doesn't work so well in the case. I had a big mess of wires already so at the time I didn't want to run my cord through the existing holes. Plus the plug didn't fit through them. If I was to do it again I would look at buying a short extension cord and see if I can stuff the power brick under the mounting plate.
This one could be optional. I had a power brick on my router that likes to stick straight out.This doesn't work so well in the case. I had a big mess of wires already so at the time I didn't want to run my cord through the existing holes. Plus the plug didn't fit through them. If I was to do it again I would look at buying a short extension cord and see if I can stuff the power brick under the mounting plate.
Step 6: Drill Three Holes for the Antennas
Use the 1/4" bit to drill the holes at the bottom these should be evenly spaced and be in front of the mounting plate.
Step 7: Add the Clamps to the Existing Holes
This is to keep the cords from getting cut. Also seals up the holes. You can see the metal pieces on the left and right.
Step 8: Mount the Exhaust Fan
Insert the fan into the cut out and using nails nail it into place. My hammer was only able to fit in two places so I only got two nails in, but it worked fine. Be careful to not break the exhaust fan. They don't have to be super tight as the mounting plate will keep it from vibrating.
Step 9: Mount the Box
If you are going to be mounting this on the wall then screw it in with the provided screws.
Step 10: Pull in Your Network Cable
Bring your cable in and let it hang outside the box. Use Velcro ties so it can fit neatly next to the fan with enough extra length to be able to plug it in the router.
You can see mine pulled into the right hole.
You can see mine pulled into the right hole.
Step 11: Build the Velcro Strap to Hold the Router On
Take 3 of the velcro straps and place them together.
Step 12: Put on the Mounting Plate
Take the strap and wrap it around the plate through the cut out. attach it together so it will hold on while you are screwing it in.
Step 13: Add SMA Extension Cables
Insert the male ends through the drilled holes and screw them in. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to tighten them up.
Step 14: Add the Surge Protector
Put the surge protector cable through the hole and plug it in.
Step 15: Add Velcro to the Router
Cut out small squares of velcro and attach them to the feet of the router.
Step 16: Attach Router to Plate
Pull off the sticky velcro backing. Attach the router to the plate and secure with the strap.
Step 17: Attach Antenna Extension Cable
Screw in the antenna extension cables into their closest spots on the router.
Step 18: Plug in the Network Cable
Step 19: Plug in the USB Cable From the Fan
Hopefully you have a USB slot otherwise you may want to look for a USB ac adapter.
Step 20: Plug in the Router Power Cord
Put the router power cord in the same hole as the surge protector and plug it in the router. You can plug the other end into the surge protector.
Step 21: Other Items
I have an OB100 that I use for my home telephone. I attached it to the door using velcro strips and attached the other end to the main phone box for my home. I use the velcro ties to clean up the network cable to the router.
Step 22: Attach the Antennas
Attach the antennas that came with the router to the outside posts.
Step 23: Attach Power Strip to Top of Case
Use velcro strips to attach the surge protector to the top of the case. You can see in the picture I put it in front of the fan.
Step 24: Turn on the Router and Close It Up
Now it should be ready to go. It's a fairly clean way of building a housing for your router.