I found myself in need of storage for the mower and snowblower, but wanted it to differ from the cookie cutter storage sheds out there at every home improvement store. I love mixing mediums like metal and wood because they are eye catching. I drew this out on the sketch pad as I do with all my projects and went to work. The materials needed were 2 x 4’s for framing, treated plywood for floor, ceiling and walls, metal roofing panels, screws, pry-bar, sawzall, black paint, framing nail gun, and several pallets.

Step 1: Framing the Shed

I started by framing the shed to the length,height and width needed for the items I planned to store. Remember to account for the thickness of the wood when determining your final measurements. I used 2 x 4's for this framing and made sure to account for the door spaces when framing. After the 2 x 4's were secured using a nail gun I installed a plywood floor and plywood around the outside walls and roof. This was pressure treated plywood due to it being outdoors. I used 0.75 thickness treated ply. I then painted all the plywood on the exterior of the walls black. I knew that the pallet wood was imperfect, which would create gaps when installed, so used the black paint to improve the appearance where you could see the gaps.

Step 2: Swinging Door and Roof

On one end of the shed I installed a hinge swinging plywood door as pictured above. This allows for rolling items like the snowblower, scooter and mower right in. The doors on the front would make maneuvering large items like this difficult. Two sheets of galvanized metal roofing were applied and screwed onto the top for the roof. I left 1 inch overhang on all edges. The roof panels were placed so that water runs off the side and not the back, because the shed is close to the house.Make sure to overlap the roof panels if using more than one to prevent gaps that will allow water to seep through.

Step 3: Pallet Sides

I used the best pieces of each pallet for the sides. When possible I used a pry bar to take them apart, but if there was no give I would cut the pieces off with the sawzall. I used a nail gun for framing, installing plywood and all pallet boards. The metal roof was installed with screws. Be sure to use a level when installing each pallet board or you could end up with big gaps at the end.

Step 4: Sliding Pallet/Metal Doors

I decided to use the left over metal cut off the roof to make the doors. I made sure the doors were large enough to be an inch wider on each side and the top opening. The pallet boards were then cut to meet the full dimensions needed for the door, minus the metal sheets dimensions.I used screws to connect all pieces on the door because nails would split the wood. I also made sure to predrill the holes.

Step 5: Sliding Door Install

After looking into prices I chose to use hardware for pocket doors, instead of barn door hardware for the doors. The price difference was significant and I'm hoping due to them being protected by the roof overhang the material will hold up over time. This would not be an option if making heavy doors. I believe it was around $14 for the pocket hole track/kit compared to $60-200 for barn door hardware.

Step 6: Latches

I used a basic hook latch for the sliding doors, to keep them closed. A double hinged hasp was used for locking the hinged door. You could also use a standard gate latch on the sliding doors if needing them locked. Consider only creating one entry if wanting an easier project.

I'm extremely happy with the way this turned out. It's one of my favorite pallet projects thus far. I used a total of 6 pallets to complete this project. Pallet boards crack easily when prying off the pallet, so you need more than you would think to finish a project like this.