Supplies

Step 1: Lamp Base

Sand all the squares well, removing the sharp edges.
Mark the center of each of the squares and drill a hole in it with an 8 mm drill bit.
Use yellow glue to vertically gluing the squares, leaving the largest squares below. Center the hole that we made previously in all of them. Keep the circular wooden part of the base apart for the next step.
Drill two holes with the 7 mm drill bit in the circular base, one in the center and the other from one side towards the center of the circle, trying to merge the two holes in the middle.
Depending on the type of switch you have chosen, it can be placed on the base or directly on the cable in this case, they can be placed on the base by making a small cut in the base so that the switch enters without problems.

Step 2: Lampshade

For the lampshade you can use any type of deep plastic plate, and you’ll drill a hole on it.

The plate that has been chosen will have a hole made in the central part of the size of the screw.
Only one handle of the claps will be used, which will be bent so that it is as straight as possible and both are crossed at the top.
Two small holes will be made in the square at the top of the lamp, which will serve to insert the ends of the handle.
The screw will join the handle and the plate, tightening very well to prevent the plate from moving.

Step 3: Wiring and Connections

In this case, the electrical connections will be made before painting, since varnish will be used to paint the base, but if you use spray I recommend painting it before making all the connections.

Through the hole at the base of the lamp, two cables will cross, one black and one red, in order to identify which will be the negative and the positive.
First the bulb holder will be connected, it has two metal tabs, a negative one that is normally connected to one side of the bulb holder and a positive one that is located at the bottom.
The next thing will be to connect the switch, it has two tabs in which the negative cable is connected, one tab is connected to the bulb holder and the other is connected to the 12v adapter.
The positive cable is connected directly from the bulb holder to the 12v adapter.
To keep all connections fixed, silicone is used to spread it at the junction of the tab and the cable.

Step 4: Paint and Varnish

The plate is spray painted and the base with varnish, in this case you can start painting either of the two and you can use the colors you prefer or have on hand, if you do not have paint you can leave it unpainted.

As the plate is painted with spray, it will have to be painted outdoors and on a piece of cardboard, this will serve to avoid splashing paint on the area where you are painting and not touching the plate when you finish painting it.
Before using the spray, shake it well. Once it has been shaken, spread it in small and uniform layers, always moving towards one side, either left to right or vice versa, wait 10 to 15 minutes to give another layer and you have to give 3 to 4 layers of painting.
Place a piece of cardboard under the base to avoid painting something else.
You have to shake the varnish very well, to apply it you can use anything from a thick paintbrush to thin brushes.
The varnish will be applied going by levels either from top to bottom or vice versa.

Step 5: Assembly

Once the base and the lampshade are dry, all this will be joined, you can do it with glue or silicone.

The switch can only be placed in the slot or if you prefer to give it a little more solidity, put a little silicone inside on the edges.
The lampshade and the base will also be joined with silicone, in the two holes that we made previously, silicone will be put and the lampshade will be placed ensuring that it is straight, it may take a few seconds for the silicone to dry.