Introduction: Rustic/Industrial Log Table
From Forest to Table I take a Log, split it in two and make it into a coffee table. This Rustic / Industrial coffee table was not easy. I used a bandsaw and chainsaw to cut the log in half. I then used a router jig to plane down both sides. I used my Track saw to cut off a portion of the each log so I can then epoxy them together. Once cured, I welded up some steel legs and made a joint in the side of the logs for it to slide into. Once all that was finished I topped it off by adding 5 bow ties to prevent the logs from splitting over time. This was a really fun build and challenged all of my woodworking skills.
Supplies
1. 20V Chainsaw (highly recommend) - https://amzn.to/3hQpvD2
2. Wood Finish- https://amzn.to/2TmgWq6
3. Epoxy- Get 10% off by using code "Blake" on Checkout! https://masepoxies.com/product/handy-repair-kit
4. Biscuit Jointer- https://amzn.to/3hTupiG
5. Track Saw (corded version)- https://amzn.to/3zicNTz
6. Angle Grinder- https://amzn.to/3rpEBTq
7. Tig Welder- https://amzn.to/3xoL6rL
8. Router- https://amzn.to/3wXDRG2
9. Surfacer Bit- https://amzn.to/2UvDmWz
Step 1: Check Out the Full Video for All the Details!
Step 2: Find Nice Log and Cut to Length.
Search the forest for a nice log. When looking, make sure that it is wide enough, and try and find one that doesn't taper a lot because once cut in half, you want both sides to be fairly square. Also look for rot/bugs/wetness.
I used my 20V dewalt chainsaw to cut this downed tree in half.
Step 3: Cut Log in Half.
Draw a centerline for reference. I first tried to put this large log through my bandsaw but ended up breaking the blade. I then switched back to my chainsaw. If I were to do this again I would have started with the chainsaw. Make sure to keep it as straight down the centerline as possible.
Step 4: Flatten Both Tops and Cut Down One Side.
I used my router jig to flatten one side of each log. Once flat, I used my track saw (you can use circular saw with a guide) to cut one side off about 2" from the sides. This will allow me to get a good glue up when both logs are combined.
Step 5: Join the Logs
I first made sure the ends were perfectly flat by using my #6 hand plane.
Once flat, I used my biscuit jointer (you can use dowels/dominos ect.) to help strengthen the joints. I used a liberal amount of epoxy to glue both sides together. I then clamped them overnight.
Step 6: Flatten the Top... Again
Once the epoxy was cured, I used my router jig and flattened the tabletop once again. I then used a belt sander/ hand plane/ orbital sander to get it perfectly flat and smooth.
Step 7: Metal Legs
I wanted my legs to be slightly over 90 degrees so using an angle grinder and an angle finder I traced lines at around 50 degrees or so. I then made two cuts, making sure to not go all the way through the 4th side. I can then bend the metal for a clean joint that is around 100 degrees. Make sure to match both sets of legs before welding together.
I used my TIG welder to weld everything. I then cleaned off all the metal and welds with an angle grinder. Lastly I painted the metal black followed by a "hammered black" spray paint.
Step 8: Cut Groove in Log Ends for Metal Legs.
Using my track saw I cut grooves on the log ends. I made around 8 passes so that I then could clean everything out using a chisel/router. Once cleared out test fit with a scrap piece of metal.
Step 9: Bowties and Wood Finish
I placed 5 bowties along the tabletop. These bowties will prevent the logs from splitting apart overtime. To maker the bowties I used a simple jig on my bandsaw.
I traced the bowties onto the tabletop. Using a chisel I outlined each bowtie. I then used my router to bore out most of the material making sure not to get too close to the edges. I finished up using a chisel. I then glued in the bowties, planed and sanded flush.
Once the tabletop was nice and flat, I did a final sanding before applying my heavy duty wood finish. I decided to use Fabulon super satin because it is extremely durable and easy to use.
Step 10: Attach Metal Legs
I first centered my legs on the table. I then drilled 4 holes into the metal with my drill press. I then marked the location of the holes on the wood and used a slightly smaller drill bit to drill those holes. I used 4 6" lag bolts painted black to secure each leg to the table.
Step 11: Wooden Leg Ends
I wanted to add another element to this table so I milled up some walnut and added some leg ends to each metal leg. I first cut down to size on my table saw. Then using my miter gauge I cut multiple passes on each piece to then chisel out so It would fit into the metal leg. I used my router to round over the edges before applying epoxy to the ends and hammering them into the metal legs. I then traced a line on all legs so it would be flush with the floor and used a hand saw to cut them flush.