Introduction: TINY KATANA

Katana is a long, single-edged sword used by Japanese samurai.

I have always wanted to build one. What is more challenging than building a tiny katana.

This katana will be 100mm long scale 1:9. This is fairly simple to make and can easily fit into the palm.

Supplies

  • Metal plate 100mm*50mm*1.8mm
  • Bras plate 60mm*60mm
  • Popsicle sticks
  • Files
  • Needle files
  • Marker pen
  • Vernier Caliper
  • Dremel tool(optional)
  • Coping Saw
  • Sand papers (120,180,200,400,600)
  • Vice
  • Super glue
  • Drill Machine
  • Drill Bit (1.5mm)
  • Aerosol spray paint
  • Electrical insulating Tape

Step 1: Katana Blade

  • Print the template and separate the blade outline from the template.
  • Glue the blade template onto the metal plate.
  • Cut a rough pattern of blade using angle grinder or coping saw and separate it from the metal plate.
  • Use a file to reach proper shape of the blade following the outline of the blade template. Make use of needle files for small material removal.
  • Once the true outline is achieved place the blade flat and file the faces to remove burrs. Remove the glued paper template as well.
  • Cover the faces of the blade using a blue marker pen.
  • Divide the blade into 2 parts by marking a seam using a digital Vernier caliper. In our case this comes out to be 1.5 mm hence make use of digital Vernier calipers for precise measurements and marking.
  • Clamp the blade by the handle and start filing the bevel till the marked seam as shown in the photos.

Step 2: Habaki (Collar)

  • Cut the collar rectangle template from the paper and glue it onto the 1 mm brass plate and repeat the same filing steps as we did for the blade.
  • Hold the cut rectangle in vise jaws with centerline aligning the jaws edge and hammer the cutout to bend it.
  • Make a u bend out of this rectangle and wrap it to the blade.
  • Place the blade flat and hammer the collar rectangle to get the shape of the blade. You can heat it on a gas stove for better and easier forming.
  • Hammer the handle of the blade with collar placed in the blade and on the anvil. This will create a proper rectangular groove.
  • File the bent collar such that the collar sits half way on the blade and handle.
  • Cut the extra length of the collar. The inner groove of the collar should resemble the shape of the blade.

Step 3: Tsuba (Guard)

  • Glue the handle template on to the 1mm brass plate.
  • Drill two holes using 1.5 mm drill in the rectangular section.
  • File the drilled holes to create a rectangular pocket. I have used a Dremel power tool to do the job.
  • Cut and separate the circular tsuba from the brass plate.
  • Do a dry fit and check if the blade fits properly in the guard rectangular hole.

Step 4: Saya (Scabbard)

  • I have used popsicle sticks for scabbard and handle since it can easily be cut and shaped and it perfectly matches the thickness of the blade.
  • Place the blade on the popsicle stick and align it to the center.
  • Trace the blade curves on the popsicle sticks.
  • Using a sharp knife/blade to cut the traced part.
  • Glue the cut popsicle on other two popsicle on either sides making sure the cut popsicle retains the original shape.
  • Using a file roughly shape the scabbard into an oval.
  • Once shaped use sandpapers to sand the scabbard. Start with lower grit sand papers such as 180 grit and gradually increase it.
  • Spray paint aerosol paint on the scabbard.

Step 5: Tsuka (Handle)

  • Repeat the steps we did in the previous steps(scabbard) for the handle.

Step 6: Sanding Blade

  • Wrap or glue a piece of sand paper onto popsicle stick and sand the blade slowly .
  • Use lubricants such as wd40 for better sanding.
  • Start with smaller grit papers and gradually increase it.

Step 7: Buffing

I have used a buffing pad that was included in Dremel kit with green buffing compound.

Step 8: Tsuka Ito (Cord Wrap)

  • Cut a thin strip (2mm) of electrical insulating tape of the length 30cm.
  • Wrap this strip on the handle in a helical pattern making sure the adhesive side of the tape is sticking to the handle.