Introduction: TINY KATANA
Katana is a long, single-edged sword used by Japanese samurai.
I have always wanted to build one. What is more challenging than building a tiny katana.
This katana will be 100mm long scale 1:9. This is fairly simple to make and can easily fit into the palm.
Supplies
- Metal plate 100mm*50mm*1.8mm
- Bras plate 60mm*60mm
- Popsicle sticks
- Files
- Needle files
- Marker pen
- Vernier Caliper
- Dremel tool(optional)
- Coping Saw
- Sand papers (120,180,200,400,600)
- Vice
- Super glue
- Drill Machine
- Drill Bit (1.5mm)
- Aerosol spray paint
- Electrical insulating Tape
Step 1: Katana Blade
- Print the template and separate the blade outline from the template.
- Glue the blade template onto the metal plate.
- Cut a rough pattern of blade using angle grinder or coping saw and separate it from the metal plate.
- Use a file to reach proper shape of the blade following the outline of the blade template. Make use of needle files for small material removal.
- Once the true outline is achieved place the blade flat and file the faces to remove burrs. Remove the glued paper template as well.
- Cover the faces of the blade using a blue marker pen.
- Divide the blade into 2 parts by marking a seam using a digital Vernier caliper. In our case this comes out to be 1.5 mm hence make use of digital Vernier calipers for precise measurements and marking.
- Clamp the blade by the handle and start filing the bevel till the marked seam as shown in the photos.
Attachments
Step 2: Habaki (Collar)
- Cut the collar rectangle template from the paper and glue it onto the 1 mm brass plate and repeat the same filing steps as we did for the blade.
- Hold the cut rectangle in vise jaws with centerline aligning the jaws edge and hammer the cutout to bend it.
- Make a u bend out of this rectangle and wrap it to the blade.
- Place the blade flat and hammer the collar rectangle to get the shape of the blade. You can heat it on a gas stove for better and easier forming.
- Hammer the handle of the blade with collar placed in the blade and on the anvil. This will create a proper rectangular groove.
- File the bent collar such that the collar sits half way on the blade and handle.
- Cut the extra length of the collar. The inner groove of the collar should resemble the shape of the blade.
Step 3: Tsuba (Guard)
- Glue the handle template on to the 1mm brass plate.
- Drill two holes using 1.5 mm drill in the rectangular section.
- File the drilled holes to create a rectangular pocket. I have used a Dremel power tool to do the job.
- Cut and separate the circular tsuba from the brass plate.
- Do a dry fit and check if the blade fits properly in the guard rectangular hole.
Step 4: Saya (Scabbard)
- I have used popsicle sticks for scabbard and handle since it can easily be cut and shaped and it perfectly matches the thickness of the blade.
- Place the blade on the popsicle stick and align it to the center.
- Trace the blade curves on the popsicle sticks.
- Using a sharp knife/blade to cut the traced part.
- Glue the cut popsicle on other two popsicle on either sides making sure the cut popsicle retains the original shape.
- Using a file roughly shape the scabbard into an oval.
- Once shaped use sandpapers to sand the scabbard. Start with lower grit sand papers such as 180 grit and gradually increase it.
- Spray paint aerosol paint on the scabbard.
Step 5: Tsuka (Handle)
- Repeat the steps we did in the previous steps(scabbard) for the handle.
Step 6: Sanding Blade
- Wrap or glue a piece of sand paper onto popsicle stick and sand the blade slowly .
- Use lubricants such as wd40 for better sanding.
- Start with smaller grit papers and gradually increase it.
Step 7: Buffing
I have used a buffing pad that was included in Dremel kit with green buffing compound.
Step 8: Tsuka Ito (Cord Wrap)
- Cut a thin strip (2mm) of electrical insulating tape of the length 30cm.
- Wrap this strip on the handle in a helical pattern making sure the adhesive side of the tape is sticking to the handle.