Introduction: Tiny Not a Rectangle/The Detangler Instructions
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About: I’m no very active here anymore but I sometimes check in.
So, I was browsing ‘ibles and I came across the NAR pistol. I looked in the comments and someone had made an even smaller one and they posted ONE picture. So I made it and modified it slightly. And here it is! It shoots about 60 to 80 feet with two #32’s and three doubled-up #64’s (those were new bands and I had a backwind) using a finned yellow rod as ammunition. It must be angled for maximum range. The good thing about this one (other than the relatively low piece count) is the fact that in the event your pin breaks, you probably have some more yellow rods on hand to replace it.
Here are the pros and cons:
Pros:
Good range for its size.
True trigger
Not too big
Reliable.
Has sights
Doesn’t need too many pieces
Can handle quite a lot of bands
Cons:
Despite being small, this isn’t exactly a pocket gun.
Yellow ram rod, despite not being good for power, this is a VERY common piece.
Low ROF.
Range could be a bit better.
Not very ergonomic.
Assembly can be a bit painful.
Here are the pros and cons:
Pros:
Good range for its size.
True trigger
Not too big
Reliable.
Has sights
Doesn’t need too many pieces
Can handle quite a lot of bands
Cons:
Despite being small, this isn’t exactly a pocket gun.
Yellow ram rod, despite not being good for power, this is a VERY common piece.
Low ROF.
Range could be a bit better.
Not very ergonomic.
Assembly can be a bit painful.
Step 1: Parts List
This is an estimate:
Connectors: 20 yellows, 11 whites, 6 blue clips, 1 brown clip, 4 green, 5 light grey, 10 purple/dark grey, 5 orange, 8 red
Rods: 30 green (2 are optional so without them it’s 28), 14 white, 8 blue, 8 yellow
Other: 4 blue spacers, 2 grey spacers (or 6 blue spacers, making it a total of 10 blues) 5 Y clips, half of a green rod or some hot glue, 2 cut dark grey/purple or ball sockets, 2 small wheels (optional), electrical tape, scotch tape (optional but recommended), a flathead screwdriver or needle nose pliers, some size #32 rubber bands, and some size #64 rubber bands.
Connectors: 20 yellows, 11 whites, 6 blue clips, 1 brown clip, 4 green, 5 light grey, 10 purple/dark grey, 5 orange, 8 red
Rods: 30 green (2 are optional so without them it’s 28), 14 white, 8 blue, 8 yellow
Other: 4 blue spacers, 2 grey spacers (or 6 blue spacers, making it a total of 10 blues) 5 Y clips, half of a green rod or some hot glue, 2 cut dark grey/purple or ball sockets, 2 small wheels (optional), electrical tape, scotch tape (optional but recommended), a flathead screwdriver or needle nose pliers, some size #32 rubber bands, and some size #64 rubber bands.
Step 2: Barrel
Make the barrel! This will hurt your fingers so to decrease pain use a flathead screwdriver or pliers for the hard parts. DON’T USE THE PURPLE CLIP ON THE PIN GUIDE, IT PREVENTS THE PIN FROM HITTING THE TRANSFER PIECE! Also, don’t put those two green rods on the sides of the front yellow piece.
Step 3: Handle
Make the handle. I only used one wheel because that’s all I could find when I made this.
Step 4: Body and Trigger
Make the body and trigger. AGAIN, DO NOT PUT THE PURPLE CONNECTOR ON THE PIN GUIDE!
Step 5: Connecting and Firing Pin
Final assembly of the gun. Pic 4 shows how the pin and pin guide should look. Optionally, put blue clips, Y clips, or purple connectors on the rods sticking out the sides (not pictured).
Step 6: Banding and Useage
Put the rubber bands on as shown. To use it, pull back the pin, then load in a projectile in the front as far as you can. Next, point it in a safe direction and pull the trigger. Canadammo (yellow rod with a red connector) or yellow rods with fins work well. Finned yellow rods go 60 to 80 feet.