Introduction: Tree Fort Stage 1
Our granddaughter was coming to visit during the summer and my wife suggested that we should build her a tree fort as something special for her. So, we decided that not only would we build the beginnings of a tree fort, but it would also be added to in stages as she visits. Stage 1 is the basic platform that I will be adding too. Future suggestions are welcome. So far, I am thinking of a climbing wall as an alternative entrance and a firefighter's pole for exiting. Once she hits double digits ideas will continue but increase with fun, adventure and safety in mind...
Supplies
18 - 2" X 6" X 8'
8 - 2" X 4" X 8'
6 - 8" X 5/8" deck screws
5lbs of 3.5" deck screws with T25 head
24' of wire fencing (I had leftover on hand from a fencing project)
fencing staples to secure the fencing
angle grinder to cut the fencing
chop saw
impact driver with various bits
hammer
tape measure
creative construction thinking hard hat
Step 1: Build the Box Frame
I was planning on clearing the two pine trees the tree fort is secured to in favor of some close by hardwood trees. So, I am not worried about taking any precautions to preserve the trees as they may still be removed one day in the distant future.
The distance between these two trees was 7' 5". The first thing I did was on level ground build a 4' X 7' 5" frame for the base deck. Using some family muscle that was available I secured it to the two trees with 3 of the deck screws on each side. The most important thing here to remember is to ensure the deck is level between the two support trees. And we chose the height to be safety conscious as we are building for a roughly 40" child, who is not only growing, but a fearless climber.
Step 2: Add the Decking
We chose a width of 4' since we would get two deck boards from each 8' deck board. You can use any type of deck boards you wish. We chose to use pressure treated wood for this entire build to keep it simple. Using the 3" deck screws we secured the decking with uniform spacing between the boards. We chose a close spacing to keep fingers safe from getting pinched or small items from dropping through.
Step 3: Add Railings and Fencing
We wanted a very open look and modeled the rails after full sized decks that use pig wire instead of slats. Back to my flat ground I built the three full length railing first. With the angle grinder I cut the fencing and then stapled it to the rails. After cutting and installing the vertical supports I recruited that family muscle to help hang the sides and secure in place with more of the deck screws. The end with the opening above the ladder I assembled from within the tree house. All wire was checked for any sharp edgers for safety purposes and corrected as needed.
Step 4: Stage 1 Finishing Steps
We finished up by adding a ladder made of scrap materials at the opening for easy entry to the tree house. We used a 2" X 6" X 46" for the upright and 2" X 4" X 16" for the rungs.
Total cost for the project was just about $200.