Introduction: Wire a Car Stereo to a Computer PSU
This is the second case i have made. i am going to teach you how to mod your old computer case into a stereo and wire a car stereo to a computer PSU.
Tools:
-wire cutters/strippers. (or just use a knife like how i did)
-needle nose pliers
-solder-less butt connectors (unless you plan to solder your wires)
-Computer PSU
-computer tower (or any other metal case)
-car stereo
-dremel or similar
-tape measure
-pop rivet gun
-paint
-time
-a speaker terminal
-a drill
optional:
lights, plexiglass, etc.
it would be nice to have a jigsaw, like this- http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00917235000P , so i can make an instructable for a speaker box
Step 1: Know Your Wiring
Wiring from PSU:
yellow____12v
red______5v
orange___3.3v
Black____ground
Wiring from stereo:
Red_____ign sitch
yellow___constant 12v
black____ground
VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!! In order for your psu to work when not connected to the mother board, the green wire MUST be connected to any ground wire.
if you wish to add a switch to the PSU so you dont have to unplug it all the time,
-carefully take apart the psu.
-be careful not to touch the capacitors.
-cut the blue wire (positive), strip it, and add a butt connector to each end of the blue wire.
-then connect enough wire to extend to the switch (depending on where you put it).
-connect the wire to the switch. i used hot glue to keep the wires from touching each other on the switch.
MAKE SURE YOUR MAIN POWER CABLE IS UNPLUGGED. i flipped the breaker when adding in the switch.
yellow____12v
red______5v
orange___3.3v
Black____ground
Wiring from stereo:
Red_____ign sitch
yellow___constant 12v
black____ground
VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!! In order for your psu to work when not connected to the mother board, the green wire MUST be connected to any ground wire.
if you wish to add a switch to the PSU so you dont have to unplug it all the time,
-carefully take apart the psu.
-be careful not to touch the capacitors.
-cut the blue wire (positive), strip it, and add a butt connector to each end of the blue wire.
-then connect enough wire to extend to the switch (depending on where you put it).
-connect the wire to the switch. i used hot glue to keep the wires from touching each other on the switch.
MAKE SURE YOUR MAIN POWER CABLE IS UNPLUGGED. i flipped the breaker when adding in the switch.
Step 2: Prepare the Case
the case i chose was smaller than the last time i built one. and i still am looking for even smaller cases. i was missing the side panel and so i chose to have the case lay sideways with a plexiglass cover.
it had a tray that was riveted in for the floppy disk. you can drill out the rivets to remove them.
then i used roofing and siding metal (corner pieces) that i got from the shop at school.
i measured and riveted them in place on the ugly side where i cut the tray from. (originally the front)
sand the case just enough to paint will adhere, but try not to sand to the bare metal. (unless you are painting a bright color)
it had a tray that was riveted in for the floppy disk. you can drill out the rivets to remove them.
then i used roofing and siding metal (corner pieces) that i got from the shop at school.
i measured and riveted them in place on the ugly side where i cut the tray from. (originally the front)
sand the case just enough to paint will adhere, but try not to sand to the bare metal. (unless you are painting a bright color)
Step 3: Measure Twice, Cut Once
measure the stereo side to side and up and down. i wanted to make sure i was dead center, so i measured and remeasured my markings. i waited until later to cut this out.
then i had to make a lip for the plexiglass, which wasnt big enough to cover the entire case. i used the metal material and made a lower lip. then to cover the horribly cut side of the plexiglass, i made an upper lip which pinched the plexiglass in place.
then i added extra support rails for the stereo
then i had to make a lip for the plexiglass, which wasnt big enough to cover the entire case. i used the metal material and made a lower lip. then to cover the horribly cut side of the plexiglass, i made an upper lip which pinched the plexiglass in place.
then i added extra support rails for the stereo
Step 4: Screw It
drill out holes to screw in the plexiglass. be careful not to tighten the screw too tight or it will crack the glass.
Step 5: Speaker Wire Management
i wanted to have easy access to the terminal in case of replacement. so i cut out a plate big enough to fit in the hole on the tower where the motherboard connectors were.
i then measured and used a dremel to cut out the place on the plate where the terminal would go. once it fit, i used screws (normal computer screws) to hold it in.
i then removed the terminal and attached colored wire to the pos and neg connections on the terminal. and once again hot glued them in place to prevent touching.
i then measured and used a dremel to cut out the place on the plate where the terminal would go. once it fit, i used screws (normal computer screws) to hold it in.
i then removed the terminal and attached colored wire to the pos and neg connections on the terminal. and once again hot glued them in place to prevent touching.
Step 6: Adding in the Radio
i am still figuring out a way for the stereo to be held in place so it does not move, but for now it stays in place. i also have to figure out my cable management for the power wires.
like ive said before, wire the green wire to any black. then attach this set of wires to the neg on the stereo, or attach any other black wire from the psu to the neg on the stereo. (it doesnt matter)
then attach the yellow and red wired from the headunit to the yellow from the psu.
and then attach a pos and neg terminal wire (make sure they are next to each other on the terminal plate) to the corresponding pos/neg wires from the headunit.
like ive said before, wire the green wire to any black. then attach this set of wires to the neg on the stereo, or attach any other black wire from the psu to the neg on the stereo. (it doesnt matter)
then attach the yellow and red wired from the headunit to the yellow from the psu.
and then attach a pos and neg terminal wire (make sure they are next to each other on the terminal plate) to the corresponding pos/neg wires from the headunit.
Step 7: More Touch Ups, Painting, and Accesories
i decided to paint the outside of the psu, so i took it apart, taped up the holes, and painted/clear coated.
i cut out a blank piece of metal for the other half of the opening and painted it as well.
i painted the whole case black, and painted the inside white for better light reflection.
i added in a fan that runs on a 12v wire. i ran the wires around the bottom to hide them for now.
then i added in lights. i wanted to use cold cathodes, but i figured christmas lights would work well. i wired in about 2 or 3 lights to a 5v wire and about 4 to a 12v wire.
Step 8: All Done. and My Other Stereo I Made
enjoy. one downside i have found is if you turn the volume too loud, then the psu will shut off. so all that is needed is a bigger voltage psu. mine is 250v.