Zen Table

Hello everyone, I got inspired by this genius

I saw the video but I wasnt going to disarm one of my printers, so I developed new pieces and made all the procees to make my own version, I called "Zen Table"

it is a long project and a little bit expensive, so be ready to work hard.

Supplies

as general review, in this project you will need:

a 3D Printer

knowledge about digital circuits

knowledge about cnc machines

great ability with mechanisms

Step 1: Hardware (Electric)

These are the needed pieces for the electric part of the project

• Shield Ramps 1.4 - 1 piece
• LCD module for ramps 1.4 with module for shield SD "RepRapDiscount Smart Controller" 1 piece
• Drivers for step motor drv8825 3 pieces
• Jumpers for drivers 9 pieces
• Arduino mega 1 piece
• Nema 17 Motor Steps 17hs4023 0.7amp 1.4kg/cm 3 pieces
• 12v source 10 amps 1 piece
• LED strip 3 meters
• End-of-run switches (limit switches) 2 pieces
• Electric cable the amount depends on the distance from the table to plug

Step 2: Hardware (Mechanical)

these are the mechanical parts

• Screws M3 20mm
• Screws M3 9mm
• Nuts M3
• Profile 2020 50 cm (can be made longer or smaller but the
  simulation is made for profiles of 50 cm) 3 pieces
• GT2 teeth band 4 meters
• 12mm long wooden screws
• Wooden board of 50cm by 50cm
• Neodymium magnet 20mm in diameter by 5mm thick
• Sphere-shaped magnet
• GT2 pulley 10 mm ,20 teeth, bore 5 mm (with bearing) 3 pieces

• GT2 pulley 10 mm ,20 teeth, bore 5 mm (for motor shaft) 3 pieces

• Ballbearings (bearings) 608zz 9 pieces

Step 3: 3D Printed Parts

all the parts were designed in PTC creo Parametric

all except the band tensor , here is the link to the original publish

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2854971

• "buje.stl"x 6 pcz
• "carro.stl"x 2 pcz
• "carro_sencillo.stl" x 1 pcz
• "llanta.stl"x 9 pcz
• "polea1.stl" x 2 pcz
• "Body_X_-_[_Mk8_.stl" x 1pcz
• "Knob_-_[_All__-_Ver._3.stl" x 1pcz
• "Screw_-_[_Mk8__-_GT2_20T_+_M3.stl" x 1pcz
• "union_motor.stl" x 1 pcz
• "union_motor_largo.stl" x 2 pcz

• "polea3.stl" x 2 pcz

Print parameters

• Used material was PLA and was sufficient but ABS can be used if desired
• Layer Height = 0.2
• Wall thickness = 0.8
• Infill density 20
• Infill pattern grid
• Printing speed 50mm/s for large parts and 30 for small parts
• Support = yes

Step 4: CAR Construction

There are two car models one that has a guide so that the profile rests and
does not move and another that has space to place the magnet, both are assembled the same, then we will see how they are assembled.

The parts for the car are as follows

• 3 “llantas”
• 3 608zz ball bearings
• 3 “bujes”

• 3 M3 screws 20mm long

• 2 M3 screws 9mm long

1. Place the bushings inside the ball bearings
2. glue the tires to the outside of the bearings
3. Insert the 20 mm screws into the body of the carriage until they are tightened
4. The space for the screws is designed so that they enter just, and the rope is formed as the screw enters
5. Bring the bushing closer to the screw and hold it while turning the screw so that it tightens (this is complicated)
6. Insert the 9mm screws
7. The small screws are designed to hold the band
8. A small hole must be made at the end of the belt and the screw is inserted to hold the belt (this step must be done after the pulley has been armed)

Step 5: Pulleys

The pulleys go from one side of the profile, there are two models of pulley one raised and the other is the tensor, they work in the same way.

Parts required:

• Raised pulley ("polea1.stl") 2 Pcz
• Two 20mm screws
• "Body_X_-_[_Mk8_.stl" 1pcz
• "Knob_-_[_All__-_Ver._3.stl" 1pcz
• "Screw_-_[_Mk8__-_GT2_20T_+_M3.stl" 1pcz
• GT2 pulley 10 mm, 20 teeth (with bearing) 3 pcz

• pulley bracket "polea3.stl" 2 pcz

Assembly

1. The screw must be passed through the base of the pulley fastener
2. The pulley is placed inside the fastener and the screw is passed to secure it to the mechanism
3. You must pass the band through the pulley
4. The mechanism is inserted into the pulley body, this can be complicated because it is necessary to make the screw match and pass through the pulley body
5. A nut should be placed on the protruding screw to prevent the pulley from being released

Step 6: ENGINE ARMING

Necessary Parts:

• Nema 17 engine 3 pcz
• Engine support ("union_motor.stl"x 1 pcz" // union_motor_largo.stl" x 2 pcz)
• Engine pulley GT2 pulley 10 mm, 20 teeth (for motor shaft) 3 pcz
• M3 screws

Engine assembly

1. The engine must be placed in its holder
2. The motor must be screwed with M3 screws
3. The pulley is placed on the motor arrow
4. Tighten the pulley with an M3 screw

Step 7: Shaft Assembly

To assemble an axis you need:

• An engine assembly
• Pulley assembly
• Car assembly
• Profile 2020
• GT2 band

Assembly steps:

1. The band must be passed through the pulley
2. The side of the belt that is closest to the cart must be attached, the teeth of the band should see inwards of the profile and the band is stored inside the profile
3. The pulley assembly is placed in the profile until it meets the limit
4. The pulley nut should be loosened as much as possible without removing it from the screw, this is done to give more space to the belt
5. The engine assembly is placed on the other side of the profile
6. The band must be passed around the engine pulley
7. The belt is measured and cut with reference to the carriage screw
8. The motor pulley belt is released to make it easier to attach the belt to the carriage
9. Once the band is joined we must have a circle joined by the carriage
10. The engine assembly is removed from the profile
11. You should place the cart in the profile and make sure that its movement is continuous and smooth
12. The engine assembly is placed in the profile
13. The band is passed around the engine pulley
14. With the pulley nut the belt tension must be adjusted (should not be tightened too much or the motor will not be able to move it)

The band must do the travel as line red line in the photo

Step 8: FULL ASSEMBLY

For final assembly you need:

• Wooden board, should be as straight as possible
• 3 armed axes (2 with long parts and one with simple parts)
• Wooden screws

Steps to assemble

1. The distance between the two high axles must be measured very carefully to make it the same at any point
2. You should mark the places where the screws will be put to make sure that an exact square is formed
3. It is recommended to use a guide to be sure of the distance between these two axes
4. Paste the magnet into the single carriage
5. Before joining the two high axes, the simple shaft must be placed under the two axes
6. Make sure that the single axis profile is inside the high axle guides
7. Screw the high axles to the board and make sure they are securely fixed
8. Make sure the movement of the 3 axes is smooth and continuous

Step 9: Arduino Programming

Arduino IDE must be downloaded

https://www.arduino.cc/en/software

you should open the program"marlin.ino"in the Arduino IDE

the file path is: Marlin-1.1.xmeza sen/Marlin/Marlin.ino

you must choose the device

Tools>>board>>Arduino AVR boards>>Arduino mega or mega 2560 (picture 1)

You must choose the port to which our Arduino is connected

Tools>>Port>>port to which your Arduino is connected (picture 2)

You must compile and send the code to the Arduino, click on the circle that has an arrow at the top left of the screen (picture 3)

You must receive an upload message; this means that the Arduino was programmed correctly

Step 10: Board Connection

The 1.4 ramp shield should be placed on top of the Arduino mega making sure all pins enter properly

For this project only 3 motors will be used, so 3 drv8825 drivers must be connected, placed in the spaces of "Motor X", "Y Engine" and "Extruder 1"

Before placing the drivers, jumpers must be placed to enable micro stepping for each engine (picture 2)

When connecting the driver in your space it is important to check the orientation since if you connect upside down the driver is burned, in the following image you can see that the heatsink must be on the right side and the regulator screw on the left side. (Picture 3)

The motors must
be connected next to their controller, the orientation of the motor is not important only changes the direction of rotation, but the 3 motors must be connected in the same sequence of colors as seen in the last image.

(Picture 3)

The limits switches must be connected on the board, in this step it is important to check which pins are being connected since if they connect making "short" the Arduino will burn Pins marked X-min and Y-min should be used (Picture 4 )

Finally you have to connect the LCD screen to the ramps1.4 board, this is important since this screen has support for SD card and will allow the table to work without being connected to a computer, the display has two numbered connectors, you only have to respect that the 1 connects with the 1 and the 2 with the 2.

The display adapter connects to the board in the pin area, it is very easy to connect it, but you must be careful with the pins so as not to bend them (picture 5)

Step 11: Electrical Connection

All connections must be made without power, it is dangerous to make connections while the source is connected to the power supply.

The 12v to 10-amp source and cables will be used for the electrical connection

The fountain has two inputs, one land and 4 outputs

The inputs are marked as L (line) and N (neutral) these must be connected to a plug with the help of one pin, the pins have one leg larger than the other, the larger leg is the neutral (N) and the small line, usually the sources are protected in case they connect upside down, but it is always better to do the connection well

Two outputs, one positive + and one negative -, must be connected directly to the shield ramps, the shield has 4 inputs, we will use the left part because that feeds the screen and the motors, the right part feeds components of 3d printers that we will not use

The last two outputs will be used to power the LED strip, for this it is advisable to get some adapter so that the connections are welded and the LEDs do not flash.

Before connecting the source to the electric current, it is important to disconnect the motors because if the driver is bad calibrated it can damage the motor

once we disconnect the motors, we can connect the source and proceed to calibrate the current of each driver

a multimeter should be used to measure the direct voltage at two points of thedriver, the voltage must be equal to 0.3, this we can regulate by turning the "screw that is in the driver", our motors work at a current of 0.7 amps, so if we follow this formula the ideal number would be 0.35 but in order not to take risks we will put it at 0.3 amps, so if we follow this formula the ideal number would be 0.35 but in order not to take risks we will put it at 0.3 (PICTURE 4)

Once we calibrate the current, we can now connect the motors and do tests to calibrate it as best as possible.

Step 12: Testing and Calibration

To test we must download the software of "pronterface"

https://www.pronterface.com/

Once we download it, we need to connect the Arduino with the USB cable and connect the source to the electric current.

Once connected, within pronterface we must select the port to which our Arduino is connected and select the frequency of 115200, then click on connect and on the right we should see several messages, the last one must say that the connection was made

Once connected we will be able to send messages to the system to move the engines, it is very important NOT to press the home buttons, because, if the limit switches have not been located, engines clash with the structure

We can start by making a 10mm movement in the X+ direction, this should move the engine connected to the X driver and the Extruder1 (E1) drive, we need to verify that they move in the right direction, in case they move to the other side, it can be solved by turning the motor connectors. (Picture1)

The same must be done with the engine and When pressing the home commands of any axis, this axis will move towards the minimum position of the shaft, there the limit switch must be placed, it must be located just before the carriage collides with the structure, you have to be very careful since if they are located wrong we can damage the mechanism, one switch must be placed at the origin of the x axis and another at the origin of the y-axis

to finish calibrating the motors we must give a command to the engine to move and at the same time lower the current, this will cause the engine to stop moving, at that point we will start to increase the current until the engine moves again, if the engine starts to make a buzz or vibrates, means that the current is very high, this will cause the engine to heat up and stop working, once we calibrate the 3 motors using this method we must load the file "test1.gcode", the file is loaded with the "Load" button and starts with the button "Print".(Picture 2)

This program will make 3 or 4 drawings, we must be monitoring the temperature of the motors as it is very easy to overheater and fail, if this happens you must lower the current of the engine that is heating up.

Step 13: Create Programs

to make our own programs we will use this page:

https://sandify.org/

there you can choose the drawings and make a sequence of drawings.

We must set the length of our machine, which is 400 by 400

When exporting the file we must choose the GCode option (. gcode)

In the “program start code" section we must add this line: G28 X Y

This will cause the X-axis origin of the Y axis to be directed to the origin of the Y-axis before starting the program

Step 14: Carpentry

This section is
independent of the project as everyone can decide to mount their system on the table that suits them best, I recommend the circular shape as it gives you a better perspective, and the LED lights should be pointed towards the sand and preferably not visible from the outside.

Step 15: Tips and Recommendations

Adding a mirror of 45cm by 45cm on the surface where the magnet is going to move, this helps it slide better and gives it a very nice effect since where the magnet passes you see a reflection.

Make sure that the impression quality of the tires ("llanta".stl) is the best possible as this greatly affects the movement of the carriage

Not over-tightening the bands, this can cause the engine to strain too hard.

Use baking soda instead of sand

If you don't get a magnet sphere you can use a metal ball, but you'll need to make a fabric base underneath to prevent the ball from rolling (it produces a lot of noise) and the fabric is to make it move better