Introduction: A Halloween 3D Printing Special: DIY Bleeding Doll Head Candles
Celebrating Halloween with 3D Printing
After years of 3D printing skulls, ghosts, pumpkins, and the usual suspects, we decided to kick things up a notch for this year’s Halloween. We wanted to make something that’s creative, terrifying, and bordering on disturbing with the da Vinci 3D printers that are sitting on our desks!
After a week of getting our hands dirty (and bloodstained), here’s what we have to show for it. Definitely Halloween worthy!
This bleeding baby doll head candle was made with a reusable silicone mold, which was in turn created by a 3D-printed master model. One of our team members suggested making the baby dolls bleed from their eyes. We’re extra wary of this person now.
The best thing? We’ve created a step-by-step DIY home tutorial for making these bleeding doll head candles (or any other model, for that matter).
This entire process can be broken down into 3 stages - 3D printing, silicone mold making, and casting. STL files are included too so you can get started right away!
Supplies
1. 3D printer
(we used the da Vinci Jr. 1.0 A Pro!)
2. PLA filament
3. Clay
4. Mold release spray
5. Gram scale/ measuring cups
6. Silicone and curing agent 7. Utility knife/ box cutter
8. Small pot or saucepan
9. Electric stove or induction cooker
10. Soy wax flakes
11. Red candles
12. Candle wick
Step 1: Step 1: 3D Print the Master Model
3D print the doll head (the master model). It will be used for creating a silicone mold. Quite terrifying already.
Clean and sand (if needed) the 3D print to ensure that its surface is smooth.
Quick Tip:
Working on a home DIY 3D printing project? We’ve got a range of 3D printers that would suit your budget and needs. For this bleeding doll head project, we used the da Vinci 1.0 A Pro to 3D print the doll head! A fantastic 3D printer with an open filament system that supports G-code and laser engraving!
Step 2: Step 2: Create and 3D Print a Mold Box
The mold box will be used for holding the doll head and creating the silicone mold.
The mold box comprises two halves - top and bottom.
Quick Tip:
The dimensions of the mold box are optimized to fit the doll head. If you’re using another master model, remember to resize the mold box to its dimensions!
Each half (top and bottom) of the mold box should be adjusted to slightly more than half of the master model’s height.
Step 3: Step 3: Prepare the Mold Box
Silicone Mold Making (Part One)
We’ll create the first half of the silicone mold!
Place the doll head in the center of the mold box (bottom half). The doll head should be facing upwards.
Start filling the box with clay. Work the clay around the doll head and fill the box up until exactly half the doll head is buried in clay.
Ensure that the clay is even. Use a pen-shaped tool to make holes (indentations) in the clay. These holes will form the ‘keys’ of the mold, which helps to align and lock the two sides of the mold correctly.
Place the other (top) half of the box on top of the bottom one.
Spray the mold release on the doll head and the inside walls of the mold box.
Quick Tip:
Do not make holes at the sides—the wax will spill out during casting!
Step 4: Step 4: Prepare the Silicone
Using measuring cups or a gram scale, mix the curing agent and silicone according to the ratio specified in the instructions. For the silicone we used, the ratio is 50 silicone : 1 curing agent.
Stir slowly and gently to prevent air bubbles from forming. (2 minutes)
Step 5: Step 5: Pour Silicone Into Mold Box
Pour the silicone from high up in a long and thin stream into the mold box. Continue pouring until the highest point of the doll head is covered with 0.5″ of silicone.
Quick Tip:
Tap the mold box gently on your table to further eliminate air bubbles.
Step 6: Step 6: Let Cure
Let the silicone cure for 24 hours.
Curing times will vary depending on the type or brand of silicone used.
Step 7: Step 7: Remove Mold Box and Clay
Once the silicone is set, remove the top half of the box. (This will reveal the cured silicone.)
Gently remove the bottom half of the box. (This will reveal the layer of clay applied in Step 3.) Remove the layer of clay but do not remove the doll head from the silicone. (This will reveal the back of the doll head and the ‘keys’ mentioned in step 3. The doll face is now buried in silicone!)
Step 8: Step 8: Prepare Mold Box
Silicone Mold Making (Part Two)
We will start to create the other half of the silicone mold!
Place the silicone mold with the master model in the mold box again. The back of the doll head should be facing upwards now.
Spray the mold release on the doll head and the inside walls of the mold box.
Step 9: Step 9: Finish Making the Silicone Mold
Repeat steps 4, 5, and 6.
Step 10: Step 10: Remove the Master Model
Remove the silicone mold from the mold box.
Carefully separate the two halves of the silicone mold and remove the doll head.
Step 11: Step 11: Prepare Mold for Casting
Casting (with wax)
Spray mold release on the inside walls of the mold (both halves). Join the two halves together and place the entire mold such that the doll head (empty space) is in an upright position. Use a box cutter to cut a circular opening at the top of the mold. The wax will be poured into this hole later.
Attach the candle wick to the mold by making a small slit at the opening. (The bottom end of the wick should reach somewhere behind and in the center of the two eye sockets)
Use thick cardboard and rubber bands to secure the mold structure for casting.
Quick Tip:
Use more rubber bands to secure the bottom part of the mold.
Step 12: Step 12: Prepare Wax
Place the wax flakes in a metal pot or saucepan. Use an electric stove or induction cooker to heat and melt the wax at a temperature of about 122°F (50°C).
Step 13: Step 13: Pour Wax Into Mold
Pour the liquid wax into the mold carefully until it is about one-third full.
Slowly swirl the liquid wax to ensure that the inside walls are entirely coated with wax. Continue pouring the rest of the liquid wax into the mold.
Step 14: Step14: Allow the Wax to Cool
Let the wax cool completely. Preferably overnight.
Quick Tip:
Top up the mold with more liquid wax as the wax is likely to shrink during the cooling process.
After the wax has set, open the mold and remove the candle. Chills.
Step 15: Step 15: Prepare and Pour Red Wax Into Candle
Use a utility knife/spoon to cut and dig a hole around the wick. Continue digging until the eye sockets are reached.
Similar to step 10, heat the red candles to obtain the red liquid wax.
Pour the liquid red wax into the opening, at an angle such that it won’t flow out of the eyes (not yet!). Allow the red wax to cool. Repeat this process until the hole is almost filled.
Top off the hole with liquid soy wax. Let the wax cool!
Step 16: The Spirit of Halloween and 3D Printing
The bleeding doll head candles are LIT! To be honest, we are still pretty spooked by our own creation. With the reusable silicone mold, we are now starting to make duplicates of the bleeding doll head candles. But ironically, it seems like no one would dare to bring home one of these for Halloween.
Our team is thrilled to have finished a DIY project that made use of 3D printing as a tool for materializing our ideas—we’ve exemplified the spirit of 3D printing and the maker culture!
You can follow the same steps with any other master models! Drop us a message on Facebook if you want to find out more details. Happy Halloween from the XYZprinting digital marketing team!