Introduction: Can Rotating Shelf
.
Step 1: Rough Calculations
After about 30 minutes of google searching I found several plans available for purchase, but where's the fun in buying someone else's design?
Based on cut away pictures of shelves I took a guess at the angles. For the top feeder shelf the angle was set at 8 degrees off horizontal. The lower feeder shelf was set at 4 degrees off horizontal.
To make the cuts, I first used a compound slide mitter saw but had some issues achieving consistent slots. After messing up on several cuts, it was time to work smarter not harder. From the scrap pieces I created templates for the 4 & 8 degree cuts so the table saw could be used and things went much smoother.
Based on cut away pictures of shelves I took a guess at the angles. For the top feeder shelf the angle was set at 8 degrees off horizontal. The lower feeder shelf was set at 4 degrees off horizontal.
To make the cuts, I first used a compound slide mitter saw but had some issues achieving consistent slots. After messing up on several cuts, it was time to work smarter not harder. From the scrap pieces I created templates for the 4 & 8 degree cuts so the table saw could be used and things went much smoother.
Step 2: Adding the Shelves
The shelves are glued using carpenters glue. For additional stability I also stapled the shelves using a pneumatic staples gun.
Step 3: Squaring Things Up
After gluing and stapling the shelves the rotator wasn't quite square. To solve this, temporary braces were added to the top and bottom.
A can stop was the next thing to add on the front. I used the same 1/4" ply used for the shelves
A back was also added using 1/2" ply. There's no need for a top or bottom
A can stop was the next thing to add on the front. I used the same 1/4" ply used for the shelves
A back was also added using 1/2" ply. There's no need for a top or bottom
Step 4: Future Improvements
The shelf templates helped tremendously when it came down to exactly matching the shelf slots. The bottom feeder shelf angle is a bit shallow and doesn't always as feed cans when not full.
On the next set I would like to use 3/8" laser cut ply. This will make the units lighter and create a better fit by using dove tail joints on the sides, back and front. I also plan to increase the lower feeder angle to ensure proper feeding no mater the number of cans.
On the next set I would like to use 3/8" laser cut ply. This will make the units lighter and create a better fit by using dove tail joints on the sides, back and front. I also plan to increase the lower feeder angle to ensure proper feeding no mater the number of cans.