Introduction: DIY Cord Rack
This cord rack is for those who cant mount anything directly to their wall.
The method I devised still uses a backing (such as a wall) for support, but wont affect the surface behind it. You don't need to spend any money for materials to make this, it can be made completely out of scrap. This was built in two hours with a little time to dry. I'm writing these instructions to be less specific about its dimensions, and concentrate more on DIY woodworking techniques.
Construction Tools and Materials
Formica particleboard this was 3/4in thick.
2x4 wood
Long screw bolts
Wood screws 2in. and 3in.
Elmers wood glue
Chop saw
Screw gun
Pencil
Drill bit index
T square ruler
Awl, screw, knife or sharp object
Adjustable crescent wrench
Optional materials (for the aesthetically concerned)
Dowels
Circle cutter that matches the dowels diameter
Kilz primer liquid or aerosol
Wood filler
Sand paper in a Variety of coarseness
Surface guards (for back and bottom)
The method I devised still uses a backing (such as a wall) for support, but wont affect the surface behind it. You don't need to spend any money for materials to make this, it can be made completely out of scrap. This was built in two hours with a little time to dry. I'm writing these instructions to be less specific about its dimensions, and concentrate more on DIY woodworking techniques.
Construction Tools and Materials
Formica particleboard this was 3/4in thick.
2x4 wood
Long screw bolts
Wood screws 2in. and 3in.
Elmers wood glue
Chop saw
Screw gun
Pencil
Drill bit index
T square ruler
Awl, screw, knife or sharp object
Adjustable crescent wrench
Optional materials (for the aesthetically concerned)
Dowels
Circle cutter that matches the dowels diameter
Kilz primer liquid or aerosol
Wood filler
Sand paper in a Variety of coarseness
Surface guards (for back and bottom)
Step 1: Lay Out the Places for the Bolts
Began by measuring out the width of the board, find the center and mark it. On either side put to two marks equidistant from the center. The space between them is arbitrary but Leave plenty of space between the marks so cables won't overlap. Take out the T-square and began transferring the marks downwards.
Take out the awl or sharp object and make a small pit on each of the marks. Then use the screw gun with a small drill bit to make a small 1/4- inch hole on each pit. Change the drill bit to a slightly larger size, but not a size to close to the diameter of the bolt. Drill in to each hole at an up right 45-degree angle. Try and keep the angle consistent so each hole matches the next. Drill right through to the other side of the board; the screw gun will undoubtedly scratch the surface as it punches through.
Find the drill bit that's smaller then diameter of the bolt (exclude the screws thread). The drilled hole should be pretty tight so that the bolts can be screwed in with the wrench.
Take out the awl or sharp object and make a small pit on each of the marks. Then use the screw gun with a small drill bit to make a small 1/4- inch hole on each pit. Change the drill bit to a slightly larger size, but not a size to close to the diameter of the bolt. Drill in to each hole at an up right 45-degree angle. Try and keep the angle consistent so each hole matches the next. Drill right through to the other side of the board; the screw gun will undoubtedly scratch the surface as it punches through.
Find the drill bit that's smaller then diameter of the bolt (exclude the screws thread). The drilled hole should be pretty tight so that the bolts can be screwed in with the wrench.
Step 2: 2x4 Structure
Measure the width of the board; subtract that measurement by 3 inches (the measurement of the two 2x4 feet). Take the result of that equation and cut a piece of 2x4 to that length. The feet on this come out from the board 7 3/4 inches, they could be longer but than its placement on the board will be higher and they'll jet out into the room more. The taller the board is the longer the feet will need to be. The feet on these are cut at a 45-degree angle at a both sides. the top length being 10 3/4 the bottom length being 4 3/4.
Step 3: Assemble the 2x4 Structure
The joints of the 2x4s are put together on a smooth and level surface. First mark where the joints meet by marking the outline of where the large 2x4 meets the leg. Draw an "X"Â in the rectangle to find its center. Drill a pilot hole through the "X"Â. Then press the large piece up against the leg and re-drill the hole so that the pilot little hole is transferred to the other piece. Then widen the gauge the hole to size of the wood screw (with out the thread). Next drill a pilot hole in the large piece 1 1/2 inch deep. Apply a lot of glue on the long pieces end, as well as in the hole and on screws thread. Press the joints together and hold it firmly while driving the screw in to it. Repeat this step for the other joint.
Step 4: Attach Structure to Board
Put the board up against a wall and place the 2x4 structure where it will be attached. With the pencil mark the outline of the 2x4 where it makes contact with the board. Move the 2x4 structure out of the way and mark where two screws will go on each of the legs. Take the board away from the wall and drill a pilot hole through those two marks. Flip the board around a gauge the holes to the screws diameter (always exclude the thread). Take the board a place it against the edge of an open door so that it perpendicular with he ground. Take the 2x4 structure and hold it firmly against the board, then transfer the screw holes to the 2x4, by re-drilling through the back of the board. Take the structure away from the board and drill the holes deeper, the top hole for the 2in. screw was 7/8 in. deep and the bottom hole for the 3in. screw was 2 1/4 in. deep. Repeat this entire step for the other side.
Apply glue to both ends of the 2x4, all of the screw holes and the threading on the screws. Hold the board with one hand while the other screws the structure onto board. Once all four screws are sunk in, lye the board flat on its back to let it dry.
Apply glue to both ends of the 2x4, all of the screw holes and the threading on the screws. Hold the board with one hand while the other screws the structure onto board. Once all four screws are sunk in, lye the board flat on its back to let it dry.
Step 5: Conclusion
I placed this rack against the white Formica display case next to the matching desk and filing cabinet. This turned out to fit in with the Ikea furnishings a lot better than I had imagined. Eventually the boards edge and the support structure should be painted white as well. Also the bolts should be replaced with dowels to give the aesthetic a less industrial look. If it leans forward a little try a cardboard wedge or matchbook beneath the legs. All in all I pleased with this, and my folks haven't complained about the appearance of its shoddy craftsmansh!t either. A possible improvement would be a formica box in the front that stores my extra transformers and battery chargers.