Introduction: Universal IR Remote Switch
This project shows the use of a neat chip that lets you use any IR remote to switch something on-off.
Here I've modified an old non-working General Electric RF remote AC switch to a switch that can be controlled with any IR remote.
My motivation was this, I wanted to be able to turn a light on-off across my bedroom with my DirecTV IR remote. My plan was to use the Aux-1 button, since it's not being used for anything else. I needed some kind of circuit that would recognize the Aux-1 IR signal and activate a relay.
After some searching -- and a friend's suggestion -- I found the simerec.com, SIS-1 chip. I considered using the lamp application circuit that they have on their site, but then I remembered that I had an old GE radio remote control AC switch that I could convert instead. Why would I want to convert something that's already remote controllable? First, the radio remote never worked like it should have. Second, I want to be able to control as much as I can from one remote; In my case, a DirecTV 6-in-1 remote.
So, here's what I did...
Here I've modified an old non-working General Electric RF remote AC switch to a switch that can be controlled with any IR remote.
My motivation was this, I wanted to be able to turn a light on-off across my bedroom with my DirecTV IR remote. My plan was to use the Aux-1 button, since it's not being used for anything else. I needed some kind of circuit that would recognize the Aux-1 IR signal and activate a relay.
After some searching -- and a friend's suggestion -- I found the simerec.com, SIS-1 chip. I considered using the lamp application circuit that they have on their site, but then I remembered that I had an old GE radio remote control AC switch that I could convert instead. Why would I want to convert something that's already remote controllable? First, the radio remote never worked like it should have. Second, I want to be able to control as much as I can from one remote; In my case, a DirecTV 6-in-1 remote.
So, here's what I did...
Step 1: The Original General Electric RF AC Switch
Pictured here is the original General Electric AC switch. In this state, it's supposed to turn an AC device on-off with a small key-chain type RF remote.
Next, I'll cut open the case...
Next, I'll cut open the case...
Step 2: Cut Open the Case
Step 3: Parts Used
The SIS-1 chip is from SIMEREC.com. I got the bundle that had the chip with the IR receiver, but you can use your own IR module, if you've got one (or salvage one out of an old piece of equipment.) The reason I went with the bundle is that this particular IR receiver is wide band, which means that if I want to use a different button other than Aux-1 later on, I can without any problem. So, if you're going to use your own IR module, just make sure that it matches the frequency for the IR remote you plan on using.
The capacitor and resistor are for blocking power supply noise. You don't need them if you are using a clean power source, like a PC power supply, but I figured better safe than sorry.
I'm using a socket because I like to use it instead of a perf/proto-board for a small project like this one.
I decided to use a stereo jack and old headphone cable/plug for the IR receiver so that I could move it around. I really don't need it now because the AC switch will be behind a table that is able to pick up the IR signal when I bounce it off of the ceiling. But if I ever decide to re-arrange things the plug/jack/cable give me more options.
The switch is used to put the SIS-1 into program mode, so that I can teach it the Aux-1 button. I'm going to install the switch so that it's accessible after I epoxy the enclosure back together so that I can re-program the SIS-1 if/whenever I want in the future.
The capacitor and resistor are for blocking power supply noise. You don't need them if you are using a clean power source, like a PC power supply, but I figured better safe than sorry.
I'm using a socket because I like to use it instead of a perf/proto-board for a small project like this one.
I decided to use a stereo jack and old headphone cable/plug for the IR receiver so that I could move it around. I really don't need it now because the AC switch will be behind a table that is able to pick up the IR signal when I bounce it off of the ceiling. But if I ever decide to re-arrange things the plug/jack/cable give me more options.
The switch is used to put the SIS-1 into program mode, so that I can teach it the Aux-1 button. I'm going to install the switch so that it's accessible after I epoxy the enclosure back together so that I can re-program the SIS-1 if/whenever I want in the future.
Step 4: Wiring Plan
Here's how everything will be wired to the chip socket.
Step 5: GE AC Switch Circuit Board
Referring to the image:
1. RF antenna was removed to give more clearance.
2. Ground source.
3. +5v source.
4. Top leg of resistor R5 was de-soldered, so that the SIS-1
toggle output (pin 3 on SIS-1) could be connected. It's
through R5 that the transistor activates the relay.
5. These two lines run to an LED that lights when the relay is
active. I don't want an indicator, so I disconnected it;
However a diode connection is required here for the circuit
to work, so I moved the LED to the back of the circuit board,
so it's out of sight.
1. RF antenna was removed to give more clearance.
2. Ground source.
3. +5v source.
4. Top leg of resistor R5 was de-soldered, so that the SIS-1
toggle output (pin 3 on SIS-1) could be connected. It's
through R5 that the transistor activates the relay.
5. These two lines run to an LED that lights when the relay is
active. I don't want an indicator, so I disconnected it;
However a diode connection is required here for the circuit
to work, so I moved the LED to the back of the circuit board,
so it's out of sight.
Step 6: Wire Is Soldered to R5 and Heat Shrinked
Step 7: Solder Wires and Resistor to Chip Socket
Using the wiring plan shown in step 4, I soldered directly to a chip socket since the circuit doesn't have very many components. This way, I don't have to use a perf/proto board.
Step 8: Drilled Holes for IR Receiver Jack (stereo Jack) and Pushbutton Switch
Step 9: IR Chip Installed
SIS-1 chip is installed, heat shrink applied, IR jack installed, and power wires soldered. The two blue wires will be connected together -- one is from R5 shown in step 6, the other is from the chip/socket assembly.
Step 10: Final Installation
Pushbutton switch is installed and glued, capacitor is installed per the wiring plan of step 4, and soldering is completed.
Step 11: Profiles of IR Jack and Pushbutton
After sealing the case back together, I'll next program the IR chip with my universal remote...
Step 12: Final Product
Here's the final product with enclosure epoxied, IR detector fastened with 3M double-sided tape, and the AC light fixture plugged in.
Programming the SIS-1 to respond to the Aux-1 button of my remote was almost too easy:
1. On the now modified GE unit, I pushed the programming button that was installed in step 10. As expected, the relay activated, and the light came on (this indicates that the SIS-1 is ready to learn the IR code).
2. I aimed the remote and pressed the Aux-1 button, and the light went off (this indicated that the SIS-1 learned the Aux-1 IR code.)
That's it. Now each time I press the Aux-1 button on my remote, the light switches on-off.
Now I don't have to get out of bed to turn my light on-off, and I don't have to keep track of more than one remote, not to mention changing batteries in more than one remote.
I'm planning on installing these chips into a few other items around the house, and I hope to post those projects too!
Programming the SIS-1 to respond to the Aux-1 button of my remote was almost too easy:
1. On the now modified GE unit, I pushed the programming button that was installed in step 10. As expected, the relay activated, and the light came on (this indicates that the SIS-1 is ready to learn the IR code).
2. I aimed the remote and pressed the Aux-1 button, and the light went off (this indicated that the SIS-1 learned the Aux-1 IR code.)
That's it. Now each time I press the Aux-1 button on my remote, the light switches on-off.
Now I don't have to get out of bed to turn my light on-off, and I don't have to keep track of more than one remote, not to mention changing batteries in more than one remote.
I'm planning on installing these chips into a few other items around the house, and I hope to post those projects too!