this is a rough tutorial on making a land paddle to go along with a longboard. I managed to make this roughly under 40 dollars. I used the design of the kahuna stick as my base template and downgraded it's looks to maximize the cost savings while still maintaining it's functionalities.

Step 1: Materials and Tools

Tools and Materials:
1/2 inch wood chisel
1 inch spade bit
38mm hole saw (I did not have the proper tools to make the hole needed to attach the handle, so I improvised. using the proper size hole saw makes the job easier, but if they aren't available, the first 3 tools work fine)
dremel rotary tool just in case I needed it, didn't take a picture
3/8 and 1/8 inch drill bits
circular saw,
drill
2 inch wood screw
1-7/16 inch by 6.5 ft pine dowel ( note: length depends on your height. it is recommended to have the top of the land paddle around chin to nose height while on your longboard, so cut to size. I'm 5'5" and 64 inches worked fine for me)
3/8 by 4.25 inch bolt and nut
2 official size hockey pucks
1.5 inch washers that fit on the bolt. (used to distribute the force on the hockey pucks so the bolt doesn't go through)
I used locktite to keep the nut in place, but you can use a lock washer, nylocks, or double nuts. anything you think will hold the pucks in place while in use. ( consider that you will be applying torque as you push off so something is needed to hold it in place)
wood glue
stain
plastic dip (optional)

Step 2: Drilling the Center Hole Through the Puck

I drilled the hole through the center of the puck using a lathe, but a drill will work.

Step 3: Cutting the Handle and Length of the Land Paddle.

since I made this tutorial after creating the land paddle, I will roughly go through the steps I used. I cut a 4 inch piece of the dowel and created a hole big enough to fit it on the top piece of the rod, I used a drill bit to make a pilot hole through the handle to screw in a 2 inch wood screw. I filled the hole with wood glue glue and screwed in the wood screw.

Step 4: Hole to Bolt on the Washers and Pucks

I drilled a 3/8 inch hole 1 inch from the end of the dowel to attach the washers and pucks. I made sure that the pucks would be sticking out a bit so it can grip the road while you push off.

Step 5: Stain and Plastidip

I stained the dowel and plastidipped the handle for grip. this step is where you customize the paddle to your liking

Step 6: Recommendations and Improvements I Could Think Of

I placed the handle at a slight angle with respect to the puck orientation to make it easier to grab to because it felt weird when the handle was in line with the pucks.

when the pucks wear out in one spot, undoing the bolt and rotating the pucks gives you a new puck surface to use.

a coat or coats of polyurathene will make it more scratch resistant.

multiple coats of plastidip on the handle makes it more resistant to it peeling off.

adding some sort of pin, offset from the center of the puck might help it if your pucks keep coming undone when you use off. I haven't tried this because I haven't had a problem with that so far.

you can drill several offset holes on the puck to be able to rotate the pucks when they wear out. this might compromise the strength of the puck structure, so be careful if making any modifications to it.